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Compiled from Google and Jan.
Seems to have stopped adding to it in '95. Hosted here for your perusal.
From: jan@UG.EDS.COM (Jan Vandenbrande)
Subject: FAQ Intro -- You saw it here FIRST
Date: 1995/05/17
Message-ID: <01HQMEAC80VM000ZYP@UG.EDS.COM>
sender: nobody@cs.utexas.edu
organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw,rec.answers,news.answers
Subject: rec.autos.vw [W] INTRO, FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTION (FAQ)
Summary: Introduction on Watercooled VWs FAQs and where to get info.
From: jan@ug.eds.com (Jan Vandenbrande)
Followup-To: poster
Approved: news-answers-request@MIT.EDU
Archive-name: autos/vw/intro-faq
Rec-autos-vw-archive-name: intro-faq
Posting-Frequency: bi-monthly
Last-modified: 15 May 1995
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
==========================================
Frequently Asked Questions
for
Water Cooled VWs
-- INTRO --
==========================================
rec.autos.vw
Version:
15 Apr 95 = Inception, Derived from faq.vw.general.
15 May 95 = First Release
Initiator's Note: Please feel free to submit any additional info.
Jan Vandenbrande
jan@ug.eds.com (new address)
jan@lipari.usc.edu (school address, works)
See also the list of contributors at the end.
Familiar with: 78R, 81S, 84S, 86GTI, 90G60, 92SLC, 92P
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Copyright Notice (c) -- 1993, 1994, 1995:
All Rights Reserved
The information contained here is collectively copyrighted by the
authors. The right to reproduce this is hereby given, provided it is
copied intact, with the copyright notice inclusive.
However, the authors explicitly prohibit selling this document, any
of its parts, or any document which contains parts of this document.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Index
=====
===============================================================================
FOR THE ATTENTION SPAN CHALLENGED
=================================
You can find some version of the VW FAQs and the VW archives at:
ftp://rtfm.mit.edu/pub/usenet-by-group/rec.autos.vw (Usenet archives)
http://www.umanitoba.ca/KSL/volks/vwhome.html (VW FAQs & Archives)
http://www.metrics.com/vw/vw.html (VW FAQs & Archives)
http://www.cee.hw.ac.uk/~ceegha/cars/faq/tech/intro.html (UK version of FAQs & Archives)
ftp://ftp.lap.umd.edu/Public/vw_archives/ (VW FAQ & archives)
and
New Dimension's BBS.
In utter emergence contact the archive maintainer:
Jan (pronounced "Yahn") jan@ug.eds.com
For more details, and what these funny "://" means see the rest.
Lots of COOL stuff.
PURPOSE:
========
The purpose of this Frequently Asked Question [FAQ] file is to provide a
*short* summary of the resources available pertaining predominantly to
Watercooled [W] VWs, where this information is posted, archived and accessible
to you.
Due to its origin, the FAQs are mostly geared towards the US Market,
where cars based on the Jetta/Golf/Rabbit platforms of all three generations
are the most prevelent.
As a consequence, the focus is mostly on fuel injected cars with
emmission control devices.
The intent is to keep this file short to encourage easy distribution
(some mailers do not allow files above a certain size to be received)
and increase awareness to the VW community of the availability of
these resources.
This FAQ was derivative from the general watercooled VW FAQ
rec.autos.vw volume can be reduced.
The FAQs please:
================
Here is a quick summary. Details follow. What I tried to do here is
dissasociate information with where it is stored and how it can be
accessed.
The following types of (electronic) information are available:
o The Watercooled VW FAQs:
Info FAQ <=== You are reading this file
General FAQ
Technical FAQ
Performance FAQs
o The Watercooled VW archives (includes the FAQs)
o Other Archives (e.g., Team.Net, New Dimension's [ND], AOL, ...)
The originals of these [W] VW FAQs and the [W] VW Archives are being
maintained by the author. However, there are now numerous sites
available that have a portion or a modified form of these archives available.
There are also other archive sites, either on Internet or on other BBSs
archives that contain either VW or other car related material.
The [W] VW FAQs are also periodically posted on rec.autos.vw, rec.answers,
news.answers and automatically updated at the rtfm site at MIT where all
the other UseNet FAQs live.
The following electronic services are available:
To access the info:
o File access to retrieve the archives (ftp, gopher, archie, ftp-by-mail)
o Hypermedia access to home pages (WWW, URL, xmosaic, netscape, lynx)
o Archives on other BBS systems
To discuss and distribute info related to VWs/cars:
o Usenet (rec.autos.vw)
o Mailing lists for discussion of certain topics (e.g., Corrados)
o Other BBS's for discussions and accessing archives
(e.g., New Dimension's, AOL, ...)
Confused?
Most of the archives and discussion groups are avaible on the Internet,
while a few others require you to log into a BBS system directly with a modem
(e.g., New Dimensions).
If you have direct Internet access then you can directly
transfer files, send mail, read Usenet, or browse home pages with a variety
of programs that often come with your System or be bought for a small sum.
Internet is now also available through third party services such as
AOL, Compuserve and others, and they may or may not provide all the
standard Internet services mentioned here.
==============================================================================
ELECTRONIC INFORMATION
==============================================================================
THE V-FILES (aka The Archives)
==============================
This is the original list of archives I am currently maintaining.
Some of these files are not mine but useful copies from other sites
(Those labeled with [ND] are copies from the ND BBS).
These archives live on several sites, and can be accessed in several
different formats. More on that later.
Directory of Archives
---------------------
Body Body & Interior, Crashtest, locks, gauges, wax
Brakes Rotors, Pads, Tools
Electrical Lights, Audio
Engine Engine & Assecories, ECU, liquids
FAQs All FAQs & General Info
Other Tools, How to use
Pictures GIFs, JPEGs (subject to space)
PowerUpgrades Mods to increase power
Suspension Suspension mods, alignment, steering, bearings
Transmission Linkages, Fluids, clutch CVJoints
WheelsTires Tire Impressions (see also faqs)
Body
====
A3_CrashTest = Notes on A3 Crash tests (Europe)
Detailing = Reynolds' Car Care Specialties Notes
Instrument_Lights = Experiences on changing them in A2 Jetta
Rebuilding_Ignition_Switch= Info on how to rebuild ignition switches
SeatBelt_Retrofit = How to retrofit 2-point belts with 3-point belts.
Steering = Email on 3rd party steering wheels
Stuck_Door_Locks = How to unstuck stuck door locks
Swap_Lock_Tumblers = How to swap lock tumblers
Wiper = How to fix ineffective wiper problems
central-lock.repair
fan = Problems with resistor pack/fixes
gauges = How to install
leaks = Water leaking into cars (Jettas/Others)
speedo.fix = How to fix broken gear
wax = Stuff on wax impressions
Brakes
======
Brake_Upgrades = How to upgrade to bigger brakes
Brake_Pads = Comparison of pads (Repco, Mintex, Stock, others)
Rear_Brakes_Tool = Tool required to replace rear pads on newer VWs
Repco_MetalMasters = see Brake_Pads
Electrical
==========
Battery = Email on leak free batteries
Coding_Radios = How to code Heidelberg Radios
DRL_Removal = Notes on how to disable DRL (ND)
Ground = How to analyze and retrofit a new ground (ND)
Lights = Info on improving VW lighting
Radar_Frequencies = Radar frequencies US & Europe
VW_Audio = Stuff on VW Audio issues
antenna = Problem fixes for Fuba antenna
fog_driv_lights = Notes on fog/driving/H4 A2 retrofit lights
mfa.test = Additional functions of the Multi-Function Analyzer
Engine
======
16V_Idle_Probs = ND write up on solving 16V idle problems
A1_Idle_Probs = ND write up on solving A1 idle problems
A2_Idle_Probs = How to diagnose/solve some idle probs
A2_Starer_Removal = Starter Removal procedure
Adj_cam_sprocket = Peter T's report on his adjustable timing sprocket
Anti_Freeze = r.a posting on coolant. What it is etc.
Camshaft_Notes = Notes on camshaft replacement
Carb_Tuning = Old fashioned method of tuning a carb
Carb_to_FI = How to convert to FI
Changing_Belts = Info on swapping Timing Belts
EngineSwaps = Info on swapping engines (inc. VR6)
ExhaustAnalyzer = How to make an Exhaust analyzer with an O2 sensor
Exhausts = Notes on exhausts (Gill, Leis, Stock, SuperT, etc)
HopKits = Notes on Hop Kits (engine shake on uneven roads)
IdleStabilizer = See A2_Idle_Probs
Octane_Ratings = Octane ratings US vs Rest of World
Replacing_Fuel_Filters= For an A-2 car.
Replacing_Points =
Throttle_Switch = Notes on Throttle Switches
VANAGON_Stall = Vanagon stalling problems
a2-cam-follow = How to fix valve ticking in GTIs
heater_core = Problems, recall info
knock_sensor = Knock sensor probs
oil = Problems/causes of low oil pressure buzzer warnings
oil_filter_vw = Dissection of VW vs FRAM oil filter, Mecca filters
oilpressure = How to measure, known problems
oxysensor = How to reset light
splash = How to fix belt squeal on later models
FAQs
====
EU_VW_Tuners = VW tuners in the UK & Germany
Nomenclature = Official Name for things
Slick50 = Renamed faq.oil.slick50
VW_Mechanics = People's opinions on VW Mechanics in the US
faq.bus = Stuff on what bus/vanagon to buy.
faq.oil = All you wanted to know about oil/synthetics
faq.oil.2 = Some notes on M1 & Syntex
faq.oil.slick50 = Articles on PTFE (Teflon tm) oil additives
faq.ra.1 = Usenet rec.auto.* series/policies (Richard Welty)
faq.ra.2 = Automotive Mailing Lists (Richard Welty)
faq.ra.3 = Automotive Articles Archive Server (Richard Welty)
faq.ra.4 = General Driving/Car FAQs (Richard Welty)
faq.ra.5 = General Driving/Car FAQs (Richard Welty)
faq.ra.6 = Setting up mailservers (Richard Welty)
faq.radar = FAQ on radar detectors and the like.
faq.tires.sizes = General info on tires (sizes mostly)
faq.tires.survey = General info on tires (net survey & summary)
faq.tires.winter = Most recent reviews on winter/snow tires from Norway
faq.vw.air = Aircooled faq. I know, it doesn't belong here, but...
faq.vw.general = This file
faq.vw.perf.txt = The performance VW faq
faq.vw.tech = The technical VW faq
Other
====
Tools = How to make manifold clamp removal tool
TorquingBolts = How to toque bolts (or how not to).
Pictures
========
A2W1.TIF = NDs Turbo watercooling routing (N/A)
A2W2.TIF = NDs Turbo watercooling routing 2 (N/A)
BRAKE01.GIF = NDs Installing larger calipers
ELEIGN1.GIF = NDs Installing Electrical ignition (N/A)
ELEIGN2.GIF = NDs Installing Electrical ignition (N/A)
RELAY1.GIF = NDs Facts about relays (N/A)
VR6VSR2.JPG = NDs Picture of VR6 Variable Intake Manifold
VSR01.GIF = NDs Picture of VR6 Variable Intake Manifold
corrado.GIF = Red Corrado in the clouds (N/A)
vwcorrado.gif = Yellow Corrado (N/A)
N/A = not available from Inet Archives.
PowerUpgrades
=============
A1_Audi_Tbody = See A1_Power_Upgrades
A1_Power_Upgrades = Audi TBodys, cams, etc
A2_Power_Upgrades = ECU changes, cams
A3_Power_Upgrades = Chips, cams
Fox_Performance = How to boost performance on a Fox.
G60_Chip_Specs = G60 ECU EPROM Specs.
G60_Power_Upgrades = Summary of available G60 Power Upgrades
GTI_Power_Upgrades = see A2_Power_Upgrades & A3_Power_Upgrades
Intake_Mods = Airbox modifications for more power, sewerpipe
Power_Corrections = Notes on calculating power
Splitfire_Plugs
VR6_Power_Upgrades = Summary of available VR6 Power Upgrades
VR6_Variable_Intake = Description of the VR6 variable intake manifold.
VR6_Variable_Intake_MH= Impressions
VW_Perf_Times = Timing results for performance mods (Cabby, G60, SLC)
Wired_Hotrod = Wired article on performance chips (AT & APS etc)
collins_1 = R.Collins (ex Drake employee) on VW performance
collins_2 (mostly A1 & A2 GTIs)
collins_3
collins_4
collins_5
collins_misc1 = Misc. R.Collins communications.
collins_misc2
Suspension
==========
Boge_probs = Problem with rear Boge shocks
Changing_Shocks = Procedures for A1 & A2 cars
StressBar = Notes on Stressbars
Suspension_Mods = Experiences & explanations.
TieRod_Replacement = Symptoms & solutions.
Van_Syn_Alignment = Vanagon Syncro Alignment Specs (BOOK WRONG)
a1-mounts = Changing A1 motor mounts
a1.struts = See Changing_Shocks
alignment = Shade tree alignment notes
bearings = Analyzing and fixing wheel bearing problems
shocks_jan = See Changing_Shocks
shocks_mark = See Changing_Shocks
Transmission
============
02A_Problems = Problems with G60/SLC/VR6 C & P GLX XMissions
Adjust_Linkages = Notes on adjusting shift linkages
Bearing_Replacement = How to replace wheel bearings
G60_Xmission_Mods = How to improve shifting in Corrado G60s (weight)
Short_Shift_Kit = How to make your own short shift kit
Solid_Shifter = Make your own shifter counter weight
TrannySwaps
Tranny_Specs = Specs of trannys from 78-85
clutch
cv_joints = Notes on removing CV Joints
specs = see Tranny_Specs
tranny.lube = Choices and recommendations
upshift.light = How to fix
WheelsTires
===========
BFG_R1_Tires = Description of BFG R1 Tires (Racing)
CAR_Corrado_Tire_Test = Summary of CAR's tire test on Corrado
tire_size.c = c program to calcuate tire sizes
==============================================================================
DEPARTMENT OF INFORMATION RETRIEVAL
==============================================================================
THE WORLD WIDE WEB
==================
This is the most convenient and most modern way to access the archives,
text, graphics, sounds, movies that is becoming increasingly available.
Here is a list of VW and other car related sites.
Some of these sites offer duplicates of the [W] Archives, or variations
thereof.
To access these sites you'll need programs such as mosaic or xmosaic of NTSA,
Unix lynx, netscape or similar.
The "http://some.address/subdirs/filename" is called the Universal Resource
Locator [URL] and tells those programs where that file is located and
how it should be accessed.
Filenames with a ".html" extensions (for HyperText Markup Language)
contain formatting instruction and links to other sites that are interpreted
by the above programs.
VW Related Sites:
-----------------
Name: VW AG home page, in German
URL: http://www.vw.iplus.com/
Keeper: VAG
Name: VW FAQs & Archives
URL: http://www.umanitoba.ca/KSL/volks/vwhome.html
Keeper: Trev Skil
Submissions: ftp://ftp.umanitoba.ca/pub/KSL/
Name: VW FAQs & Archives
URL: http://www.metrics.com/vw/vw.html
Keeper: Tom Haapanen -- tomh@metrics.com
Name: UK version of VW FAQs & Archives
URL: http://www.cee.hw.ac.uk/~ceegha/cars/faq/tech/intro.html
Keeper: Gregor Anderson -- ceegha@caledonia.hw.ac.uk
Name: VW FAQs & Archives
URL: ftp://ftp.lap.umd.edu/Public/vw_archives/
gopher://gopher.lap.umd.edu/11ftp%3aPublic%3avw_archives%3a
Keeper: sobiloff@lap.UMD.EDU (Blake Sobiloff), 301/405-5936 (Voice)
New address: bsobilof@inet.ed.gov
Name: VW FAQs & Archives
URL: http://weber.u.washington.edu/~hornung
http://weber.u.washington.edu/~hornung/vwfaq.html
Keeper: Michael S. Hornung -- hornung@stein.u.washington.edu
Name: Corrado Home Page
URL: http://ug.cs.dal.ca/~gajewski/corrado.html
Keeper: Andy (gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca,jgajew@ac.dal.ca)
Name: Popular Mechanics Reviews (VW Page & Jetta /// review)
URL: http://popularmechanics.com/popmech/auto/1MAKE.html#Volkswagen
http://popularmechanics.com/popmech/auto/2V_JETA.html
Keeper: Popular Mechanics
Name: Dealer Net
URL: http://www.dealernet.com/vw/vw.html
Name: Funkengroovin Magazine
URL: http://www.vwgroovin.com/groovin/
Keeper: VWGroovin@aol.com
Other VW & Car Related tid bits:
--------------------------------
Name: Porsches
URL: http://tta.com/Porschephiles/home.html
Name: Lots of interesting technical goodies
URL: gopher://tamscc.tamu.edu
Keeper: Wally Strzelec wally@tamu.edu
Name: Other Car Page
URL: http://ganglion.anes.med.umich.edu/NSX/misc/other-pages.html
Name: Goodyear
URL: http://www.goodyear.com/
Name: Team.Net: Auto-X Home Page
URL: http://www.team.net/
Name: Sports Car Club of America (SCCA)
URL: http://www.balltown.cma.com/scca/SCCAToC.html
Name: Tech Service Bulletin Info
URL: http://www.alldata.tsb.com
GOPHER: gopher.alldata.tsb.com
Keeper: Theresa@alldata.com for more information.
Name: Valvoline
URL: http://www.valvoline.com/
Name: Edmunds Car Prices
URL: gopher://gopher.enews.com:2100/11/showroom/edmunds
THE ARCHIVES SITES
==================
These methods will allow you to retrieve archives and other information
in a more manual way. Pictures, movies, etc are usually first compressed
and converted to an ASCII format (uuencode, BinHex, etc) before sent
to you through the net.
ACCESS BY FTP:
--------------
FTP (for File Transfer Protocol) is one of the older methods to
exchange files between machines on the internet.
If you have a Unix or VMS system hooked up to Internet the following
commands should work for you. If however you are accessing Internet
through a MacIntosh/Finder, IBM-type machine, or are accessing Usenet/News
or Internet indirectly through AOL/CompuServe/Others, the procedure may
be different or access may not exist.
However, before contacting either Jan, Blake or Dan, please try to find out
the capabilities of your service first to try to access those files directly.
If neither methods listed work, as a last resort, contact one of us
and explicitely say that you tried but failed.
Note that the server is sometimes down, or time-outs occur due to
net traffic, so please try a couple times before complaining.
We cannot provide you with any help setting up access to Internet, ftp,
or alternate access methods (because we simple don't know either).
A typical ftp session works as follows from the command line (Unix/VMS).
Substitute all items in <> with strings:
ftp
Login as: anonymous
Passwd:
cd
ls
get
....
bye
The Sites
---------
Name: [W] VW Archives Mirror
Adress: ftp.lap.umd.edu (129.2.36.152)
Directory: /Public/vw-archives
Keeper: Blake Sobiloff, sobiloff@lap.umd.edu
Name: Official USENET FAQ-Maintainer archive site
Adress: rtfm.mit.edu
Directory: pub/usenet-by-group/rec.autos.vw
Keeper: FAQ Maintainers
Name: General, Auto-x related and technical archives (see URL)
Adress: ftp.tamu.edu
Directory: /pub/Autox
Keeper: Maintained by Wally Strzelec wally@tamu.edu
Name: Pictures of VWs:
Adress: techie.phys.sfu.ca
Keeper: Unknown
Name: Pictures of VWs:
Adress: ftp.funet.fi == nic.funet.fi (128.214.6.100)
Directory: /pub/pics/vehicles/cars/VW
/pub/pics/gifs/pics/machines/cars/VW
Keeper: Unknown
Name: Pictures of VWs:
Adress: wuarchive.wustl.edu
Directory: /graphics/gif
Keeper: Unknown
Name: Pictures of VWs:
Adress: ftp.uhb.fr (192.134.240.50)
Directory: /transfert
Keeper: rivalin@uhb.fr (Jeff (aka gigi) rivalin)
NOTE: For more info on pictures, formats, etc, check out the FAQ in any of the
UseNet *.graphics.* or *.pictures.* groups.
(warning, these files take up A LOT of space):
ACCESS BY MAIL:
---------------
Send mail to ftpmail@gatekeeper.dec.com, a one line message: `help'
(no quotes of course). No subject... just the one word.
You'll get a large message in reply, describing exactly how to get
files from FTP archives, via e-mail.
New Dimension's BBS
-------------------
An older copy of all the archives are available on ND's BBS.
See further on how to access this BBS.
Note: NewDimension's BBS has its own set of archives and a bunch
of pictures!
Automated E-Mail server: vw@pro-newton.cts.com
------------------------
All the archive files listed in the 12/1/93 edition
of the VW FAQ are there. To use the server, send E-Mail to
vw@pro-newton.cts.com with the request in the subject line (or on the first
line of the body).
Help Sends help
index vw sends the index of the vw/ directory, with short desc.
dir vw lists only the filenames in the vw/ directory.
send vw/file1 [vw/file2...] send specified files
E-Mail here or to danb@pro-newton.cts.com for more information.
NOTE: DO NOT USE THE FILENAMES LISTED BELOW ON THIS SERVER!
SEE THE INDEX. (The names are different because of differences
in operating system filenaming conventions).
Other (e-mail, non-automated):
------------------------------
jan@ug.eds.com has all/most of the originals
Send e-mail & specify the filenames in the body of the message.
Note that we do NOT have an automatic mailer, this is
all done manually and should be used only as a last resort!
Please specify the files EXACTLY as they are spelled,
and give your full e-mail address (it sometimes gets
corrupted).
Additional contributions are welcome.
We will be publishing these tips on a regular basis,
and welcome any additions or edits.
Note that this list does not reflect frequent edits.
*name = has been superseeded by another file
==============================================================================
DISCUSSION GROUPS
==============================================================================
USENET
======
Usenet is one of the largest, world wide set of discussion groups.
There are a variety of car related groups, the most relevant here is:
rec.autos.vw
The FAQs are periodically posted on this group.
There are many programs that provide access to UseNet. On VMS there is
News, Unix: rn, xrn, gnus, through the WWW, and there are readers
for Macs, PCs, etc. AOL, CompuServe and other providers also
provide access to UseNet in some form or another.
Q: How do I post on rec.autos.vw if you do not have usenet access
but do have internet e-mail access?
A: Send your posting to rec-autos-vw@cs.utexas.edu (128.83.139.9)
Note replacement of '.'s with '-'s in group name.
This works for other groups as well.
Q: Where can I get "general" info on cars?
A: See Richard Welty's FAQ postings in rec.autos.* first, or in the archives.
MAIL SERVERS
============
A mail server is a centralized site where all mail messages received
are retransmitted to all the subscribers.
To become member of such a mail server, you typically have to send
a message to either a person or the mail server.
The following is taken from Richard Welty's Automobile Mailing List FAQ:
---- Text from Richard ---
There are a number of electronic mailing lists on the network devoted to
various special automotive topics. Some of these are very specialized,
and at the end of this posting I list a number that are focused on
the activities of specific localized clubs.
The list of available sites is available at:
ftp://ftp.balltown.cma.com/pub/misc/Autos/mailing-lists.text
or at the rtfm.mit.edu site with all the rec.autos.* groups.
It is maintained by Richard Welty (welty@balltown.cma.com).
Most mailing lists provide separate addresses for administrative
queries and for general mail; where separate administrative
addresses exist, I have listed those below, as the general addresses
are not appropriate for inquirys and requests.
Listserv, listproc & majordomo:
these are the three most common automatic list handlers. Listserv
and listproc take similar commands; majordomo is subtly different.
commands for all three should be in the body of the mail message.
a listserv/listproc request to join the honda list should look like
the following:
sub HONDA-L Joe. W. Newbie
note the real name. listserv/listproc will get the email address from the
message header.
a majordomo request to join the italian cars list should look like
subscribe italian-cars newbie@aol.com
note the email address and lack of real name. the email address is
optional; if omitted, majordomo will extract the real name from
the message header (this is often the best way to handle this.)
---- End Text from Richard ---
A quick summary (some from Richard's List):
Audi
(send requests to majordomo@coimbra.ans.net, command is
subscribe quattro)
Porsches
(send requests to porschephiles-request@tta.com)
Vintage VW (Aircooled):
listserv @ sjsuvm1.sjsu.edu (to subscribe)
vintagvw @ sjsuvm1.sjsu.edu (to post)
sroka @ sjsuvm1.sjsu.edu (questions)
To subscribe to the vintage vw mailing list, send a post to:
LISTSERV@SJSUVM1.sjsu.edu, with `subscribe VINTAGVW Your Name' in the
BODY of the message. Much talk about bugs, some of it even mechanical/
technical in nature. All types of air cooled vw stuff.
To subscribe to the vanagon mailing list, send a post to:
listserv@lenti.med.umn.edu with `subscribe vanagon Your Name' in the BODY.
all type of bricks from 1956 (oldest)-1995....Don't know why we spend
so much time talking about old songs, though.......
A NEW one! The THING registry! Unfortunately, I don't know *ANYTHING AT ALL*
about this list, (It's NOT a mailing list, I'm told.) But it's an active
list of owners, for whatever reason such a list would be kept for, I
suppose.....it's:
THING-request@rush.cc.edu with `subscribe thing' in the body.
This list was started 2 Apr 1994 and is run by Gerald Skerbitz
gsker@lenti.med.umn.edu
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jetta gli 8V, 1985-87
majordomo@swiss.ans.net
subscribe gli | subscribe
info gli | info about the list
gli@swiss.ans.net | to send message to the list
gli-owner@swiss.ans.net | Owner
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Corrado mailing list (Owner: Kurt Wiedenhoeft kurtww@saskia.com,
automated Majordomo):
Send a message to subscribe:
subscribe corrado-l
majordomo@teleport.com
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Other BBS's/SERVICES
====================
o New Dimension's Computer Bulletin Board: (408) 980-8830
Standard Modem settings. I use 9600bps.
o PRODIGY: [JUMP]:VW (? never checked this)
o CompuServe: GO VW (? never checked this)
Access to Internet/Usenet exists
Note from Cont Tim Hogard:
GO VW will just tell you all about what VW America wants you to know and
you can't leave messages to people in the know. It is not worth the time.
o AOL: A discussion group exists, access to Internet/Usenet exists
==============================================================================
Contributors (not exhaustive):
------------------------------
Note: Quoted contributions imply possible conflicting pieces of advise
with other contributors.
See faq.vw.general
Mike (mvoorhis@wpi.edu)
Kurt Wiedenhoeft (kurtww@mail.teleport.com)
Richard Welty (indirectly)
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Disclaimer: My employer has nothing to do with this.
Use any info in this posting at your OWN risk.
This is public information and should not be dissiminated
for profit.
--
o ___|___ [\\] | Jan Vandenbrande jan@ug.eds.com
__0 /\0/ /-------\ _ | "For once I'd like to encounter an alien
\<,_ O \\ (_________) .#/_\_. | being that is not immune to bullets"
(_)/ (_) // [_] [_] |_(_)_| | The Brigadier, Dr. Who.
From: jan@lipari.usc.edu (Jan Vandenbrande)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: [W] FAQ -- General {Frequently asked watercooled questions}
Date: 6 Dec 1993 10:35:45 -0800
Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
Lines: 1878
Sender: jan@lipari.usc.edu
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <2dvu21$mr6@lipari.usc.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: lipari.usc.edu
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
NOTE: Thanks for all your contributions. I haven't been able to
integrated them into the FAQ as yet (kind-a busy at work for the moment
+ vacations).
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
==========================================
Frequently Asked Questions
for
Water Cooled VWs
-- General --
==========================================
rec.autos.vw
Date: 1 December 1993
Version:
1 Feb 93 = tool places, other bbs's., Correction on T1/5 cars
1 Mar 93 = Updated recall info
1 Apr 93 = New categorization.
1 May 93 = Updated VIN, Platform types, edits.
1 Jun 93 = Music, GTI origins.
1 Jul 93 = Edits, half hearted index.
1 Aug 93 = Edits, new VIN categorization.
1 Sep 93 = More recall info.
1 Oct 93 = Edits.
1 Nov 93 = VIN # adjustments. Recall info updates. Edits.
1 Dec 93 = Edits.
Initiator's Note: Please feel free to submit any additional info.
Jan Vandenbrande
jan@ug.eds.com (new address)
jan@camhpp12.mdcbbs.com (old address)
jan@lipari.usc.edu (school address, works)
See also the list of contributors at the end.
Familiar with: 78R, 81S, 84S, 86GTI, 90G60, 92SLC, 92P
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Index
=====
General (Info sources, archives, VIN #, Part/Perf places)
Common Problems (Recall info, common VW ailments, Resetting oxy sensor)
Interchanging Parts/Tools (substituting parts & tools)
Fuel Injection (Types used by VW)
Recommendations (people's opinions on VWs over the years)
VW Types (The VW Family)
GENERAL
=======
Q: Where can I get "general" info on cars?
A: See Richard Welty's FAQ postings in rec.autos.* first.
Q: Are there any archives about VW/procedures/technical data?
A: Yes! They are currently being worked on by Jan & Dan & others?
Currently available from:
NEW FTP SITE:
ftp ftp.lap.umd.edu
/pub/vw-archives
FTP Site Keeper: sobiloff@lap.umd.edu
(Pls don't bother him too much)
Procedure:
ftp ftp.lap.umd.edu
Login as: anonymous
Passwd:
cd vw_archives
ls
get
....
bye
Other (e-mail, non-automated):
vw@danix.uucp or vw%danix.uucp@uunet.uu.net = VW archives
(PS, dans@ans.net is Dan's work address, no archives there!)
[jan@ug.eds.com also has a copy/originals?]
Send e-mail & specify the filenames in the body of the message.
Note that we do NOT have an automatic mailer, this is
all done manually!
Please specify the files EXACTLY as they are spelled,
and give your full e-mail address (it sometimes gets
corrupted).
Additional contributions are welcome.
We will be publishing these tips on a regular basis,
and welcome any additions or edits.
Note that this list does not reflect frequent edits.
New ones
Old ones
A3_CrashTest = Notes on A3 Crash tests (Europe)
Adjust_Linkages = Notes on adjusting shift linkages
Anti_Freeze = r.a posting on coolant. What it is etc.
Boge_probs = Problem with rear Boge shocks
Carb_Tuning = Old fashioned method of tuning a carb
Carb_to_FI = How to convert to FI
Coding_Radios = How to code Heidelberg Radios
Corrado_Power_Upgrades = Summary of available G60/SLC/VR6 Power Upgrades
EngineSwaps = Info on swapping engines
ExhaustAnalyzer = How to make an Exhaust analyzer with an O2 sensor
Exhausts = Notes on exhausts (Gill, Leis, Stock, SuperT, etc)
G60_Chip_Specs = G60 ECU EPROM Specs.
*G60_Power_Upgrades= See Corrado_Power_Upgrades
G60_Xmission_Mods = How to improve shifting in Corrado G60s (weight)
IdleStabilizer = How to check/fix IS Valve on A2 cars
Instrument_Lights = Experiences on changing them in A2 Jetta
Octane_Ratings = Octane ratings US vs Rest of World
Passat_restrictor = Remove air intake restrictor for more power (G60, SLC)
Radar_Frequencies = Radar frequencys US & Europe
Rear_Brakes_Tool = Tool required to replace rear pads on newer VWs
Repco_MetalMasters = Experiences with these brake pads
Replacing_Fuel_Filters = For an A-2 car.
SeatBelt_Retrofit = How to retrofit 2-point belts with 3-point belts.
Slick50 = Articles on PTFE (Teflon tm) oil additives
Suspension_Mods = Experiences & explanations.
Swap_Lock_Tumblers = How to swap lock tumblers
Synthetic_Oils = Technical papers on oils
UK_VW_Tuners = VW tuners in the UK
VW_Mechanics = People's opinions on VW Mechanics in the US
a1-mounts = Changing A1- motor mounts
a1.struts = Struts on early Rabbit/Jetta/Scirocco
a2-cam-follow = How to fix valve ticking in GTIs
alignment = Shade tree alignment notes
antenna = Problem fixes for Fuba antenna
bearings = Analysing and fixing wheel bearing problems
collins_1 = R.Collins (ex Drake employee) on VW performance
collins_2 (mostly A1 & A2 GTIs)
collins_3
collins_4
collins_5
collins_misc1 = Misc. R.Collins communications.
collins_misc2
cv_joints
fan = Problems with resistor pack/fixes
faq.ra.1 = Usenet rec.auto.* series/policies (Richard Welty)
faq.ra.2 = Automotive Mailing Lists
faq.ra.3 = Automotive Articles Archive Server
faq.ra.4 = FAQ 2
faq.ra.5 = FAQ 2
faq.ra.6 = Setting up mailservers
faq.tires = General info on tires (draft)
faq.vw.general = This file
faq.vw.tech = The technical VW faq
fog_driv_lights = Notes on fog/driving/H4 A2 retrofit lights
gauges = How to install
gli_tranny = How to change fluid etc
heater_core = Problems, recall info
knock_sensor = Knock sensor probs
leaks = Water leaking into cars (Jettas/Others)
mfa.test = Additional functions of the Multi-Function Analyser
oil = Problems/causes of low oil pressure buzzer warnings
oil_filter_vw = Dissection of VW vs FRAM oil filter
oilpressure = How to measure, known problems
oxysensor = How to reset light
shocks_jan = Shock changing procedure (Jan's version)
shocks_mark = Shock changing procedure (Mark's version)
specs = Some engine specs.
speedo.fix = How to fix broken gear
splash = How to fix belt squeal on later models
tranny.lube = Choices and recommendations
upshift.light = How to fix
Q: Are there other VW related mailing lists or bulletin board systems?
A: Yes! See Richard Welty's occasional postings on that. In case you missed
them, here are a couple of relevant ones.
Audi (send requests to quattro-request@aries.east.sun.com)
Autocross/Solo (send requests to autox-request@hoosier.cs.utah.edu)
BMW (send requests to bmw-request@cabot.balltown.cma.com)
Porsches (send requests to porschephiles-request@tta.com)
Rally (send requests to rally-request@stratus.com)
VW (send requests to info-vw-request@ames.arc.nasa.gov
Note r.a.vw replaced this mailing list, though it still exists)
PRODIGY: [JUMP]:VW (? never checked this)
CompuServe: GO VW (? never checked this)
Note from Cont Tim Hogard:
GO VW will just tell you all about what VW America wants you to know
and you can't leave messages to people in the know.
It is not worth the time.
Q: Where are the VW GIF/JPEG sites (pictures)?
A: There are many anonymous ftp sites with pictures.
For more info on pictures, formats, etc, check out the FAQ
in any of the UseNet *.graphics.* or *.pictures.* groups.
The following have pics of VWs (warning, these files take up ALOT of
space):
ftp.funet.fi /pub/pics/gifs/pics/machines/cars/VW
wuarchive.wustl.edu /graphics/gif
INet Addresses:
128.252.135.4 wuarchive.wustl.edu
128.214.6.100 nic.funet.fi (same as ftp.funet.fi)
Q: What does [W] and [A] mean in the UseNet posting headers?
A: [W] = Watercooled subjects.
[A] = Aircooled subjects.
Please use this to allow people to filter out irrelevant articles.
Q: What are the best manuals for my car?
A: Robert Bentley Manuals: "Official Factory Manuals" series.
Available from the publisher (800) 423-4595, (216) 572-0725 (?)
1000 Massachusetts Avenue, Cambridge, Massachusetts 02138
(617) 547-4170
VW & other US mailorder houses.
Currently NOT available outside North America.
Covers ONLY cars sold in the US & Canada.
NOTE according to (rgolen@UMASSD.EDU) there are TWO types of
Bentley manuals:
VW Service Manual= Aimed for amateurs (us!)
VW Repair Manual= Geared for experienced/professionals
John Muir: "Complete Idiot Guide to keep your water cooled VW alive".
(Rumored to be out of print, A-1 cars only, but has lots of
advice/procedures that are still valid today)
John Muir Publications Inc., Box 613, Santa Fe, NM 87504
(800) 888 9079 (?)
or try Classic Motorbooks, or KdF Enterprises?
Greg Raven: "Volkswagen Water-Cooled, Front-Drive Performance Book"
Available from US mailorder houses.
Haynes: "Modify Your Golf/GTI" (available from Rapid Parts)
"VW Service Manual".
Also available outside North America.
Chiltons: "", not recommended (?)
Caveat: For regular service, my personal [jan] preference goes to
Bentley (old style), Muir (A1 cars), Bentley (new style).
For newer cars, I look in the older books which gives detailed
instructions, than turn to the new style Bentleys and try to
figure out what to do there.
Back issues of EuroCar/VW&P & ?? (=British car mag) also
contain detailed tech procedures that may be of use.
I have both Haynes and Chiltons, and find them entertaining
but never use them.
Naturally, your preferences may vary.
Bentley: "Bosch Fuel Injection and Engine Management", Charles
Probst, available from Classic Motorbooks and others.
More of a specialized book.
Q: Can I get VW Service Bulletins?
A: YES, and you can get the index for free!
Pick a flyer from your VW dealer or call: (800) 544 80 21
The bulletins are referred to by a "V" group number - year - index
e.g., V13-91-06
The actual bulletins cost $4.00 for the first, US$2.00 for each
subsequent one. You can also order a yearly subscription, in
which case they also send you a library of all microfilmed repair
manuals.
Q: What periodicals are worth reading and are relevant to VW?
A: US: European Car (formerly VW Porsche): Argus Publishers Corp,
P.o. Box 452, Mt. Morris, IL 61054-0452
800-877-5602.
Most relevant mag in US, [W-VWs & other European cars]
Hot VWs [A some W]
VW Trends, McMullen Publishing, P.O. Box 70015, Anaheim, CA 92825-0015
(714) 635-9040, $18.95 US/year, [A some W]
UK: VW Motoring, Stoke Orchard, Cheltenham, GL52 4SX. UK. [A & W]
+ 44 242 676020 (For the non-technical, this is the telephone number)
24 UKPound/year
Volkswagen Audi Car, Autometrix Ltd, Todington, Bedfordshire, UK.
+ 44 5255 4019 [W mostly]. Good mag but pricey.
40 UKPound/year
D: Auto Motor und Sport, DPV, Postfach 10 16 02, 2000 Hamburg 1, Germany,
--general info but great...if you know German
Gute Fahrt
AUS: ????, GPO Box 257c, Melbourne, Vic. 3001, Austrailia
SF: Kupla (for Tom's sake ;->, probably Finnish, this list is world wide)
Q: Are there any VW clubs?
A: Yes. Here's the address:
Volkswagen Club of America, Inc.
P.O. Box 154, Dept. P
North Aurora, IL 60542-0154, USA
President: Shell Tomlin, 1554 Roanoke Ave., Aurora, IL 60506, 708 896-2803
Vice Pres: Phil Williame, 4442 N. McVicker, Chicago, IL 60630 312 283-7323
Secretary: Barbara Boltz, 11007 S. Harding, Chicago, IL 60655 312 239-2685
Membership: Lynida Tomlin 1554 Roanoke Ave., Aurora, IL 60506, 708 896-2803
Canadian Volkswagen Enthusiasts Association
CVEA
P.O. Box 2137
Kingston, Ontario
K7L 5J9, Canada
(613) 544 4412
SCCA, (General Car Club), USA, (800) 255 5550
Q: What's A-1 and the A-2 designations mean I see all the time?
A: The A-1 and A-2 designate the platform/generation the car is
based upon.
A-1 (or Mark-1) were the first generation water cooled VWs such
as the Rabbit/Golf I, Jetta I, Cabriolet, and Scirocco I & II.
A-2 based VWs are the Golf II, Jetta II, and the Corrado.
A-3 is the latest platform, which includes the Golf III, Jetta III/
Vento, and the yet to be released new Cabriolet.
VWs based on the same platform share many of the same components such
as suspension components (rear torsion beam, sway bars).
This however does not imply that the engines are the same within
one platform.
Within one platform, many different engines are available (mostly
Europe...the old Golfs came with anything from a 1.1l to an 1.8l,
including diesels), and accross different platforms you may also
find many of same engines (the 2.0l 16V is used in the A2 Golf GTIs and
the B3 Passats).
Therefore similar engines will share similar parts, and certain
improvements from one platform can often be transformed to the other
(e.g. exhaust manifolds from an 81 GTI to an 84 S).
There's a complete list by Tom H at the end. It includes Euro & US models!
Q: What is captured in the US Vehicle Identification Number?
A: Sample US V.I.N. :
Breakdown of VIN number for Volkwagen Products up to Model Year 1989
(actually later than that (Ed.))
[From: Joe Angerstein, jochena@bjsys.ersys.edmonton.ab.ca]
FIELDS IN THE VIN
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17
_______________________________________________________________________
|__|__|__| |__|__|__|__|__| |__| |__|__|__|__|__|__|__|__|
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
FIELD FIELD FIELD FIELD
1 2 3 4 5 6
_________ _________ ___________ __________
|Manufac'r| |Bodystyle| |Engine Type| |Restrained|
| Make | |by Model | ----------- | System
--------- --------- -----------
___ Passenger Listed by ___
_ |1VW| US Vehicles increasing |0| Active
| |___|Pass.Car ---------- horsepower ___
| ___ ___ available |2| Passive-fixed
|- |WVW| Europe |A| 2-dr Economy for each ___
| |___|Pass.Car ___ model |4| Motorized
| ___ |B| 2-dr Custom A - lowest ___
|- |WV1| Europe ___ H/P Gas |9| Passive
| |___|Truck |C| 2-dr Deluxe
VW- | ___ ___ G - Lowest
|- |WV2| Europe |D| 2-dr Sports H/P Diesel
| |___|MPV
| ___ ___
|- |3VW| Mexico |E| 4-dr Economy
| |___|Pass.Car ___
| ___ |F| 4-dr Custom
|- |9BW| Brazil ___
|___|Pass.Car |G| 4-dr Delux
___
Audi -|WAU| Europe ___
|___|Pass.Car |H| 16V / Turbo
___
|K| 2-dr Sedan
___
|P| 4-dr Sedan (Base)
___
|R| 4-dr Sedan (Upgrade)
___
|T| 4-dr Sedan (Upgrade)
Transporter /
Vanagon
___
|U| 2-dr Pickup
___
|V| 3-dr Double Cab Pickup
___
|W| 3-dr Del'y Van
___
|X| 3-dr Window Van
___
|Y| 3-dr Bus
___
|Z| 3-dr Camper
----
FIELD FIELD FIELD FIELD
7 8 9 10 11
_______ _____ _____ ____________
| Model | |Check| |Model| |Plant of |
------- |digit| |Year | |Manufacturer|
____ ----- ----- ------------
|15| VW Cabriolet calculated A=1980 A = Ingolstadt
____ per B=1981 B = Brussels
|1G| VW Jetta NHTSA C=1982 E = Emden
____ Code D=1983 G = Gratz
|1G| VW Golf(89 1/2 MY) E=1984 H = Hannover
____ VW ex Mexico F=1985 K = Osnabrueck
|1H| VW Golf/Jetta(93 MY) G=1986 M = Mexico
(inc Mexico?) H=1987 N = Neckarsulm
____ J=1988 P = Brazil
|16| VW Jetta(88 MY) K=1989 S = Stuttgart
____ L=1990 V = Westmoreland
|17| VW Golf/GTI(88 MY) M=1991 W = Wolfsburg
____ N=1992
|24| VW Transporter P=1993
(Pickups, Multivan) R=1994 (?)
____ S=1995
|25| VW Transporter (Vans) T=1996
VW Vanagon
____
|30| VW Fox
____
|31| VW Passat
____
|32| VW Quantum
____
|50| VW Corrado
____
|53| VW Scirocco
____
|70| VW Eurovan
____
|43| Audi 5000 / older
____
|44| Audi 5000/100/200/V8
____
|4A| Audi S4/100CS/V8
____
|81| Audi 4000
____
|83| Audi 4000
____
|89| Audi 90
____
|85| Audi Coupe GT
____
|8A| Audi 90
____
|8B| Audi Coupe
----
FIELD
12,13,14,
15,16,17
_____________
|Sequential |
|Production No|
-------------
The old one... Haven't reconciled the two yet:
This is obviously one from a '90 German build VW Corrado build at
Karmann, with the second strongest engine (G60) and motorized belts.
Country of Origin Check Digit
/ / Model Year
/ / /
W V W D B 4 5 0 8 L K 0 1 2 3 4 5
Digit # 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
\
Assembly Plant
Code Country of Origin Code Model Year
1 United States B 1981
2 Canada C 1982
3 Mexico D 1983
4 United States E 1984
6 Australia F 1985
J Japan G 1986
K Korea H 1987
L Taiwan J 1988
S England K 1989
V France or Yugoslavia L 1990
W Germany M 1991
Y Sweden N 1992
Z Italy P 1993
B Brazil (?)
Code Digit #3: Vehicle Type Code Digit #4: Line & Body Tp
W Passenger Car A 2 Door
1/2 Truck B Sedan 2 door
F Hatch Back 2Dr (?)
K Pick Up
Code Digit #5: Engine M Sport Truck
N Station Wagon
X Combi
Y Bus
Z Camper
Code Digit #6: Restraint Type
0 Active
4 Motorized seat belts
9 Passive
Code Assembly Plant (Mfg specific) Code Digit #7-8: Car Type
K Osnabrueck/Karmann 15 Convertible
V Westmoreland 16 Jetta
W Wolfsburg 17 Golf II
E Emden 53 Scirocco I
H Hannover 32 Quantum
A Ingolstadt 50 Corrado
B Brussels (?) 78 Passat
G Graz
M Mexico
N Neckarsulm
P Brazil
S Stuttgart
Y Spain
NOTE: The letters "I" and "O" in the Model Year table above have been
skipped, probably to avoid confusion with the digits "1" and "0"
respectively.
NOTE: Many other nation use the Chassis number only, and they can often
be found stamped somewhere on the car's body, usually in the engine
compartment. The format is very similar. Example 81 S:
W V W Z Z Z 5 3 z B K 0 1 2 3 4 5
Q: What are VWs OEMs (Original Equipment Manufacturer)?
A: VW makes cars, which is an assembly of components, but not all
components are made by VW. In fact, VW makes mainly the body and
the power train, the rest they buy from elsewhere.
The OEM parts can often be had for less than buying the same VW part.
Most of the ones listed below will have a VW part number, but
are also to be had directly from the OEM w/o the VW part number.
For example MANN makes VW filters with the VW label, but the
same filter also exists with the MANN label.
In other cases, VW uses parts w/o restamping or hiding the OEM
name for marketing reasons, e.g., Recaro seats, BBS rims.
The OEM suppliers are (not exhaustive, changes frequently):
M.A.N.N. Oil & Air Filters
Fichtel & Sachs Clutches, shocks on some cars
Gillet Exhaust (at least at some point)
Leistritz Exhaust (for some--usually VR6 cars)
Loebro CV Joints
Bosch Many of the electronic components (e.g. Alternator)
Fuel, other filters, FI, antenna
Fuba Roof mounted antenna (flexible one)
FAG Brake components, master cylinders
Hirschmann Antennas, some VWs
Motorola Alternator in some US made cars
Hella Lights, markers, bulbs
Boge Shocks & components
Beru Electrical components (rotor, cap)
Sofica Radiators, Heater cores (French), prone to leaks
Kesley-Hayes Front Brake calipers most > 81 cars
Teves Rear disc brakes (GTIs, GLIs, Corrado)
Girling Front disc brakes < 81, F&R on Passat, Rear 16V GTIs
Ronal Alloy rims some Audis/VWs
ATE Brake components (master cylinder)
Note: ATE = Albert Teves, div IT+T
VDO,MotoMeter Gauges
Boka Waterpump, Mexican made VWs
BBS Rims, some cars, not restamped
Recaro Seats, some cars, not restamped
Sekurit Windshield, windows
Hengst Oil filters VR6
Glazurit/Hoechst/BASF Brand of paint used.
Unclear who produces water based paints in newer VWs
TRW Power steering pumps
Matsushita Heidelberg (VI & others) radios.
Continental Drive Belts
Q: Where can I get cheaper/used parts? (Note many sell the same
OEM parts VW uses. Ask for them! rather than another brand).
A: BMVW: 404-964-1376 (general), 404-969-1729 (recycled)
Campbell/Nelson(WA): 800-552-2999
Euro Carparts (UK): +44 81-963-0555 (finally an European entry!)
Recycled VWs (MI): (313) 373-2300, Used VWs only junkyard, H2O VWs mainly
Wolf Sport (CA): (415) 924 83 12 (info), (800) 34-BUNNY (orders)
(415) 924 79 70 (fax)
NEW/CHEAP:
J.C. Whitney (IL): 1917-19 Archer Avenue, P.O. Box 8410,
Chicago Illinois 60680
(Note! Some parts are NOT factory replacements.
Catalog prices != Actual, catalogs are free.
Quality varies. Be aware of shipping/trucking costs. JV)
Rapid Parts (NY): 321 Route 59,P.O. Box 371, Tallman, NY 10982,
Store Hours M-S (EST/EDT) 9 am - 6 pm
914-357-6611 (lots of cheap replacement parts)
WholeSale Import Prts (WA): (206) 643 33 50
>>>OTHERS/MAILORDER?
Q: Where can I get performance parts? Who are the VW tuners?
Where I can I get more info on products?
A:
AMSOIL (?): Oil, 1 micron Filters.
715-393-7101
APS (CA): Automotive Performance Systems,
1464 N Hundley, Anaheim: (714) 630 11 44,
(800) 423-3623 (orders only)
Maker of Neuspeed products (very high quality)
Parts usually fit in stock positions.
Sales people sometimes rude.
Main Technician: Aaron Neuman.
AutoBahn Designs: Body parts & other
2900 Adams Str, Suite B27, Riverside, CA, 92504
(909) 351 95 66
AutoTech (CA): 32240 E Paseo Adelanto, San Juan Capistrano:
(714) 240 4000 (tech), (800) 553 10 55 (Order)
Good products in general.
AutoThority (VA): 3769-B Pickett Rd, Fairfax, VA 22031
703-323-0919 (Power Chips)
Bellevue Motor Sports: 13500 Bel-Red Rd., Bellevue, WA 98005
(206) 747 FAST
Bilstein (CA): 8845 Rehco Rd, San Diego, CA 92121
(619) 453 77 23; (203) 265 28 54
Bosch/Blaupunkt: (800) 323 1943; 312.865.6444; 312.865.5488
2800 S 25th Ave, Broadview, IL60153
Castrol (NJ): Oil Co., (201) 633 22 00
Drake: Do they still exist?
Eurorace (CA): 190th near Hawthorne Blvd, Redondo Bch, CA
(800) 722 86 78; (310) 376 02 47.
NOTE: Occasional troublesome.
EuroSport (CA): 4879 E La Palma, Anaheim, CA 92807,
VW performance mods. Ask for Raffi.
(714) 693 08 30, (800) 783 38 76, (714) 693 08 64 (fax)
Halsey Import Parts: 7721 N.E. Halsey Portland, OR 1-800--792-0081
JT Automotive (CA):Sells ABT parts
8811 Garvey ave. Unit 101, Rosemead, CA, 91770
(818) 573-8036, (818) 573 85 27 (fax)
MECA Cooling Company: 255 Route 41 North, Sharon, CT 06069
(203) 364-5130, Fax: (203) 364-0888
Sell propyleen glycol & special oil filters.
New Dimensions (CA): Shop & Parts (Chris Lagatuta)
2240 De La Cruz Blvd, Santa Clara, CA, 95050
800-637-2781, 408-980-1691, 408-980-1697 (fax)
Computer Bulletin Board (408) 980 88 30
Northern Imports: Any experiences with these guys as yet?
Mobil (PA): Oil, (800) 662 45 25
OilScan (??): Kit to perform oil analysis for about US$20.
PlainWrap Perf (CA): Discount Neuspeed parts,
7603 Firestone, Downey, (310) 608 12 43 (orders)
1111 Walnut Str, Compton (warehouse) (310) 604 09 70
(Levin Bldg, ask for Greg or Steve)
Note that their actual office is in Compton
Rapid Parts (NY): 914-357-6611
Knowledgeable and good.
RedLine (CA): (Synthetic Oils)
3450 Pacheco Blvd. Martinez, CA 94553
(510) 228-7576, (800) 624-7958
or in Canada
Priddle Motorsport, Scarborough, Ontario
416-286-6544, fax: 416-267-3227
Ron's Parts Inc: Parts & shop. Drops VR6's into Golfs.
#6-#7 1610 Langan Ave, Port Coquitlam, BC V3C 1K6
(604) 944 04 94, (604) 944 17 97 (fax)
SuperChips Inc: Sells Power Chips (8V, 16V, VR6).
1958 N. County Rd 427, Longwood FL, 32750,
(407) 260 08 38, (407) 260 91 06 (fax)
Synthoil (ID): Oil. (800) 843 7733 (order), (208) 336 8600
TechTonics (OR): P.O.Box 295, Sheridan, OR 97378,
(503) 843-2700, (503) 843 3933 (fax)
Maker of performance parts.
VDO/YAZAKI Co.: 980 Brooke Rd, P.O. Box 2897, Winchester, VA
(703) 665-0100 FAX (703) 662-2515
455 Welham Rd, Box 8700, Barrie, Ontario, Canada L4M4V3
(705) 722-6400 FAX (705) 722-4407
VW Motorsport (D): Ikarusallee 34, 30179 Hannover, Germany
05 11 / 6 74 94 22, 05 11 / 6 74 94 88
05 11 / 63 40 88 (?)
Zender (NC): Body parts & performance parts
700 Pressley Rd., Charlotte, NC 28217
(704) 525 05 39, (800) 832 24 11
In the UK, see UK_VW_Tuners in the VW archives.
Q: Where can I get special VW tools?
A:
Assenmacher Specialty Tools: 6440 Odel Place,Boulder CO 80301,
(303)530-2424, toll free (800) 525 29 43,fax 530-4720
Griot's Garage: 1-800-345-5789
Mac Tools:
Schley Products: (Tools) 5350 E. Hunter Ave, Anaheim Hills, CA 92807-2053
(714)693 76 66
Sears: tranny drain plug wrench (hex, 17mm)
Snap-On Tools:
S&K Tools:
Zelinda Machine Tools Corp, 66-02 Austin St, Forest Hills NY 11374,
(718)896 22 88
Caveat: Often a suitable replacement for these tools can be easily made.
MAILORDER RENTAL
----------------
Recycled VWs (MI): (313) 373-2300
>>>OTHERS/MAILORDER?
Q: What are VW's related numbers and addresses?
A: VWoA = (800) 822 VW US or (800) 822 89 87
(800) 544 80 21 for service publications (see above)
Pres. Bill Young | 3800 Hamlin Rd VWoA Auburn Hills MI 48326
Dr. Ferd. Piech | Postfach VWAG-TK-24 3180 Wolfsburg I Germany
Volkswagen Canada INC, 1940 Eglinton Avenue East, Scarborough ON, M1L 2M2
Canada, 416-288-3000, Fax: 416-288-3298, Telex: 06-963588
Guaranteed Mobility/Roadside Assistance Program,
refere to the owners warranty manual for further information
(USA and Canada only):
Volkswagen: (800) 263-7601
Audi: (800) 461-2834
VW Protection Plus Program (for 93+ VWs):
For more info call: (800) DRIVE VW
The address of the "VW World" publications/subscription dept.
(free for new VW owners, 20US$/7years for others):
Volkswagen World Headquarters
POBox 2012
Bloomfield Hills, MI 48303-2012
VW Mobility Access Program (disability): (800) 444 89 87
Q: What does 'Fahrvergnuegen' mean (current commercial jingle in NA)?
A: Fahrvergnuegen (with ue=u") means 'pleasure of driving', and VW claims
it can only be experienced in a VW. I think most of us could find
similar pleasure in a 911 Turbo, though :-).
Q: Who did the music on the US/Canada VW commercial?
A: "Harry's Game" from the album "Anam" on Atlantic Records
by the Irish group Clannad.
Q: What does GTI, GLI and so on mean?
A: L = Luxe (base model)
LS = Luxe Special, couple more do-dads
GT = Grand Tourisme, better equiped &
usually a larger engine than the "L" series
GL = Grand Luxe (geared for more luxury), basically == GT
GTI/GLI = Originally, the fuel injected version of a GT/GL
which means it produced alot more power. With most cars
FI, the GTI/GLI designation means a more powerful engine
in a GT/GL model, sometimes also with a better suspension.
Note that originally, GLI != Jetta, as the case in the USA.
SL = Serie Limite' (limited series), like the Karmann series in US
Really a variation on a GT.
GTX = Same as GTI but used in Europe and elsewhere.
G40/60 = GT version with VWs G-type supercharger. The number
is the width of the G-charger (lader in D) coil in millimeters.
For those who aren't aware, the G40 is used on some Polos,
the G60 on Passats and Corrados.
VR6 = Cars based on the new staggered 6 cylinder engine
(in-line-V-6).
SLC = Sport Luxury Coupe, the VR6 equiped Corrado in the US.
Originally, all European VWs were carburated, except those with the
"I" or "i" and a few rare cases with an "E" for "einspritz", designation
which had a more powerful fuel injected engine, a "GT" set-up,
and some more sporty equipment (suspension, guages).
In the US, VW switched over to FI around 78, and in Europe a bit later
(with mono-throttle FI) which meant that all cars really counted as
"I" models.
GTI/GLI now just means that the car has a more powerful engine and a
sportier set-up.
Note also that the US, only gets the two top of the line VWs
from their larger mass produced series (but not the Polo).
Certain special models, such as the Golf G60 Synchro, the US will
never see, and it is currently debatable whether the VR6 Golf
will ever make it here.
In Europe, VWs came with anywhere from 1100, 1300 to
2900 cc engines. The US never saw the 1100 & the 1300's and only sees
a slightly scaled down version of the 2900.
COMMON PROBLEMS & RECALLS
=========================
Q: How do I obtain NHTSA (Recall) information (USA)?
A: Call (800) 424-9393 (selection menu 1-2-)
They have info on: 1) Recall Info on cars
2) Child Safety Seat Recall
3) Crash Test Report
4) Tire Quality Grading
5) Other Safety Info
6) Rear seat retrofit kit
9) Repeat menu
Note: The above service is TERRIBLY inefficient...after 3 tries I still
have not received the info I requested on my Corrado.
I guess the person there can't read or write.
A Corrado is not a Cabriolet. Makes you wonder how many other
morons work there. [Jan]
Q: What are the known defects for the VW product line?
A: Following is an unverified and incomplete list.
The ????'s indicate unconfirmed or second hand info.
Recalls are mostly for the US/Canada.
Mostly > 1980 model years are covered.
RECALLS:
========
From: jochena@bjsys.ersys.edmonton.ab.ca, additions from "old list"
by Jan (still needs a bit of reformatting).
Summary of some recall campaigns, service actions, pre delivery campaigns
for volkswagen models. This may not apply to some vehicles in CANADA or
the United STATES, as some campaigns are not implemented in the respective
countries. This list may NOT be ACCURATE, for the correct information always
refere to you local dealer, who will be able to check for any outstanding
campaigns for vehicle.
Please note, that the biggest problem for any manufacturer is the notifcation
of the owners. Please advise them of the purchase of the vehicle, if the
vehicle is used from a non VW dealer or private source and any
addresse changes. Again, your local dealer is more then willing to help you
in this matter.
Type YY FROM/TO VIN DESCRIPTION CODE DATE
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
FOX
----
Fox 87 9BW--030-HP000001/ Replacement of crankshaft PM 12/87
9BW--030-HP026007 pulley
Fox 87-89 9BW-A030-HP000001/ Inst. of steering wheel QD 04/89
9BW-A030-KP009988 spring retainer + lock nut
GOLF
-----
Golf 85 1VW--017-FV007583/ Checking dust sleeves NJ 06/85
1VW--O17-FV017394 of front brake caliper
Golf 85 1VW--017-FV000001/ Replacing front seat belts MP 05/85
1VW--017-FV003370
Golf 85-87 1VW--017-FV000001/ Inspect/replace EGR valve PD 04/87
1VW--017-HV036149 on vehicles with auto transmisson
Golf 86 1VW--017-GV033771/ Replace fuel transfer pump + PC 07/87
1VW--017-GV047000 filter
Golf 87 1VW--017-HV032808/ Replace filler neck, sending PA ??/??
1VW--017-HV054650 unit and gasket
Golf 85/86 1VW--017-FV000001/ Replacing fuel tank assembly NV 06/86
Diesel 1VW--017-GV033970
Golf/Auto 88 1VW--017-JV000001/ Installation of starter PV 06/89
MOD 17----63 1VW--017 JV017457 support bracket
Golf/GTI 85/86 1VW--017-FV000001/ Replacing fuel tank assembly NV 06/86
GAS 1VW--017-GV033970
GTI 86 1VW--017-GV000001/ Check torque of rear NZ 10/86
1VW--017-GV074477 axle bracket bolt
Golf 88-92 SK Recall Fuel hose & clamps replacement SK
Cars equiped with Digifant
GTI 90-92 SC Recall California, Knock sensors and/or SC
16V vacuum ampl. could malfunction
JETTA
------
Jetta 81-87 WVWG--16-BW000001/ Inspect/replace EGR valve PD 04/87
WVWG--16-HW540014 on vehicles with auto transmisson
Jetta 83/84 WVW--O16-DW402800/ Checking / replacing front NS 11/85
WVW--016-EW170305 brake hoses
Jetta 85-87 WVW--016-FW000001/ Replacing fuel transfer PC 07/87
WVW--016-HW359885 pump and filter
Jetta 88 WVW--016-JW700001/ Inspect / replacing QA 11/88
WVW--016-JW734535 brake booster
Jetta 88-92 SK Recall Fuel hose & clamps replacement SK
Cars equiped with Digifant
GLI 90-92 SB Recall California, Knock sensors and/or SB
16V vacuum ampl. could malfunction
CABRIOLET
---------
86AUG-89AUG RS Recall (91V201000) - Replace cracked fuel tanks
89AUG-90NOV RH Recall (91V162000) - Reinforce water separation panel
bracket
85JUL-92JUL SA Recall (92V058000) - Fuel hose & line replacements
89AUG-90JUL RN Recall (91V215000) - Secure passive restraint wires
SCIROCCO
---------
Scir. 83/84 WVW--053-DK017368/ Checking / replacing front NS 11/85
WVW--053-EK038276 brake hoses
Scir. 85-87 WVW--053-FK000001/ Replacing fuel transfer PC 07/87
WVW--053-HK008693 pump and filter
CORRADO
-------
90 G60: RG Recall (91V068000) - Replace fuel pump assembly
90 G60: QY Recall - Replace headlight switch
90 G60: RT Recall - Steering rack repair
90-92 G60 & VR6 SH Recall - Fuel hose & clamps replacement
(G60 & VR6)
92-93 VR6 SQ Recall - Secure Engine Compartment Electrical Wiring
and Affix Vacuum Hose Routing Label
PASSAT
------
9? Passat RY-12 thru 15 Recalls: ECU, trans filter & gas & elec
lines tied down. Check which recall is relevant
to your car.
90-92 Passat/Auto RZ Recall - Emission Recall, hesitation during the
upshift cycle of xmission. Install improved engine
management components.
93 Passat GLX SG Recall - Fuel hose & clamps replacement
SR Recall - Replace Self-Locking Nut/Washer
Assemblies on Both Front Suspension Struts
SW Recall - Replace rear window regulators after failure.
Still not an official recall.
VANAGON/CAMPERS
----------------
Vana. 81 WV2ZA025-BH003450/ Check / replace fuel MD ??/81
WV2ZA025-BH098864 expansion tank
Vana. 81-82 WV2--02--BH143904/ Replacing sliding NC 09/84
WV2--02--CH154356 door lock springs
Vana. 86 WV---02--GG000001/ Replace filler neck, PA 11/87
WV---02--GG118815 sending unit and gasket
Vana. 86-87 WV---02--G-000001/ Replace fuel tank, PB 08/87
WV---02--H-064100 main & idle control unit
Vana/Camp 87 WV2--025-HO051294/ Inspect/seal water inlet PL 12/88
WV2--025-H-999999 housing
Vana/Camp 88 WV2--025-JH000001/ Inspect/seal water inlet PL 12/88
MOD 2539 WV2--025-JH003998 housing
Vana/Camp 85 WV2-A025-FH000001/ Checking / modify sliding NR 04/86
WV2-A025-FH115553 door striker plate
Other Known Failures/Old List:
==============================
83-86 GTI, GLIs, 84-86 Cabriolets, ????? Sciroccos ????:
Self Machining Transmission due to lack of snap rings on the
differential shafts.
See April 1990, EuroCar pp 53, "VW 020 Gearbox Failures: Causes and
Cures".
Starting at serial number 15102 (built after october 14th 1982)
Serial numbers up to 14102, (built up to October 14,1982) are immune.
VW part#171-498-088 offers the clips as part of the rebuild kit.
Gear oil leaking under the tranny, or strange noises are first signs,
between 50k and 120k miles.
NO RECALL! Sue VW. Techtonics Tuning is recommended by
VW&P to fix self-machined cases (probably because they wrote the
article).
78-8? R/J I Fuel pump relay recall. Fries itself. FI cars only.
Fix = move relay for better cooling.
87-89 Jetta &
84 GTI &
83-84 Scirocco? Front brake line recall.
85-? Golf &
Jetta, GTI/GLI Heater Core failure. Recall.
89-90? Jetta: RT Recall - Leaking steering rack recall?
85-91 Golf II &
Jetta II, GTI/GLI Rough cold idle & stalling problems. Several causes
see the technical FAQ for possible diagnosis.
85-?86 GTI/GLI Recall RC, Code PC 13: Transfer pump failure.
85-?86 Golf ?Recall PC?: Clean/replace transfer pump fuel screen.
Symptoms: Transfer fuel pump becomes noisy.
85OCT-85DEC and NV/NW Recall (86V149000 & 86V029000) -
84OCT-85SEP GTI Fuel tank replacement due
to non compliance with FMVSS 301.
87-89? Scirocco: Gas tank leaks. Recall. (weren't other cars effected?)
16V Engines: Drive belt failure around 50k miles. Breaks valves!
Remedy: Replace belt at 50k miles!
89-92 16V 9A CA: SB Recall - Ca. smogged 9A engines, hanging idle switch
Not officially announced by VW as yet.
Non-CA have a less severe problem.
Fix: New throttle body assembly.
90-91 G60/Passat: V35-90-01 - Xmission binding in reverse
Replace/lube back up light switch, check
shift rod cover (Part 02A 919 835), MoS2 grease
on shifter & shift linkage
90-9x? Corrado/Passat:
Clutch disk binding on spline ==> dragging.
Replace clutch with Cadmium coated spline.
90-91 G60: V35-92-01 - Mods on 02A gears and shafts.
90-? Passat "Secret Recall" with early models. Problems:
Excessive diagonal tire wear. Fix = New stub axles.
Premature wear with Continentals on Passats.
Updated axles are= 357 501 117B
90-? Passat Rear window regulators. Service bulletin exists.
See recall SW.
90 Passat/Auto Car wont start: Replace transmission switch.
>>>>MORE???? Pls provide recall campaign & number & a 1 line description
Q: I heard there is a recall on my Golf/Jetta/GTI heater core.
What do I do?
A: The recall affects only '85-'90 cars of the above models, although
older A1 VWs have had heater cores fail also. For some time, VW was
replacing cores under a 'goodwill program', and now the recall is
official.
VW recommends that if you are experiencing any of the typical symptoms,
take your car to the nearest authorized VW dealer.
If you paid to have the work before, AND you can prove it, they will
reimburse you.
Q: What are the symptoms of a leaky/bad heater core?
A: A smell of coolant coming from your vents when the heater is on, an
unusual amount of fogging of the windshield, and in some extreme cases,
coolant leaking into the inside of the car, burning the occupants.
Q: My A/C is smelly after use, especially during humid summer months?
A: A kit to allievate this from (313)-774-4300, which removes mildew
from evaporators. Of course first you should try
spraying 1/4 can of Lysol down the fresh air entry vent, WITH THE DOORS
AND WINDOWS OPEN!!
Q: My radio keeps on playing when the car is turned off?
A: This is normal. Most VWs sold up to 1992 will play with the car
turned off. You can change that by using the switched power
wire instead of the "always hot" wire.
Newer VWs have found a compromise: The radio will play after the
car is shut off as long as the key remains in the ignition.
Q: My oxygen sensor light has come on. What am I supposed to do?
A: Change the oxygen sensor (aka Lamda Sensor), and reset the oxygen
sensor light.
Oxygen sensors are to be changed every 30k/60k miles depending
on your car. Many claim that the newer heated 3 wire ox. sensor
can last alot longer than the designated 30/60 k miles.
This is probably true, but when it does go, your car will run
very rich!
Some have reported poor running conditions, rough
idle and significant loss of power as well (recent news thread on r.a.t).
A bad O2 sensor will increase the catalytic converter temperature
significantly and could lead the substrate to loosen from the
casing (happened to me). You will hear a distinct rattling from
your exhaust, and eventually clog the exhaust system.
Note, engine temp will also increase, risking engine damage
and possible fire.
This increases back pressure and decreases the car's power
to the point where it may not sustain highway speeds.
Again depending on your model, a cat. conv. can be very
expensive (US$400-US$800 in my case), while the ox. sensor is about
US$100. If you decide not to replace the sensor, do follow
Bentley's procedure periodically to check whether it's still ok!
Note from M Sirota: I found a 16V converter at Wolf Sport for $365.
I've actually found a new 16V converter at Techtonics for only $125,
but they say it sucks.
Q: How do I reset the oxygen sensor light?
A: The oxygen sensor light is attached to a small odometer which
trips a switch every 30/60k miles. To turn the oxy light off,
you have to reset that odometer.
VW has two locations for this unit: Either somewhere along
the speedometer cable, or as part of the instrument cluster.
A2 Jettas & Golfs: Remove the coolant reservoir to locate the box
with the white resessed switch. Push it in far until
you hear a satisfying click. You should
only need to push once. The "box" is black, and the
speedometer cable passes through it.
Q: I have a Clock, not a tach, can I get a "new" instrument cluster?
[blu@cellar.org]
A: Yes! Any cluster from just about any late VW (Golf/Jetta2/Sirocco2),
will work with any other cluster. There were a few changes through the
years, but the speedo, tach, temp, fuel, and warning lights (ex. Upshift,
and OXS) will work. I installed a cluster from an 85 Golf in my 89 and
it works just fine. A "new" used unit can be installed in a Golf/Jetta
in about 45 min, with minimal hand tools. The new gauge cluster will
plug right into the existing hardware. It might make life a bit easier
if you remove the steering wheel, however, its not necessary.
While it *might* seem simple to just replace the clock with a tach, its
not, this is fairly complex, and time consuming. I know you will "loose"
your original mileage with the "new" used speedo, but trust me, its just
simpler to do.
Q: What's a good car cover for my car? Will it scratch or dull my paint?
A: Generally you are looking for a cover which is soft where it contacts
the car paint, resists water from penetrating, breathes (trapped
moisture dulls paint), and is mold resistent.
Car covers made out of "Evolution 3" made by Kimberly Clark,
or Technalon material seem to be the current favorites and satisfy the
above. They do get wet with heavy rain or when the water repellent
stuff wears off after a couple of washes.
(For a sample call in the US (800) 424 80 00, code= 44-12-36).
They are also pretty bulky, and if wet, heavy.
I hose my covers down every couple of months and occasionally wash them
in an industrial washer. Aplly Scotch Guard to make it somewhat
water repellent again.
Nylon covers are next to worthless.
To minimize paint scratches, keep your car clean, keep the cover clean,
and "roll" rather than slide the cover on.
I have also found that rolling it on and of is by far the easiest
way to cover the car. Install from the front.
Get a lock, and the cover then serves as reasonable theft deterrent as
well.
Q: Whenever it rains, the carpet in my VW gets wet?
A: There are two sources of this problem: The front of the car, and
the rear.
Front: Rust around windshield, antenna wire or other holes not plugged
right. Better fix this because if it leaks at the driver's side
it may short out your fuse box.
Also check all the rubber gommets that plug the holes.
[eldred@csi.jpl.nasa.gov] There are 2 water drain holes in the area
just below the hood vents forward of the windshield which tend
to get clogged with leaves. Make sure these are clear. If the
water doesn't drain fast enough it will come through the vent
air intake.
[From finnegan@navo.navy.mil:]
A break in the plastic drip shield which runs
across the top of the firewall under the hood
can allow copious amounts of water to flow into
the fresh air intake vent. Replace the shield.
Rear: Water leaks resulting in large puddles in the rear seat
footwells are generally caused by poor seals against the door
windows, and broken seals on the door liners.
The window seals are easily replaceable. To replace the
seal inside the door, you have to remove the inner door panel,
which is quite easy as well.
Glue a thick sheet of plastic between the door frame and the
door panel.
See tech tips for more detail
Q: My back up lights don't work anymore, but the bulbs are ok!
A: Most likely your back up light switch in the transmission is
broken. In some cars it will also disable the upshift indicator.
According to rgolen@smucs1.umassd.edu, short shift kits
reduce the longlevity of these switches to 3-4 months.
INTERCHANGING PARTS & TOOLS
===========================
Q: What VW parts are interchangeble between models & years?
(This is for all you junk-yard cats). Created on a suggestion
by [dh3q@andrew.cmu.edu (Dan)]
A: General Rule:
All cars based on the same platform are mechanically similar.
When the engine is mostly the same, it'll share engine parts,
exhaust, suspension, Xmission, brakes,
rear axle beam, most electrical components, sway bars.
Different years may have different components, but the rule
is usually that G & J are about the same in one year while
the S's and Corrados are usually a bit ahead and occasionally
share components found in the next platform (e.g., The A2
based Corrados VR6/SLC have the A+ suspension found on A3
GTIs).
Note that in Europe the engine range is much larger than in NA,
but mechanically things are similar within the same engine range.
Throughout this document you will find other hints of
interchangabilities, for example, look at the part numbers:
S's have alot of part numbers from R/Gs (the second and thrird set of
numbers are important), see also the list of rims
and wheels for interchangability. GTI/GLI rims are a nice upgrade
for most G & Js.
However the opposite is true as well...The same model of the same
year may have slightly different components. Essentially VW builds
cars until they run out of a particular batch of parts, or they
make them for one region but then send them elsewhere
(e.g., Corrados sold with heated seats in Southern California).
Another example of this are radiators, don't ask what radiator
is supposed to be in your car because no one really knows...
A1: R=G I=Conv/S I & II/J I are all similar. Bodywise & interiorwise,
the J & R are most similar, except for the rear trunk, rear seats,
& muffler. J's used to have thicker sway bars, a good upgrade
for an S & R. Final exhaust sections also different.
S's are bodywise & interiorwise different, struts are different (?),
mechanically things are layed out a tad different (air filter).
Convertibles share most with the R/G I, but later models have
similarities with S's (exhaust).
The Passat I/Dasher shares some mechanical parts with the other
A1 cars (e.g., 1600 engine), but otherwise shares more with
the old Audi 80/Audi Fox (NA).
Note that the reverse is also true, some Audi 80/100 (4000/5000)
parts will fit in A1 VWs (e.g., the windshield washer canisters
of a 5000 = S). In Europe, the low end Audis share more mechanically
with the high end VWs, because they basically use the same
engine block (1600/1800).
There are also some parts shared with Porsches, most notable
the 924 & 944 series (locks, rack, steering (?)).
A2: G II/ J II/Corrado. The G & J are most similar, except for the
obvious differences. The dashes are very similar but there are
some nuances like the trim which is bolted in for J but snapped
in on early US made Gs.
Corrados 16V (Europe) share the most with GTIs, but the G60s
only share some suspension components (rear axle beam).
The SLC/VR6s don't share much mechanical with other VWs
but share alot with the other C's (brakes, interior & body).
VR6 rims will not fit a G60.
Please add specific contributions:
Brakes: Most >81 A1/A2 VWs can be upgraded to newer calipers & rotors
be it in some cases with some additional modifications
(VW&P/EuroCar has has a bunch of article on that).
The biggest right now are those on the Corrados.
Cylinder Heads: Cylinder heads on 1.7 l A-1 cars from US '82.5 thru '84
are interchangeable with earlier A-1 engines except a different
tool must be used to depress the lifters. GTI cylinder heads
are incompatible. [eldred@csi.jpl.nasa.gov]
Struts: R/G=J
Interior pieces: Alot will be interchangable (R/G=J) but be careful
alot of piece will look the same but won't fit.
Steering wheels are interchangable up to ~91/92? when they
switched to a finer spline.
Alternators: Almost all are interchangeable, but some may require
a different harness. Usually go to a higher amperage, never
lower. The 90A are the current "hot ticket".
Starters: ?
Q: Will Rabbit seats fit in a Scirocco?
A: Rabbit seats won't fit, the legs on the seat are too high. Try
a junk yard seat, or weld the adjusting mechanism to a height
suitable to you.
Q; I need tool VW #xyz. Is there a suitable replacement?
A: Often yes. Here are some:
"Remove grease cap from rear axle" tool: Adjustable pliers, screwdriver
"Timing belt tensioner pulley tightening tool":
Bend a section of coat hanger into a "U" shape
of the proper size for the holes in the pulley.
or (lousier)
Two nails & a screw driver.
"Upper strut bolt" tool: Air impact wrench, or grab a socket with
a vise grip with the allen key through the top.
From [Ken_Tsai@qmgate.arc.nasa.gov]:
The Oxygen Sensor Socket from Lisle will work.
The socket has a hex at the top so you can use
a comination wrench to loosen the strut nut
while holding the center rod stationary with a
6 or 7 mm allen wrench.
"Spring Compressor": ALL SUBSTITUTES ARE DANGEROUS! Buy the real
thing for ~ US$40.
"Remove radio tool" use a coat hanger, make 4 cuts, so each piece is
a "U". Stick them in the holes, and move the
hanger pieces "out" to the left and right,
while pulling the radio out by the tape
entrance.
"Remove Valve Adj Chims" For changing valve shims, a valve depressor is
necessary, but the funny special pliers are not.
All that is needed is a small "jeweler's"
screwdriver. File the blade until it is narrow
enough to fit flat into the slot in the shim
bucket. Then file it until there is a nice
knife edge on it. Depress the valve, and stick
the screwdriver through the slot on the bucket
and under the shim at the same time. It will
just pop right out, though oftentimes it helps
to wiggle the valve depressor around to help out.
[Borowski]
"Pin Wrench" rom: tedcrum@garnet.berkeley.edu (Ted Crum):
A pin wrench (pin spanner) is needed change
strut cartridges, adjust [W] cam belts, etc.
I've used this trick from Popular Science for
years: Make a pin wrench from an adjustable
("Crescent") wrench with two holes drilled into
the sides of the jaws, near the tips.
With pins placed in these holes, it is a
strong adjustable pin wrench.
A second set of bigger holes can go a little
down from the tips and further from the
nut-turning faces:
__
/ o |
/ |
/ |
|______|
Timing plug removal tool Use the handle of a stubby craftsmen slot
screwdriver.
>>>COME ON, THERE MUST BE PLENTY MORE
FUEL INJECTION
==============
Q: What are the FI types used by VW?
A: [From TomH] First, let's remember that "CIS" is really
Bosch K-Jetronic, and "CIS-E" is KE-Jetronic. Now, as for the US GTI/GLI
injection systems:
83-84 8V K-Jetronic
85-87 8V KE-Jetronic
87-89 16V KE-Jetronic
88-92 8V Digifant II
90-92 16V KE-Motronic
KE-Jetronic is basically a K-Jetronic with ignition control and a knock
sensor, while KE-Motronic has full engine management capabilities.
Note that the above data is for the US GTI/GLI series cars. The US
GT/GL models for example in 85-87 use CIS [kokerj@rpi.edu].
Digifant is a pulsed injection system (rather than continuous, like the
Bosch K series), which is in principle better. I'm no big fan of (at
least the early versions of) Digifant, I don't think it has horrible
reliability problems, either. You *will* need to run injector cleaner
through the engine more frequently, though, or performance and mpg will
drop right off the scale.
RECOMMENDATIONS
===============
Q: Should I warm up my VW?
A: General recommendation is:
- Let it idle for a bit (couple secs, 1/2 minute)
- Then drive the car easily, rpm < 3000 or so.
- When the car is up to operating temp (80C oil or water needle 1/2 way)
you can increase rpms.
Why? Part of the reason is lubrication. Cold oil is not as viscous.
Oil pumps are constant volume pumps (at a specific rpm) and therefore
may produce excessive pressures when cold.
The second reason is thermal expansion. An engine is made to be driven
at operating temperature, and therefore things will not fit or seal
as well when cold. In addition, engine components expand at different
rates (e.g., cast iron vs aluminum, small vs large volumes) and the
slower this process occurs the smaller the expansion differences.
Idling your engine may warm up the engine too fast, driving hard
immediatly will produce reduced lubrication and excessive pressure.
Q: Which is better High or Low revs when driving?
Will either one damage the engine?
A: The answere is to avoid extreme stress on the engine, neither
excessive high or low revs are advised.
Low Revs: You are putting a lot of torque on the engine with a low oil
volume & pressure. This can lead to damage. Generally stay above
1500 or 2000 rpms.
High Revs: VW engines are rather comfortable in the higher ranges.
However, at high revs you have alot of (transient) thermal effects
taking place which are not always healthy (valves, head) in addition
to certain harmonic vibrations in all the shafts that spin, sometimes
also the pistons (motorcycles tend to have that problem more).
So far I have found VW engines to hold up well.
These cars were designed to sustain fairly high speeds in Germany.
However I have also found that the perifery does not always hold up:
Waterpumps tend to leak alot quicker when you rev high.
Now what's high? Generally near redline is high, and it's not advised
to go over, or stay there for long.
Normal non-aggressive driving should be done between ~2000rpms &
max torque which is usually around 4000 rpms, resulting in "normal"
wear.
Q: How do you break into all A1 & A2 VWs (exc. Corrado, Passats, A3)
w/o breaking glas in under 10 secs?
(Verified by Jan, in a junk yard of course).
A: This has received some protest, but I decided to post it anyway
to make people aware of the ease with which one can break into
a VW, and because advertisements for the deterrent actually
has a picture on how to do it.
Punch a small hole with a screwdriver directly underneath the doorhandle
(underneath the lock) and move screwdriver up and down to unlock.
ADP armor door plates are the only safeguard.
(800) ADP-LOCK, about $50 per pair. Install in 5 minutes with just a
screwdriver. Other brands exist. Stay away from flimsier products
though.
An alarm with engine lockout is also HIGHLY recommended.
Newer VWs come with such an alarm! Apparently very effective.
Q: What gas (petrol) should I use?
A: Very tough to answere! Generally stick with the better brands because
they take better care of the quality of the gas, keep their
tanks cleaner, etc.
Note however that many brands share gas in rural areas to reduce
transportation costs (though they may add different additives).
It's also recommended to stick with one brand. Apparently the additives
are not always compatible (varnish).
Convenience stores switch brands often to reduce cost ==> not recommended.
I have a VW brochure from '87? that recommends Shell, Chevron & AMOCO
BY NAME (Publication W42-002-920-0). Texaco seems ok too (imho).
That brochure talks about additives that reduce carbon build-up.
I have had rough idle problems with Arco EC gas in CA.
Whether you need "super" or high octane gas remains debatable.
Some brands add more detergent in their high octane gasses which will
keep your engine cleaner.
Gas formulas change over time and per geographic region.
In the winter a more volatile gas, or oxygenated gas is sold to
improve cold starting and reduce emmissions (which may increase
gas consumption between 3% and 15%).
Cars with knocks sensors can derive more power with higher octane gas.
And, yes, all watercooled VWs can run on unleaded fuel.
Basically, if your car runs well with the brand you are using,
stick to it.
Q: Good and bad VW years? Impressions?
A: >>>Need help with this one!!!
General: (From M.Sirota) US [made] VWs, unfortunately, suck after
lots of mileage. Most notably, they rattle like the dickens.
(??-'88 Rabbit, Golf, GTI, base Jetta).
Jetta GL's and GLI's and Carats and the like were made in
Germany during this period.
[From Jan:] Do not mistake bad service with the quality of
the car. In the US, most VW service is at best second class.
Older VWs (A1) are also more prone to rust, esp. around the
wheel arches due to the absence of the plastic protectors.
Newer VWs are much better protected, up to the point of
using galvanized sheet metal on some pannels in Corrados.
[From Dan Simoes:] as far as quality goes, it seems to follow
the pattern: (best-->worst) German-built, Mexican-built,
US-built although there are certainly enough exceptions to
this rule. VW recognizes the quality problems with the
Mexican cars, and feels that they will be fixed by the time
we get the A3 cars.
81 Scirocco: Made by Karmann, European Market!
Major Problems: 2B5 Zenith Carb, electrical problems (easy
to fix, hard to find).
Impressions: Noisy. With modified suspension a fantastic
handler. A car with an incredible portion of fun, though engine
a bit underpowered (86 Hp).
79.5 (?) - 84 Rabbit Diesel (US-built models):
(tgpt_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu)
Major problems: For some reason extremely hard on starters
and alternators. Heavy vibration when cold reduces life of
some parts. Even more prone to engine mount woes than gas
models.
Impressions: The car that wouldn't die. Consistently
run 300,000+ miles. Anywhere from 30 - 55 mpg. Horribly
underpowered (52HP). Emissions exempt in some states, which
is a good thing. Regular oil/filter & fuel filt. changes
even more important than most. You either love them or you
hate them. At 300,000 miles things that were supposed to
last "the life of the car" start to break.
84 US Rabbit: another car that won't die. Mechanically
excellent--I have 177k miles and it runs like new,
though I've had to make one major repair (cylinder head).
Interior doesn't hold up as well--I've replaced the
carpet and the headliner fell off the ceiling. Outside
body/paint still excellent. I want something fancier
but I can't justify it since it's worthless as a used
car. All rattles disappeared when I replaced the infamous
right hand engine mount. You do need to stick on anti-sway
bars for decent handling. [eldred@csi.jpl.nasa.gov]
85-87 8V GTI-US: US made, US market.
Major problems: Rough Idle, switches, seat bolsters ripping,
some (85-86) been released with mismatched wristpins.
Engines usually seem to last long.
Impressions: Lots of low end torque, good handler, great
around-the-town-car, and good low speed (<80 mph) cruiser.
Good mileage (~30 mpg).
88->90 GTI/Golf: Mexican made, US market
Major problems: Same as above. Quality of cars varies
alot between batches.
Impressions: Reduced low end torque, higher seats.
90-> Passat: Made in Germany
Major problems: Early production had many quality
problems all over. Later models seem to fare better.
Impressions: 4 cyl version underpowered especially
in automatic version. VR6 equiped car is quieter and
more powerful. Lots of room. Good handling.
90-92 G60: Made by Karmann, US market.
Major problems: No general trend as yet. First cold start
sometimes fails. Second start usually ok.
Notchy transmission/Linkage binding.
Impressions: Low end lacking, notchy shifter,
but otherwise a nice sturdy car. Good handling,
bad rear visibility. The usual rattles.
92-> SLC: Made by Karmann, US market.
Major problems: Transmission: Linkage binding, inceasing
notchyness.
Impressions: Great car.
CURRENT VW TYPES:
=================
A01: 1975-1980
Polo, Derby
A small car with a transverse FWD layout. Derby is a sedan version
of the Polo; both available with 2 doors only.
A02: 1981-
Polo, Polo Coupe, Derby/Polo Sedan
A small car with a transverse FWD layout. Derby later renamed Polo
Sedan. Base Polo has almost vertical hatchback, while Coupe is
sportier looking. All are available with 2 doors only. Facelifted
for 1991.
A1: 1974-1984 (in some cases: 1993)
Golf/Rabbit, Jetta, Scirocco, Cabriolet, Pickup/Caddy
Compact cars with transverse FWD. Jetta has a trunk, while Scirocco
(2-door only) is a sportier design. A1 Scirocco production ended in
1990, while Cabriolet and Caddy (Pickup) continue to be based on the
A1 chassis. US and Mexican production continued until 1984. Face-
lifted in 1980 (1981 in the US).
A2: 1984-1991
Golf, Jetta, Corrado (continued after 91!)
Compact cars with transverse FWD. Jetta has a trunk, while Corrado
(2-door only) is a sporty version. Mexican production continued until
1992. Syncro AWD available.
A3: 1992-
Golf, Vento/Jetta
Compact cars with transverse FWD. Vento/Jetta has a trunk.
B1: 1973-1979
Passat/Dasher, Passat Variant
Mid-sized cars with longitudonal FWD. The original fastback design
with a separate trunk was changed to a hatchback in 1976.
B2: 1980-1987
Passat, Santana/Quantum, Passat Variant/Quantum Wagon
Mid-sized cars with longitudonal FWD. Base varsion a hatchback,
with Santana/Quantum a sedan version. 4-door only. Audi-based
Syncro AWD available. Production continues in China.
B3: 1988-
Passat, Passat Variant/Passat Wagon
Mid-sized cars with transverse FWD. 4-door only. Syncro AWD
available.
Corrections from JWALKER@UA1VM.UA.EDU:
T1: 1949 - 1966 (European model years; - 1967 U.S. Model years)
Station Wagon/Transporter (Micro-bus, Bus, Camper, Kombi, Pickup Truck,
Double Cab Pickup Truck, Panel Van)
A utility vehicle/truck with rear air-cooled engine (Type I engine)
T2: 1967 - 1970 (Eur. mod. yrs; 1968 - 1971 U.S. Mod. yrs)
A utility vehicle/truck with rear air-cooled engine (Type I engine)
T2: 1971 - 1978 (e.m.yrs; 1972 - 1979 U.S. m.yrs)
A utility vehicle/truck with rear air-cooled engine (Type IV engine)
Same engine as Porsche 914 and VW 411/412.
T3: 1979 - 1982 (e.m.yrs; 1980 - 1983+1/2 U.S.m.yrs)
A utility vehicle/truck with rear engine: either air-cooled boxer
(Type IV engine), water-cooled boxer (Type IV-based) or water-cooled
diesel inline 4 (Golf). Availability of engines overlapped.
1980 - 1991 (e.m.yrs; sold in U.S. only 1981 - 1983 U.S. model years)
except only Vanagon/Vanagon Camper were sold in U.S.
A utility vehicle/truck with rear water-cooled Rabbit Diesel engine.
T3: 1983 - 1991 (e.m.yrs; 1983+1/2 - 1991 U.S.m.yrs)
A utility vehicle/truck with rear water-cooled engine (Type ? engine)
(engine is basically the same Type IV, but with water-cooled heads.
engine size is much different, however: shorter in length and width)
Syncro models available in Europe until 1993 model year.
T4: 1992 -
Transporter, Bus/EuroVan, Camper
A utility vehicle/truck with transverse FWD.
LT1: 1975-
LT
light and medium-duty utility vehicles/trucks.
CURRENT AUDI TYPES:
A01: 1974-1978
Audi 50
The twin to VW Polo, introduced before its sibling. 2-door hatchback
only.
B1: 1973-1979
Audi 80/Fox, Audi Fox Wagon
Mid-sized car with longitudonal FWD. First only with 2-door, but
later available as 4-door as well. Wagon only available in North
America.
B2: 1980-1987
Audi 80, 90, 4000, Coupe, Quattro
Mid-sized car with longitudonal FWD or AWD. 2-door and 4-door
versions available (except Coupe and Quattro 2-door only). 90
was a 5-cylinder version of 80; quattro AWD available for all
models.
B3: 1988-1991
Audi 80, 90, Coupe, S2
Mid-sized car with longitudonal FWD or AWD. 4-door only. Quattro
AWD available for all models.
B4: 1992-
Audi 80, Coupe, S2
Mid-sized car with longitudonal FWD or AWD. 4-door only. Quattro
AWD available for all models. S2 is a high-performance version of
the Coupe. A mild revision of B3 chassis.
C1: 1969-1976
Audi 100, 100 Coupe
Large car with longitudonal FWD. 4-door only, except Coupe as
2-door only.
C2: 1977-1982
Audi 100, 200, 5000, Avant
Large car with longitudonal FWD. 4-door only. 200 has turbocharged
engine (similar to 5000 Turbo). Avant is a wagon version. Quattro
AWD available.
C3: 1983-1991
Audi 100, 200, 5000, Avant
Large car with longitudonal FWD. 4-door only. 200 has turbocharged
engine (similar to 5000 Turbo). Avant is a wagon version. Quattro
AWD available. 5000 renamed to 100/200 in North America after 1988.
C4: 1992-
Audi 100, Avant, S4
Large car with longitudonal FWD. 4-door only. Quattro AWD available
for all models. S4 is a high-performance version using a turbocharged
5-cylinder engine. A moderate revision of C3 chassis.
D1: 1990-
Audi V8
Large car with longitudonal AWD. 4-door only.
CURRENT SEAT TYPES: (NOTE: SEAT is a Spanish Co. started by Fiat and
bought by VW in 1990)
A01: 1994- (?)
Marbella
A very small car with transverse FWD. Based on some Polo components.
[Current Marbella is not VW-based or derived.]
A1: 1993- (?)
Ibiza
A small car with transverse FWD. Based on A03 Polo platform.
[Current Ibiza is not VW-based or derived.]
Availability to start mid 1993.
B1: 1992-
Toledo
A small/mid-size car with transverse FWD. Based on,
A2 Jetta floorpan, uses Golf/Jetta mechanics.
4-door sedan only? Hatchback (according to enpw2@hpl.lut.ac.uk)?
Abandoned proto-type had a 200 BHp G60 VR6, synchro.
It's a 4-door sedan with a hatchback and an *enormous* trunk. VR6 is
indeed available.
OLD VW TYPES:
Type I: 1938-
Beetle, Cabriolet, Karmann Ghia, 181/Thing
A small car with an upright air-cooled engine.
Type II: 1950-
Transporter, Bus, Camper
A utility vehicle (truck) with either an upright (early) air-cooled,
pancake (middle) air-cooled engine, or a pancake (late) water-cooled
engine.
See also T1 through T4.
Type III: 1962-1973
Sedan/Notchback, Coupe/Fastback, Variant/Squareback, Karmann Ghia
A mid-sized car with a pancake engine.
Type IV: 1968-1974
Sedan (2/4-door), Variant
A large car with a pancake engine.
OTHERS: [Anyone know whether these fit at all into the VW nomenclature?]
VW-Porsche 914: 1970-1976
Coupe
A mid-engine coupe designed by Porsche and built by Volkswagen.
K70: 1971-1975
Sedan
A large car with a watercooled inline-4.
Iltis: 1982-
Convertible
A four-wheel drive utility vehicle designed largely for military use,
using both Beetle and Golf components.
Fox/Voyage:
A small car with a longitudonal FWD layout. Made in Brasil and
exported to North America.
Contributors (not exhaustive):
------------------------------
Note: Quoted contributions implie possible conflicting pieces of advise
with other contributors.
jmm2948@zeus.tamu.edu (Jeffrey M. Mayzurk)
mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
dilmore@techops.cray.com (Robert J. Dilmore)
tgpt_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Tom Guptill)
rgolen@UMASSD.EDU (Ric Golen)
cdg@sei.cmu.edu (Craig Gary)
borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
tomh@metrics.com (\tom haapanen)
teek@kingcong.uwaterloo.ca (Prateek Dwivedi)
gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca (ANdy)
eric@quantum.qnx.com (Eric Johnson)
dans@danix.uucp (Dan Simoes)
dilmore@techops.cray.com (Robert J. Dilmore)
tedcrum@garnet.berkeley.edu (Ted Crum)
crawford@fido.econ.arizona.edu (David Crawford)
msirota@ee.rochester.edu (Mark Sirota)
Josh.Sirota@Eng.Sun.COM (Josh Sirota, & yes, they are related)
blu@cellar.org (Dan Reed)
scottz@pangea.Stanford.EDU (Scott Zeller)
christos@wucs1.wustl.edu (Christos Papadopoulos)
rrusk@rcx1.ssd.csd.harris.com (Bob Rusk)
aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
nicos@cs.bu.edu (Nicos Kontopoulos)
lewf@newton.ccs.tuns.ca (Fred Lew)
dchill@gateway.sequent.com (Duncan Hill)
JWALKER@UA1VM.UA.EDU (joel)
enpw2@hpl.lut.ac.uk (Paul Waine)
Ken_Tsai@qmgate.arc.nasa.gov (Ken Tsai)
bill@tss.com (Bill Castellano)
borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Donald Borowski)
ahogben@informix.com (Andy Hogben)
rdb1@homxb.att.com (Ron DeBlock)
fval_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (trey valenta)
eldred@csi.jpl.nasa.gov (Dan Eldred)
scecos@vaxa.isc.rit.edu (Scott C. Ernst)
jwest@r3vm.dsd.trw.com (Judson West)
willers@trombone.sps.mot.com (Bob Willers)
mcgu5464@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Ronald J Mcguire)
kokerj@rpi.edu ()
APEAD@ESOC.BITNET ()
mshearer@math.ucla.edu (Michael Shearer)
thogard@wrdis01.robins.af.mil (Cont Tim Hogard)
keys@starchild.ncsl.nist.gov (Lawrence B. Keys)
pgriffit@magnus.acs.ohio-state.EDU (Peter A Griffith)
jcl1@CC.MsState.Edu (john c luthe)
scottmo@tekig5.pen.tek.com (Scott John Mockry)
jochena@bjsys.ersys.edmonton.ab.ca (Joe Angerstein)
txh@philabs.philips.com (Teun Hendriks)
dan@research.nj.nec.com (Dan Ruderman)
denio@seismo.CSS.GOV (Dennis O'Neill)
huntzing@PICA.ARMY.MIL (high)
beorn@berkeley.edu (Beorn Johnson)
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Disclaimer: My employer has nothing to do with this.
Use any info in this posting at your OWN risk.
This is public information and should not be dissiminated
for profit.
--
-----------------
Jan Vandenbrande
jan@lipari.usc.edu (Research address)
jan@ug.eds.com (Work address)
From: jan@ug.eds.com (Jan Vandenbrande)
Subject: rec.autos.vw [W] TECHNICAL, FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTION (FAQ)
Date: 1995/04/26
Message-ID: <3nm228$hoj@lipari.usc.edu>
distribution: world
approved: news-answers-request@MIT.EDU
sender: jan@lipari.usc.edu
followup-to: poster
summary: Watercooled VWs Technical Q&As
organization: M&E (Division of EDS), Cypress CA
newsgroups: rec.autos.vw,rec.answers,news.answers
Archive-name: autos/vw/technical-faq
Rec-autos-vw-archive-name: technical-faq
Posting-Frequency: bi-monthly
Last-modified: 15 April 1995
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
==========================================
Frequently Asked Questions
for
Water Cooled VWs
-- Technical --
==========================================
rec.autos.vw
Version:
1 Jan 93 = Inception, more or less.
1 Feb 93 = Removing O2 Snsr; Offrd lights #; tools
1 Mar 93 = Brake rotor edits; VW part numbers; sagging doors; Compression
checks; adjusting valves.
1 Apr 93 = Stuff on interchangeability on parts; Rim offsets
1 May 93 = Eliminating rattles & squeaks, updated timing belt procedure,
water pump failure diagnosis, added keyword for easy
diagnosis, clutch sizes.
1 Jun 93 = CAM Baffles, Index.
1 Jul 93 = Edits.
1 Aug 93 = Chemical Info added.
1 Sep 93 = Edits, Tool info edits, dielectric grease, MTL caution
1 Oct 93 = Edits.
1 Nov 93 = Coolant/phosphates updated, rim ranges.
1 Dec 93 = Corrections on rim ranges, hesitation updates,
1 Jan 94 = Tom Coradeschi reformats.
15Jan 94 = Battery updates, Tire pressures, body care.
1 Feb 94 = Copyright BS added. Charge indicator diagnosis.
15Feb 94 = Split performance issues into its own faq!
1 Mar 94 = Edits, update recall info
1 Apr 94 = Edits. Updated brakes & transmissions a bit
1 May 94 = Remove bushings, edits
15May 94 = More rough idle & black smoke stuff added.
1 Jun 94 = Paint touch up procedure.
15Jun 94 = Updated with ND BBS stuff (coolant, bulbs)
1 Jul 94 = Edits
15Jul 94 = Tesing synchros. Overheating, windshields, seats, rim care
1 Aug 94 = Edits
15Aug 94 = Paintless dent removal.
1 Sep 94 = Inline fuel filter removal.
15Sep 94 = Edits.
1 Oct 94 = Edits
1 Nov 94 = Added some coolant service info, windshield Urethane, maintenance
schedule.
1 Dec 94 = Updated FI cleaners.
1 Jan 95 = Updated coolant.
15Jan 95 = Exhaust hangers, retrofittimg programmable wiper control
15Feb 95 = Leather care
15Mar 95 = Approval received for *.answers & archival @ MIT
1 Apr 95 = W6DPO plug comparison
15Apr 95 = Tire build dates
Moderator:
Jan Vandenbrande
jan@ug.eds.com
jan@lipari.usc.edu (school address, works)
See also the list of contributors at the end.
Please feel free to submit any additional info.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Copyright Notice (c) -- 1994:
All Rights Reserved
The information contained here is collectively copyrighted by the
authors. The right to reproduce this is hereby given, provided it is
copied intact, with the copyright notice inclusive.
However, the authors explicitly prohibit selling this document, any
of its parts, or any document which contains parts of this document.
(Inspired from faq.audio ;->)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
PURPOSE:
========
This FAQ is geared predominantly at the technical aspects of watercooled
VWs based on the Golf Chassis (A1-A3: Golf I/Rabbit, Golf II & III,
Sciroccos, Corrados, Jettas, Vento, Convertibles) using the original Audi
"1600 type" engine block (now available up 2 liters) and the new VR6
2.8/2.9l engine aimed at the US/Canadian market.
Not covered are the engines/fuel systems available outside North America
such as the 1300 cc engines, carburetors/mono-throttle FI systems.
These cars have many similarities with Dashers/Passats/Fox's. These are
mostly mechanical, but not for the styling, suspension & exhausts.
These technical aspects handles issues that will help you maintain the
car in near stock conditions. The perfomance FAQ discusses issues
to improve upon the stock design.
Quite often, to remain stock complient is as expensive as it is to
upgrade to better after market (performance) parts. Shocks and tires
are a good example of this.
Index:
======
General issues (tools, VW part no system)
Chemicals (Useful chemicals to have around)
Engine (Rough idle/stalling, oil filter, more power,
water pump, plugs, O2 sensor)
Electrical (Bosch # conventions, charging problems, lights, etc)
Transmission (CV Joints, shifting, gear oils)
Brakes (Types, fluids, rotors)
Tires/Rims/Suspension (shocks, tire widths & rim upgrades, performance)
Body/Interior (Eliminating rattles, waxing)
Miscellanea (Corrado spoilers squeaks)
--------------------------------------------------------------------
GENERAL
=======
Q: I have a problem with my car? What do I do? How should I go about
fixing it?
A: Diagnose the problem as well as you can: When does it happen? Is it speed
dependent? Is there a noise associated with it? Where is it coming from? Is
the problem temperature dependent? Happens at start up/after a while? Are
there any physical signs such as fluids/grease/wear marks? Does everything
look in good order/everything still attached?
While you are going over your car, check whether all the basic things are
in order.
VW engines run hot and the 4 cyl. vibrate a lot. As a result things rattle
loose and dry out quickly. This in turn causes a host of other problems.
Electrical connections & wires: Connectors tend to corrode, wires break
internally. Older VWs have a lot of problems which will make you think the
car is totally gone while all it may be is a loose wire, or a bad ground.
Also check out less obvious things: alternator brushes, fuse box, Hall
connections *inside* the distributor?
Vacuum hoses: They crack, they leak. Replace where needed.
Beware of all rubber components. They wear out with all the heat.
If your engine does not run, there are really two main sources: Mechanical
and periphery. Generally, VW engines hold up mechanically rather well, and
even with mechanical problems you can often get the engine to run.
Usually the problem is located with the periphery. You really only need two
basic things to make an engine run: Fuel and a spark at +/- the right
moment. Suspect a problem with either one first and trace it from there.
If for example the problems occurs each time it rains, suspect something
wrong with an electrical connection or water leaking onto the fuze box.
Yours truly once had problems with a carb and was able to start and run the
engine while spraying carb cleaner directly into the intake manifold (with
the carb REMOVED).
Cleaning the car and engine is often helpful in locating the problem,
especially leaks. It also make working on the car so much easier, for you
and the mechanic.
If you haven't found it yet, read through your manuals and try to identify
the offending piece?
Ask around. r.a.vw is an excellent source for help, but please be as
detailed as you can. If you are having trouble diagnosing the problem, just
imagine how hard it is for us not even having seen the car.
So *please* don't post: "My car makes a funny noise. What could it be?"
Start with make, model, year, and an accurate diagnosis.
After you narrow it down to a couple of potential sources, start with the
easiest and cheapest fix.
My experience is that a majority of seemingly serious problems can be
traced to very simple problems.
Mechanics do NOT have the time to check individual components.
Many work on commission (like department stores) and the more cars they
work on (not fix) the more they earn. Therefore, they usually take the
quickest route for them (replace stuff), and of course you end up paying
for that shiny new part through the nose even though it does not fix the
problem.
Besides, would you pay a mechanic $200 to fix a 50 cent connector because
it took him/her the whole day to find it?
Q: I want to work on my VW. What tools should I get?
A: I'd recommend Muir's (Complete Idiot) Stage I and Stage II tool list. Here
is roughly the "phylosophy" to follow:
Most people start with a couple of tools and then buy more as time
progresses and they learn how to work on their car.
It makes sense, except that it is usually cheaper to buy the most complete
"set" rather than buying a small set and then adding on (e.g., socket "set"
= 50 US cents a socket in the largest set, individual = 2-7 US$/piece).
My recommendation therefore is to buy the largest possible set of whatever
you can afford. Trust me, you will always be going back for more. In
addition, good tools will last you your lifetime!
Next, what brand name should you get. First look for tools with a life time
warrantee (though that may not be an indication of quality). In North
America, SnapOn, MAC, Stanley, Mechanix, Blackhawk, KD, and Sears Craftsman
tools (though their quality and warrantee policy is rumored to be
declining).
Avoid cheap tools, they are NOT worth the money, they can do more harm than
good (stripping), and may actually hurt you.
My order of preference is (and I'll be flamed for this, but this IS based
on 15 years of experience): Made in the USA or NW-Europe, & Japan. I
usually stay away from Taiwanese tools except for one shot "light" duty
items. They are getting better, but so far quality has varied too much to
be reliable.
A basic set should consist of:
Socket set:
Most versatile is a 3/8" ratchet drive set. It must contain 10, 13, 17,
19mm, and sparkplug socket, a couple extension bars and a 3/8-1/4"
adaptor.
12 pt sockets are the most common, but you may want to consider a 6 pt
set instead. They are MUCH less likely to strip and break if you need to
exert a good amount of torque.
Deep sockets are also useful in case you need to clear a bolt.
A torque wrench is also very useful. Unfortunately there is no one size
for all torques on the car. There are a variety of models: Cheapest are
those with a read out gauge. They work well but usually you end up in a
position that you cannot read the gauge.
I prefer the "click type" torque wrenches where you dial in the desired
torque and it will give you a loud click once you attain that.
Screw drivers:
Get a whole bunch of sizes, spade & Phillips
Allen Keys:
Get a whole bunch of sizes, though you may want to get Allen key Sockets
to use with your 3/8" drive (once you figure out the sizes you need).
Wrenches:
Get the largest set you can afford. Open and closed.
Same sizes as above. Get at least one large adjustable one.
Pliers:
Again, get the largest set you can afford, regular & miniature,
straight, needle nosed. Vise Grips are useful too.
Hammers:
Get a plastic & rubber one. The "normal" hammers are usually not used on
cars except in utter frustration.
Jack & Stands:
I'd recommend a floor jack over a bottle or scissor jack. A floor jack
will make raising your car *so* much easier. Stands are also a must. You
don't want you car crashing down on you. Use with wood and some foam
rubber to protect you car's undercoating.
Lights:
At the minimum get a knock-about light with a shatter proof heavy duty
lamp in it (don't even *think* of using a regular light bulb, dangerous,
and they only last 10 minutes under those conditions). A well lit garage
(i.e., 8" neon lamps is ideal).
Oil Filter wrench:
Different types exist and it depends on what works best for your car. My
favorite is the one that looks like an extension bar with a loop of seat
belt material.
Air Pump:
Pump up tires...
Tire gauges:
Dial types are usually the most accurate.
Odds an ends:
Tie wraps, electrical wires & connectors, elec. tape, vacuum hoses, hose
clamps.
"Oh-Oh" Type of Tools:
======================
Occasionally, things WILL go wrong, usually 5 minutes before all shops
close on a day before a long weekend, when your other car is gone or your
bike has a flat, all your neighbors with tools or out of town, and right
before you embark on a long trip, and a very unsympathetic spouse watching
on.
For many of these, you can wait for a sale, but do get them when you have a
chance.
Screw Extractor Set/Easy Out:
Get a set, just in case, to remove stripped screws/bolts/brake bleed
nipples.
Magnetic Pickup:
Basically a magnet on an antenna. Lose a nut down your intake manifold
throat or down a cylinder?...this should help. Don't even *think* on
starting the car.
Claw pick up:
Like the above except it has little claws on the end of a flexible tube
to pick things up. Similar use as above.
>>>> STILL NEEDS WORK <<<<<
Q: My A1 based VW sounds very buzzy and noisy, vibrations in the
engine compartment. What's wrong?
A: Check the front right engine mount. They wear out in ~50k miles.
From [KIRBY ERLANDSEN]: My tricks are to cut the old one out with a hacksaw
(this is easy because you can remove the hacksaw blade and cut from the
inside out ) and put the new mount in the freezer while you heat the
bracket in the oven. Then with gloves on, you can hammer the two together
fairly easily. [Note, oil the components FIRST] If that does not work,
bring it to a machine shop and have them press it in for you.
See also a1.mounts in the archives.
Q: My odometer/trip odometer stopped working. How do I fix it?
A: This is an old known problem. The odometer gear which drives the 1/10 mile
splits thus no longer engages the shaft to the 1/10 mile digit wheel. You
can glue it back with epoxy (after you spend some prime time behind your
dash removing the speedometer and opening it up).
Hints on removing: A2's are a lot easier than A1's. The hardest part is
unscrewing the speedo cable. Try taking the lower dash covers off and put
your hand up from the bottom. Also I just remove the steering wheel before
working on the cluster. It makes it a whole lot easier, but be sure your
steering wheel and shaft are marked so you can get them back on the same.
Otherwise your wheel will be crooked when you drive straight.
Reinstalling is harder because you have to be sure the square drive on the
speedo matches up with the cluster. Otherwise the cable will not seat fully
or the speedo nut is hard to start.
Also, be careful to align the wiring connector before trying to insert -
it's polarized.
Other hint: I also twisted some fine wire around the flanges of the gear
(near the shaft) and put glue over the wire and flanges. Make sure to get
the gear back in the proper position under the worm gear.
Other hint: I usually go down to the junk yard and look for damaged
dashboards and speedo's. Usually one has the gear I need -- I just pry it
off -- this is a no cost item if you have a friendly junk yard owner.
Other hint: Another approach I used on my '79 Rabbit was to go to a hobby
shop and find a small pinion gear for those electric race cars. It had the
right number of teeth, and same ID, but was slightly wider and had an Allen
set screw.
I filed off the outer edges to clear the other worm gears and mounted it on
the shaft with the set screw. Looked weird, but worked OK. The gear will
cost about $3 and you need the fine Allen key wrench.
You can also send it to have it fixed at:
VDO (the OEM) in VA, (703) 665-0100
Q: What is VWs part numbering scheme?
A: Each part number is composed of nine numbers in three groups, followed
optionally with a letter suffix (taken from WolfSport's catalog):
vvv ggg ppp [s]
vvv: Vehicle type ggg: PRIMARY INDEX
171 = R/G I 100-199 = Engine/Cooling/Clutch
161 = Jetta I 200-299 = Exhaust, Fuel Tank
165 = Jetta II 300-399 = Transmission/Transaxle
261 = 16V GTI 400-499 = Front Axle/Suspension
531 = Scirocco I 500-599 = Rear Axle
535 = Scirocco II 600-699 = Brake
155 = Convertible 700-799 = Cables, Bumpers and Foot control
191 = Golf 800-899 = Body/Interior
900-999 = Electrical, ignition, fuel injection
ppp: Individual Part Number s: Suffix, optional
The primary index and the part number are the most important numbers
because many of the cars share the same parts. So do not be surprised to
see a 171-Rabbit type part in a Jetta.
Note that some part numbers are exclusively related to certain parts
of the car. For example, vvv = 020 are related to the transmission,
vvv = 056 common oil filter.
Note: This is scheme has been in use since the Beetle days (111 - Standard
Beetle - LHD) but I leave that for the [A] FAQ. AUDI uses the same scheme
as well (?).
CHEMICALS
=========
NOTE:
This section lists some of the more useful chemicals to use on cars.
Be aware that many of these chemicals are harmful if used improperly and
could result in stripped paint, rubber becoming brittle, up to poisoning,
cancer and death.
Dispose of them environmentally!
See also the section of Waxing for body care chemicals.
Q: What are some of the useful chemicals to have around?
A: Cleaners:
---------
Brake Cleaner:
(Spray) Make sure it's not too harmful for rubber and keep it away
from paint.
Carb Cleaner:
Probably a bit dated by now, but the one that was most impressive
was Fire Dragon (Spray), however most others work fine as well.
If you have an oxy sensor and cat, make sure the stuff you get
is compaitible
I also used ChemClean to dunk the entire carb (see below)
FI/Valve Cleaner:
What ever you get make sure it does NOT harm catalytic conv or the
oxysensor.
The following are recommended and seem to work faily well. They are
added to a tank of gas, or fed directly into the FI system.
Lubro Molly: there are two products, an injector cleaner
and a valve cleaner. You can run the valve cleaner straight
through your injection system by hooking it to one of the
vaccum hoses and sucking it straight into the valves. Produces
lots of smoke but really helped my friends old 924. These are
expensive at $12-14 for both.
RedLine SL1: works very well and relatively cheap: $3.50 for the 12oz
bottle. My current favorite.
Chevron Techron: get the real thing, not the ProGuard stuff.
Not too expensive at $5.99/20oz bottle. (Imparts, others) Chevron
however, warns you not to use it too often between oil changes...
(I think no more than 5 treatments)
44K (BG Products): VW also recommends this more concentrated to be
used every 4k miles (= VW Part #208 (?)).
VW AutoBahn injector cleaner (rumored to be the same as Chevron Techron
for a lower price, for once).
Chevron ProGuard: only if none of the above is available. I used it
a few times, but couldn't tell a difference. I think it contains
Techron, but if you can get the real thing...
Note that ProGuard is a weaker version of Techron.
General:
--------
"Simple Green": General purpose cleaner (great and safe), engine cleaner
It's a non-oil soap (i.e., surfactant) based product that smells like
mint toothpaste.
"Chem Clean":
A can or bucket of chemicals that degreases bearings CVJs, or carbs REAL
fast (that stuff is amazing). It is however murder on skin and nails.
Hand Cleaner:
With pumice. Just buy a big vat. They are great, much better than
dishwash liquid or regular soap.
Lubricants:
-----------
Penetrant oil:
E.g., "Liquid Wrench". Eventually loosens stuck parts.
WD40 :
General purpose light "lubricant"/penetrant
Anti-Seize:
See below.
Case of engine Oil
Lithium Grease:
Spray can for hard to reach places
Molybdenum Grease:
For bearings (NOT CVJs!)
Talcum Powder:
For rubber components
Silicone Spray:
Good for lubricating non-metal components. Rumored to dry out rubber
though.
Paint/Body:
-----------
Body Paint:
For touch ups/scratches.
Primer:
I prefer cold galvanizing primer
Naval Jelly:
Rust remover (Phosphoric acid, i.e., coka cola).
Others:
-------
Brake quiet:
Sticky stuff to put on the pad *backing* to eliminate squeals.
Glues:
Depending on what you need to glue, use Epoxy, rubber cement,
RTV/Silicone Rubber, etc.
ThreadLocker:
See below.
Distilled water:
Battery & for coolant mixing
There is more, but buy some only as you need them because they may dry out.
Q: What should I do with Loctite Threadlocker (tm) and Anti Seize (tm)?
A: Use Anti-seize on anything that you will disassemble again and is subject
to corrosion (water pump bolts, wheel bolts, exhaust bolts), but be
careful on sparkplugs and oxygen sensors (it contains lead which kills
the cat, make sure it's on the threads only).
Use Loctite Threadlocker (medium strength is ok) on anything you don't want
to rattle loose and you cannot use serrated o-rings: Brake bolts, etc.
I use anti-seize the most, and if you torque things right, I never had a
problem of anything rattling loose.
Note that Loctite also seals out air, and therefore prevents corrosion
which means that disassembly will also be facilitated, compared to
something rusted shut. A small tube of each goes A LONG way.
Q: What power steering fluid should I use?
A: Be very careful most newer VW cannot use generic power steering fluid.
From the ND BBS:
Just read up in the manual and all VW's use ATF II up till april 89.
After april 89 use the special Petrosin hydraulic fluid CHF
ENGINE
======
Q: I have a very rough idle/stalling/hesitation/bucking problem when the car
is cold (or warm in some cases). What can I do to fix it?
A: This is an old problem that may have numerous causes. Mostly A2
Golfs/GTIs/Jettas/GLIs (8v & 16V) are affected. First make sure everything
"obvious" is ok: vacuum (hoses, pipes, intake), electrical connections,
tuned up right, spark plugs, distributor, good tank of gas, etc.
These are by far the most likely causes of this annoying problem.
[jan, 19930902, overheard in the VW shop]
VW is going to embark in some form of campaign, not sure whether it is an
actual NHTSA mandated one, to replace all the ECU's with one using gold
plated connectors, replace and reroute several vacuum hoses, and replace
the throttle body (the shaft has a radial play causing a vacuum leak in
some cases). I believe that recent Passats, A2 Jettas and GTIs are included
in this.
Depending on the model, do the following:
- Change to a different brand/type of gas (4-5 tanks) VW had a bulletin out
on this. They recommend Shell, Chevron & AMOCO(?)
- Use a good Fuel Injector Cleaner every 4000 miles. See Chemicals
for recommendations.
- Use fuel dryer (using ISOPROPANOL NOT Methanol)
- Check (idle) throttle switch
- Clean sensor plate or airmass sensor & throttle body orifices
- Change the fuel filter
- Clean idle stabilizer VALVE with brake or carb cleaner (VW&P) (Note:
Earlier cars had a Digital Idle Stabilizer circuitry (DIS) which is
something different, and *rarely* fails).
For RD (8V) series idle stablilizer problems (& others probably):
Symptom: Idles extremely rough when cold, improves after warmup. Doesn't
compensate for A/C compressor load when on.
Diagnosis: Disconnect the connector from the valve, measure resistance
from the center pin to each side, both should be about 12.5 ohms.
If either one reads high or open, replace it. (will be about $200 at your
Bosch dealer, owww).
Reason: The internals of the valve form a bidirectional DC servomotor,
the windings of which are connected through a commutator, which has a
nasty habit of arcing until the connection is gone.
- Check *all* vacuum hoses (inc. those going to the brake booster & the
brake booster itself)
- Check *all* air pipe connections (esp. between the throttle body & air
cleaner housing). Look around hose clamps, crimped ends, where there may
be relative motion and cause a tear.
- Check for vacuum leaks anywhere else, e.g., around the intake manifold.
- Check *all* electrical connections (see also later on bad grounds)
Be aware of the old "leak in the windshield molding or firewall
gommets that drips and shorts out the fuse box" problem.
Many A1's suffer that problem, especially those with badly installed
replacement windshield (most places, BTW).
- Check inside the distributor (carbon build up will cause misfires/bad idle)
- Check warm-up regulator/thermo switches
- Check proper working of the Oxygen [Lambda] Sensor (see Bentley)
Hint: Disconnect the O2 sensor, if the car runs better suspect that it
may be bad.
Replace if suspect. Some O2 sensors will last longer than their
expected 30/60k miles lifetime, others fail *much* sooner.
Resetting the warning light for maintenance is NOT a good substitute.
- Clean contacts of the ECU, and all engine management related components
with an aerosol contact cleaner (note: Newer VWs use gold plated
contacts, so this definite a problem area in older cars!)
- Check ground of ECU. There is a bulletin out on this. Usually this
failure is acompanied with black smoke billowing from your exhaust.
- Check fuel pump relay, it may have an intermittent failure. HARD
to diagnose, until it cuts out entirely. If it does die,
jump the two large terminals on the relay block to operate the pump
so you won't be stranded. [frank.sikernitsky@mail.trincoll.edu]
- Check the working of the injectors (incl 5th one).
- Check the injector O-rings (older cars)
- Clean the tank screen at the bottom of the tank or on the transfer fuel
pump (& also clean the tank if you find junk)
From WENDTM@FIRNVX.FIRN.EDU (Mark): When I pulled the hose off the intake
side of the fuel pump it only dribbled slowly from the tank! No Gusher!
That was a real clue that the tank was faulty, and not the pump. :)
- Clean the screen *inside* the fuel pump.
- Check whether the filtering banjo bolt (has a screen) near the fuel
distributor has been removed at the first service (mostly A2 cars with FI
in the US, don't know about Europe). It's replaced with a bolt w/o a
screen (Part nos: Screw = N 0210715 Washers = N 0138128, for *most* A2
cars). If it is left, it may clog or restrict flow.
- Check the health of the fuel pump(s) (measure the amount of current it is
drawing). Note, many A2s have two pumps!
- Improperly grounded potentiometer (90 Golf: scottz@pangea.Stanford.EDU)
- Check the CONTROL PRESSURE REGULATOR. Apparently the heating element
wears out, and it won't give correct pressure until it warms up
- Faulty oil pump relief valve. Pumps up the hydraulic lifters too much
limiting compression. Apparently mentioned in EuroCar.
- If nothing helped, you may need a new ECU! (The 91?,92? Jettas went
through 5 different ECUs, according to my mechanic).
- Catalytic converter clogged and breaking up. However, if that happens
it will rattle like a coffee can with coins in it.
- If the car bucks/loses power around 3000-4000 rpm when accelerating,
check the full throttle switch. seibed@lamar.ColoState.EDU (Edward Seibert)
- >>>> MORE????
- For Vanagons, see VANAGON_Stall in the archives.
Q: What oil filter should I use on my VW?
A: VW's, MANN's or Bosch (OEM). FRAM (PH2870) or other brands do NOT have the
same valving (backflow, bypass), valving rates, rigidity of construction,
and quality. The other brands will work ok, but you may be running a risk.
Several known cases of Corrado G60s blowing FRAM filters open. Some known
cases of Porsches ruining engines with FRAM filters due to inadequate
gaskets.
MANN filters are also available from Beck Arnley World Parts, and are
packaged under that brand, so they are much cheaper than the factory
filters.
The function of the bypass valve is to bypass the oil filter if the filter
is clogged or the oil is too viscous during a cold start. Dirty oil is
better than NO oil.
The anti-backflow valve prevents the oil from draining out of the engine
block into the oil pan. This means that oil will be available almost
instantaneously at a start up, which is also when the majority of wear
occurs (SLICK 50 is not lying about that). The VR6 engines have this valve
build into the engine!
[Jan: Compared to the SLC oil filters (~15-20US$), the regular filters now
seem cheap (~4-6US$)]
NOTE: Newer VWs DO NOT use the same filters as before. The G60 filter is
recognizable by the "nut" welded on the bottom, the SLC does NOT use a
filter but a replaceable insert (two kinds available, a short and a long
one, measure before you buy).
Q: I seem to be running hot. What should I do?
A: Check and do the following.
- Check your coolant level
- Check the concentration of your coolant
- Clean your radiator fins (do that with every wash)
- Check whether the fan still comes on at the correct temps
- Flush the system, check for calcium deposits inside the radiator
and tubes and check the thermostat.
Using destilled water in your mixture will prevent any deposits from
happening.
- Check whether you have the right pump. Some aftermarket pumps have
smaller impellers and therefore do not pump adequately.
- Check whether the bottom radiator hose collapse when the engine
is hot and running. Replacements exist that have internal coil
to prevent a collapse. Mostly A1 cars are affected by this.
- You may be running too lean
- Your temperature sensor may not be working right. Drop it in
boiling water and see what temp you read. May also be a problem
with your system ground.
See also the performance FAQ for other measures.
Q: How do I flush my cooling system?
A: [From ND]: The proper way to renew the coolant is to remove the thermostat
so as to drain the complete system.
[Jan: This is true for all 4 cyl cars, the VR6's have a drain plug located
right next to the dip stick.
Also don't forget to turn your interior heat to max as to drain that too.]
[ND] When we do a Coolant service at the shop we replace the thermostat and
o-ring with our special low temp 80 Celius unit from Germany.
[JAN] I am not sure whether that is advisable in colder climates
as the engine may never heat up.
If you still have the stock Fan switch we recommend
to replace it with the our low-temp unit which will allow the fan to
come on a little early to keep the temps down. If you replace the
thermostat we always drill a small air relief hole [1mm] in the main plate of
the thermostat so as to prevent a air pocket to develope at the
thermostatic bulb and cause the unit to stay closed. Just had a call
from a VW owner back east who had this problem. He called to thank me
for figuring out why his VW overheated after changing his thermostat.
[Jan: I usually don't do it that way, instead I loosen the upper
radiator hose and poor the coolant through several channels and then
squeeze the tubes to let the bubbles out. However, do carry the rest
of the coolant with you on your next drive just in case.]
Another trick to get around the airbubble problem came from Donald Borowski:
Heat up the thermostat on a pan of water until it opens, and then insert an
asprin pill as it closes. This will keep it open long enough to
fill the system and get the air out, and then will disolve.
I don't think that acetosalicylic (sp?) acid is very strong, and
the amount is rather small.
Q: I want to flush my cooling system. Where can I get phosphate free coolant
other than at the overpriced dealer prices?
A: Phosphates corrode aluminum (all VW heads) through an electrochemical
reaction with the cast iron block, which is why VW recommends to use
phosphate free coolants.
According to [scornelius@ws11.iac.honeywell.com] Aluminum oxide in solution
forms a black paste that makes a real mess, this will be visible inside the
coolant bottle once the corrosion process has started (I've seen this in a
custom street rod). So if you see a used VW with this condition, run
away....
According to [Vincent Yeung] who called Prestone:
Phosphate free anti-freeze is necessary in Europe because of
the very hard water they have there. Somehow the phosphate in
ordinary anti-freeze will react with the minerals in the hard
water. However, he said the water in North America is not as hard
and he knew a lot of VW with aluminum radiator have no problem
using ordinary anti-freeze with tap water.
In the US market, all the popular brands until recently (Prestone, Zerex)
contain phosphate in a buffered solution which keeps the phosphates in the
coolant from ionizing (so they claim), at least for a while.
I have used Prestone without seemingly ill effects, but if you want to be
100% sure, not void warrantee, use VW's coolant. Furthermore, mix with
DISTILLED water, NOT tap water. Also do not mix coolants of different
types. Flush the system before you change!
Newer coolants by Prestone (4/60), Arctic, Quaker State and
BASF's Zerex Extreme are phosphate free,
and are sold with different labels as to clearly identify the new product.
They are selling these phosphate free products for environmental reasons!
They all advertise around a 4 year-50/60k miles life expectancy.
Whether that's purely marketing (the stuff costs more) or a significant
difference over the original formulations (that probably will last that
long as well) remains unknown.
Unverified claims: Texaco's coolant is also Phos free.
Whether these have any long term harmfull side effects (probably not)
still remains to be seen (these products were introduce in 93 in the US).
Note that VW's coolant is also made by BASF, but seems to be
as slightly different formulation than their commercial Zerex product.
According to BASF, Zerex Extreme has been approved to be used in
VW, BMW, MB, Audi, Saab, and Volvo.
Sierra's new anti-freeze is based on Propylene Glycol (environmentally safe).
Propylene Glycol is used as a "light" oil substitute in foods and is
therefore not as deadly as Ethylene Glycol.
See also below for more details.
ND has the following to say about Sierra:
"Total marketing !! This is just another coolant with a different formula
and since most all coolant is recycled now the enviro aspect is mute.
This stuff will not work any better than any other coolant. Almost all
coolant nowadays is ok to use in your VW. Just make sure it was designed
for Aluminum heads which is almost all of them now."
Another thing to note is that VW claims that its original coolant
does not have to be renewed every two years like Prestone.
The reason they give that coolants like Prestone have sacrificing
chemicals that prevent corrosion for a certain period.
VW claims that their coolant does not have any sacrificing
chemicals and therefore does not wear out.
Personally, I don't think this is entirely true, and as a precaution,
I change the coolant of it turns color or every couple of years.
In some of the cars I have owned they coolant looked perfectly
fine, in others it turned reddish brown after a couple of months.
This is not an endorsement of either products. I have no idea as to their
effectiveness.
See also the archive file "Anti_Freeze" for additional details, and the
performance faq on improving heat transfer.
Q: What's the easiest way of removing a water pump (A1 & A2 VWs)?
A: The idea is to remove the *entire* pump assembly first, and separate the
pump halves outside of the car. To remove the entire pump assembly, you
have to remove all "fan" belts, pulleys, the drive belt covers, unbolt the
alternator and move it out of the way somewhere, unbolt and reposition
the power steering pump (easy once you locate the bolts, there is
one on "the other side" that needs to be accessed with a long extension bar,
don't need to disconnect the hoses), and unbolt and relocate the AC
(don't need to detach any hoses here either).
Then removing the pump is trivial. It's just the rest of the
stuff that's a pain, depending on the model.
Be patient, there are several hidden bolts/nuts that attach the AC and
power steering pump.
Tip: Loosen the pulley bolts BEFORE removing the belts.
If you are lucky, there will be enough resistance to keep the pulleys
steady. If not, I have gone as far as to use a pipe wrench to hold
the pulleys steady.
Another tip: If your pump leaks between the halves, it's safer to replace
the pump as one unit rather than the impeller half. Chances are that the
leaking pump is warped, and no matter how often you replace one half, it'll
*always* give you problems. Use anti-seize on the bolts during reassembly.
While you are at it, check or replace the thermostat. They do get lazy
after a while. Checking/replacing the hoses may not be such a bad idea
either (note: they last ~ 70k miles or ~10 yrs IMHO).
On A1 Diesels (maybe A2) however it's easier to remove the timing belt, and
then remove the impeller half of the pump. However [Borowski] the timing
belt need not be removed on cars without air conditioning. Once the
alternator bracket is removed, the water pump comes out easily.
Tip from Greg Welch:
Stay away from non-OEM waterpumps. Some are sold with smaller
impellers and as a result do not pump as well (you run hotter).
Q: How often should I change my drive belt?
A: 8 Valve engines, around 60-75k miles, 16V's BEFORE you reach 50k miles. 8V
engines will NOT be damaged if the thing breaks, 16V will be.
The VR6 engines use an actual chain rather than a synthetic belt and do not
have to be changed.
The only exception to the 8V rule is the Heron head used on European
A1 GTIs (not sold in the USA/Canada). It does interfere.
Note that tensioning the belt correctly is tricky, if it's too tight you
may prematurely wear out a bunch of bearings.
If it's on too tight, you'll hear a characteristic whining/high pitched
sound.
From [Lee Hetherington]: THE MORAL OF THE STORY IS TO SET THE TENSION BY
TRIAL AND ERROR BEFORE YOU PUT THE COVER BACK ON.
Q: I hear an intermittent high pitched chirping noise that comes and
goes when I rev the engine?
A: This could be caused by a bunch of things.
First check whether all the belts are on tight enough, but also not too
tight (there is a difference between a belt slipping, e.g., when you go
through a puddle, and a bearing being over stressed).
Remove all belts, and if the noise persists, suspect the drive belt
tensioner. (You can actually feel it vibrate when it chirps, but don't get
your fingers stuck).
They are easy and cheap to replace, see elsewhere for a replacement
tensioning tool.
If that's not it, and the drive belt is not on too tight (see above) then
you may be in trouble.
Q: How do I know whether my water pump is going bad?
A: Obviously if it starts to leak either through the pump half seam or the bearing (the little hole on the bottom).
However, there are also other failure modes you have to be aware of:
If the car makes a grinding whish-whish-whish sound when cold which
diminishes as you drive, the pump bearing may be failing and the impeller
is machining the pump housing into slivers.
To check for this condition, remove all belts, and spin the waterpump
pulley. If it turns well damped and smooth, it's fine. If it feels gritty
and crunchy, it's machining itself. If on the other hand it spins loosely,
the impeller may have detached itself from the shaft.
Note that you should not mistake the grinding whish-whish-whish
sound from a regular whish-whish-whish noise.
In this case the belts may be simply getting hard or the pulleys are out of
line.
To check for this, take a can of Silicon spray and spray it on the belts
while the car is idling. If the sound disappears immediately, you found the
problem.
Either replace the belts, or use some hard soap on them (but don't lose
your fingers for this either).
If the pulleys do not line up, check whether any of the bushing are worn
(e.g., the rubber alternator bushing as found on older A1 VWs is notorious
for wearing out). Otherwise use spacers and O-rings to get them to line up.
Q: Why the hole at the bottom of the impeller housing?
A: To keep the bearings dry. Moisture is the death of bearings. Seals are
never quite perfect, thus the hole. From: borowski@spk.hp.com (Don T.
Borowski)
Q: Where are the timing marks on A1 & A2 VWs?
A: At the top of the clutch/bell housing you will find a plastic plug. Pulling
the plug allows you to use a magnetic factory sensor. If you want to use a
strobe, you will have to *unscrew* the whole plug assembly. Then you'll see
a reference mark, and an arrow somewhere on the flywheel:
Mark in hole: [ ]
^
flywheel: |
Normally the two have to line up under normal idle & a strobe connected to
cylinder #1. Some cars require certain vacuum hoses or the idle stabilizer
to be disconnected. Check manual.
Note: Some cars (e.g. 87 & 88 GTI 16V) also have marks on the front pulley,
with an arrow on the end of the block.
Note: Excessive advance raises combustion temperatures and pressures, while
excessive retard extends the burning cycle through the exhaust and raises
exhaust temps. (Mark Shaw)
Q: My radiator leaks, what should I do?
A: Replace it. In most VWs this is pretty easy to do (1 hr), and a new
radiator (which is = OEM) can be had for around 100-150US$. The hard part,
esp. in older cars and in Europe, is finding the right radiator. Even VW
does not keep track of what car left the factory with what radiator.
Furthermore, the serial numbers are not very useful because they may not be
available anymore.
What you need to do is first measure the core length of the radiator, then
determine whether it has an external recovery tank, and then determine
whether it is screw in mount (mostly pre-82) or the newer pin-points
(Wolfsport has some good explanation of this).
Now you need to decide whether you want the same radiator, or a larger one.
Most VWs come pre-drilled to accept certain larger radiators.
Larger radiators are used in cars with A/C, or if the car is destined for a
warmer climate (though that may not be where the car is sold).
You also may want to install the largest possible radiator if you
autocross, do long desert runs or tow something.
A larger radiator allows a larger cooling capacity, which means it can
dissipate heat quicker. This does NOT mean that it will run cooler on
*average* because that's controlled by the thermostat (a.k.a. "aquastat" in
some places).
Some 3rd party places (e.g., JC Whitney) sell generic radiators with a
conversion kit which are much harder to install, and not recommended.
Whatever you do, avoid the temptation to use one of those Stop Leak
products at all cost because it'll block more than just your leak (like the
heater core). rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Q: What causes engine knock/pinging/detonation?
A: Too much advance. Check Timing. Also check VALVE timing. Too low gas
octane/too high engine compression. Engine overheating. Carbon build up on
valves. An improperly torqued knock sensor can cause the sensor to not
function correctly resulting in knock and/or loss of power. Failing knock
sensor.
NOTE: Do not mistake engine knock or pinging for other problems. Knock
occurs under load (e.g., accelerating, going up a hill, fast driving).
Knock seldom occurs under no load conditions (e.g., idle or revving the
engine). If you hear a rattle there it may be something else:
valves, bearing, wristpin slap, etc.
Q: I have an A2 VW and I hear buzzing from the rear of the car?
A: These cars have two fuel pumps: The transfer pump which is mounted *inside*
the gas tank, and the regular pump which pumps the gas to the fuel
distributor.
Just before you start the car (key in "on" position) you should hear a
slight buzzing that MUST go away after 5 seconds. Whenever the buzzing
noise becomes increasingly more audible while driving, it may indicate that
one of the pumps is about to fail. Changing the fuel filter may help.
Bentley manual has a procedure to check the health of the pump, basically
by measuring the current being drawn.
Cleaning the fuel filter screen with the transfer pump also seems to help.
The transfer pump makes a 'wugga wugga wugga' noise when the key is turned
on, and then goes away.
Q: I seem to have lost power?
A: Check the following:
- Vacuum hoses
- Fuel Filter
- Ignition timing
- Valve timing (belt may have slipped)
- Spark plugs
- Valve clearances (older cars)
- On G60's: Some batteries have an overflow tube that dumps acid on the
intercooler tubes => holes => loss of power.
- You may be running to hot, inducing knock, retarding timing in new cars.
- Other defects...
Q: What are the correct spark plugs for my car?
A: Check the manual, however the manual/Bentley/dealer may sometimes be wrong.
Here is some info collected over time:
Some regular Champions do not work well with VWs.
Bosch are the stock plugs, and work well in most VWs.
NGK seems to be a suitable replacement for some cars.
8 Valve up to 87: WR7D? where ? = S, P
9A Engines (16V from August 1989 - present):
Bosch FR6DS - ZVP121086S
Bosch F6DTC - equivalent (see differences below).
Corrado G60: Bosch W6DPO - VW# 251 201 511A (at 16US$ EACH!).
Corrado VR6: Bosch F7LC0R2 - Weird beast!
NGK ZFR6F-11 (VW now sells these as a replacement)
Champion C9MCC (OEM, manual incorrectly lists these
as Bosch plug, seem to work better
than the Bosch's)
(see also the Performance faq on additional sparkplug info).
Q: What does the Bosch spark plug number mean?
A: For example: WR7DTC
W = Diameter (?) W= 14 mm (?)
R = Resistor (Radio interference suppression, not vital(?))
7 = Heat Range (lower numbers = colder plugs)
D = Length (?)
T = Tri-cathode. If missing, single cathode
C = Copper Anode.
Other values, Missing = Carbon, S = Silver, P = Platinum
Q: Why is the G60 plug 15US$? What's so special about it?
A: The WR6DPO plug is closer to a performance plug because it gap is not
covered with the little prong but rather exposed to the combustion
chamber. Supposedly it gives you a better combustion and the engine runs
cleaner.
Conventional:
=== <==Gap
// []
-------
W6DPO
Gap
\/
= []
// []
-------
Q: Should I use Platinum plugs? [Note, Bosch & NGK & Others make them].
A: Only if it is recommended by either the sparkplug or car manufacturer. The
results have so far been mixed. Some people feel a marked and sustained
improvement over regular copper or silver plugs others felt a decrease in
performance and cold starting.
Q: How do I adjust the gap on Platinum sparkplugs?
A: Depending on the type of Platinum sparkplugs, to make the gap smaller, you
gently tap the cathode on a solid piece.
Q: I need to replace my muffler. What should I get?
A: See the performance FAQ and also the archives on this!
Q: How do I remove the oxygen sensor? It seems frozen.
A: [From: rkast2+@pitt.edu]
First you need the right 22mm wrench. And now the story from Rajiv: Then he
explained to me the secret of how he got it off.
[Applicable to the 1 wire systems attached to the exhaust manifolds ONLY,
the heat would ruin the catalytic converter, for those mounted on the
converter]
The sensor area needs to be heated, either by running and/or torch. Then,
you spray lots of penetrating oil into the slight crack, where it gets
sucked in by the pressure drop and by the cooling. This gets the lubricant
to the threads. (I remember hearing that drilling holes just to the threads
is a good idea). Keep doing this repeatedly and keep applying the wrench.
Sooner or later (took them 1 hr) it'll come off.
Q: What does an engine compression test tell me about the health of my engine?
A: There are different ways to check engine compressions, and they can reveal
specific internal defects.
General procedure:
1) Remove all spark plugs.
2) Ground center spark plug wire AWAY from the cylinders
3) Make sure you have a healthy battery & the car is at operating temp.
4) Attach compression gauge on cylinder 1
5) Put car in neutral & have friend push in clutch & accelerator
6) Have friend crank engine, note FIRST reading and reading after
pressure stabilizes (3-5 cranks).
7) Note down readings and repeat for all cylinders
8) A healthy engine should have all readings near mfr's spec, and should
be about +/- 10% of each other. If not...you are in trouble.
9) If one or more is low, but not adjacent cylinders (e.g. 1 & 3)
suspect either a burned valve or worn rings. If adjacent cylinders are
low, also suspect a bad head gasket or a warped head.
10) To determine whether it's rings or valve, do a leak down test => Add
a couple spoon fulls of regular engine oil to the engine through the
spark plug hole of the offending cylinder
11) Repeat measurement. If it remains low => Valve/Head, else if the
readings jumped up => Rings.
12) To distinguish between head vs valves => see a professional. They'll
lock the drive shaft, put air pressure on the cylinders and watch for
bubbles in the coolant fluid.
13) Also the first reading and the final readings should not be too far
apart.
Q: How often should I adjust my valves (gas engines)?
A: All/most? VWs made after 1985 have hydraulic valves, which adjust
themselves. Cars before that need periodic adjustments.
Check for the recommended intervals in your manual, do more frequently on
older cars & with periodic compression checks. Badly adjusted valves reduce
power, increase pollution and may lead to burned valves (valves cool thru
contact with the head).
It's a fairly easy job to do, you DO need two special tools: One to
compress the valves and one to remove the adjusting shims. They can be had
at most car specialty stores.
All VW engines based on the old 1500 thru 1800 block use calibrated metal
shims (tappets) the size of Alka Seltzer pills for adjusting the valves.
You first measure your clearance, then determine how much off it is, take
out the old shim, calculate what new size you need, and race of to your
parts supplier (or use a shim from another valve).
Q: What's a CAM "saver" cover, alias CAM splash guard, alias CAM cover baffle?
A: It's piece of plastic that fits between the actual CAM cover and the upper
CAM bearings (just wedged between the two). When the car is running, oil is
splashed around a lot in the CAM chamber (just try it...you'll have to
repaint your garage) and sometimes saturates the positive crankcase
ventilation valve.
The PCV is connected to the breather tube on top of the CAM cover and goes
to the airfilter box. When the PCV gets saturated it my drip oil into your
airfilter box. The CAM saver cover prevents oil from splashing directly on
to the inner CAM cover, and also allows oil to drip back directly on the
CAM providing extra lubrication instead of just sliding back along the
sides. Both VW and certain after market places sell these barriers for
about US$ 15.
Many of the newer VWs (87 GTIs) have such a barrier installed as stock, but
you can often retrofit your car with it as well.
Note that these things not always fit quite right... According to Graig:
You need to buy a new cam cover gasket set too as you'll be junking your
old one when you take the cam cover off. If you have an aftermarket cam
cover, trade it in for a factory one, as the actual oil breather itself has
a better baffle (rather than just a screen or mesh like in some aftermarket
ones). This is a safe preventive too, even if you don't autocross.
Everyone who even thinks of driving their VW hard should put one of these
baffles in there
Q: How do I remove bushings from a blind hole?
(For example: small bushing on the right side of the clutch throwout shaft)
A: There are several methods:
1) tap it (with a thread tap), screw a bolt into it, and draw it out.
2) this is real slick, and it often works (I use it for pilot bearings
fill the blind hole with grease, find a bar that fits nicely in the
bushing (often a junk part like the one that came out of it),
slug the bar with a hammer and the hydrolic press will force out
the bushing (really does work!!!)
3) You just get the appropriate bolt that will JUST thread into
the soft bushing material. As you thread it in to the bottom it will pull
the bushing out (when it hits bottom).
4) Cut/grind a washer so that it's just
barely bigger than the bushing on two sides, and smaller than the
bushing on the other two sides. Put a screw through the hole on the
washer. Work this washer into the blind hole until it gets BEHIND the
bushing (assuming the bushing doesn't go all the way back). Then
straighten the washer out so that the two long sides are against the
back of the bushing, and tug heartily on the screw with either a slide
hammer or a prybar, depending on which presents the best potential for
leverage (in my case, a slidehammer wouldn't fit into the confines,
but a pair of long-nosed Vise-grips worked perfectly -- the long nose
worked as a pivot point against a perfectly-positioned bulge in the
differential housing, sort of like a wheelbarrow, and a good tug got
the bushing out).
Q: How do I check (and remove) for the inline FI filter
in early A2 cars, and how do I remove it if there.
A: This filter is installed by VW apparently to filter out
contaminants remaining from manufacture that are in the fuel system *after*
the main fuel filter, but will continue to catch junk the main filter misses.
Pre-Digifant/Motronic A2's are affected (CIS, CIS-E).
Failure to remove this bolt may clog the system.
This filter is located inside the 'banjo bolt' that
connects the fuel line to the fuel distributor.
This bolt is hollow, and the filter, about the size of a long pencil eraser,
is hiding inside.
Here is the procedure I used to check for and remove the filter I
found in the GTI:
- Buy two copper washers to replace the ones on the banjo bolt,
or you will suffer a fuel leak like I did.
- HAVE A FIRE EXTINGUISER WITHIN ARM'S REACH!!
- Start engine, and pull the fuel pump fuse while it is running
to depressurize the fuel system, or a faceful of gas awaits.
- Remove the banjo bolt associated with the incoming fuel line
(don't confuse it with the return line) with a 17 MM wrench.
A small amount of fuel will dribble out, nothing a paper towel or
two can't handle.
- If your bolt is hollow, celebrate and put everything back together.
Torque bolt per Bentley's spec for your car.
- If you see something inside, try to poke it out through the side
holes in the bolt. That failing, whip out your drill with a 1/4
bit, and *gently* apply torque with the bolt supported in a vise.
In my case, the bit grabbed the filter, and I was able to withdraw
it. Admire the filth, then clean the bolt well before reinstalling
it with the new washers.
Alternatively, you can also buy the new screw
Part nos: Screw = N 0210715 Washers = N 0138128.
- Don't forget to put your fuel pump fuse back, or the car won't start!
Q: My exhaust bangs against the rear axle/my muffler hangers brake frequently.
A: This is a common problem on certain cars (e.g., A1 Sciroccos and
early G60 Corrados).
Check the following:
o Realign the exhaust pipes
o Check front engine mount(s)
o Replace the hangers with stronger units.
The most common hangers used in A1/A2 cars up to ~1991 look like
rubber donuts with some rubber in the middle. I bit like an "0".
There are two stronger versions of the "0" hanger available:
840 253 147 A: It looks a tad different but probably work;
171 253 147 G: This looks identical to the original "0" but has
has a chain molded internally and hence cannot be
twisted sideways nor break.
Some cars also use rubber donuts without a center piece:
191 253 147 A and they look like an "O" with a tab on one end.
The newer A2 & VR6 cars use a different hanger system, and those
hangers look more like a piece of stretched caneloni.
o One thing to keep in mind is that stiffer hangers may increase interior
noise (but may prevent your exhaust from bending).
o Instead of using one stronger one, I have had some success with doubling
up hangers.
ELECTRICAL
==========
Q: On the electrical diagrams, do the circuit numbers have any meaning?
A: Yes. VW uses Bosch numbering scheme, as do BMW & M-B. The most common ones
are:
1 = Ground (0 Volt)
15= Switched Positive (Hot when ignition is on)
30= Always hot "12 Volt" (even though it'll closer to 13.4 Volt)
Q: My battery is not charging well, I am only showing 12V when charging rather
than 13.4V. What is wrong?
A: There are numerous causes for this. Most of the time the problem is fairly
trivial. Going from cheapest to most expensive, try the following:
See also charge light diagnosis below.
- Check the ground connections, possibly install a new ground from
alternator to battery rather than using the engine block/transmission as
conductor. Forget trying to find the bad connection with an Ohm meter: Say
your alt. puts out 50 Amps, you'll get a drop of 1 Volt for each .02 Ohm!!!
Most VOMeters are not accurate enough in this range.
So, those tiny little resistances that have build up over the years REALLY
add up.
Use a THICK (10 or less Gauge/"AWG"), multistrand wire.
- Check the alternator wiring harness. Same reason as above.
- Clean all related connectors (sand paper, file).
- SOLDER ALL crimped connectors
- Check for an unusual drain (unlikely but possible)
- Check/clean/replace the alternator brushes (easy, see wear limits in
Bentley).
- Check the battery water level (use distilled water)
NOTE: DO NOT ASSUME YOU HAVE A MAINTENANCE FREE BATTERY BECAUSE IT
DOES NOT HAVE LITTLE SCREW TOPS. MOST VW BATTERIES ARE NOT MAINTENANCE
FREE AND THE WATER LEVEL SHOULD BE CHECKED PERIODICALLY!
- Have the battery checked (it may be shorting out)
- Have the alternator checked (diodes and regulator may be bad). Alternator
replacement is by the way trivial. If the alternator is bad, upgrade to a
higher amp one, especially in older cars and if you have a powerful stereo
system or aux lights 90 amp replacements are the current "hot" ticket. Euro
car had a detailed procedure on this about 1 or 2 years ago.
NOTE: Many car parts places will check out your alternator for free
or a very low cost. Sears used to do it for free in the US if you had
a DieHard battery, now they charge some nominal amount.
- Replace battery connectors with better quality ones.
(From D.J. Stern: number 1 or number 2 gauge Whitaker brass-terminal
battery cables.)
Q: My charge light does not behave as expected. What is wrong?
A: Taken from EC (March 1994):
The charges light is directly connected to the excitor part of the
alternator. It provides the initial power to get the alt working.
And it also provides alot of additional info:
Engine off, ignition on, no charge indicator:
- Lamp burned out, wiring break, internal alt failure, voltage regulator
bad. Alt will NOT charge!
Engine running, charge indicator on:
- Alt is not charging. Belt loose, bad voltage regulator.
Charge indicator on, engine & ignition off:
- At least one of the 3 diode groups is shorted. Alt is only partially
charging. Have it serviced/replace diodes.
Charge indicator out at idle, half intensity at higher rpms:
- At least one of the 3 diode groups is open. Alt is only partially
chanrging. Have it serviced/replace diodes.
Charge indicator glows dimly under electrical load (most noticable at night):
- Bad connection between alt and battery (see above).
Q: Starting problems (hot or cold).
A: Check out the electrical connections, and battery (see above under
charging). Also check out functioning of the solenoid.
If the problems occur only with a hot engine, consider the VW
solenoid package that will cut out most other drain when starting,
or the heat shield package (also from VW) for the starter.
Q: What do the H1, H2...H4 designations mean?
A: These are the type of Halogen bulbs used in US non-sealed beam lamps
(reflector & glass) since 1985 and longer for the rest of the world. The
same lamps are also used in fog/driving lamps. They are available in
regular strength (around 55 W) and more.
H1 - Single filament lamp
H2 - Single filament lamp?
H3 - Single filament lamp?
H4 - Dual filament lamp
These bulbs can be had at different strengths:
H1 55, 100, and 130 watt
H4 - 55/60, 55/100, 80/100, 80/130, 100/150 watt
Anything bigger than the 55/100 -100 H1 you must have relays or you will
fry the pins in the back of the fusebox.
Note that only the stock strength are strictly legal.
Tip: When installing new (Halogen) light bulbs in your car, make sure you
DO NOT touch the glass part of the light bulb with your fingers.
This is because the oil from your fingers gets so hot that it makes the
bulb really hot and it explodes. [If you do, clean it off with a high
concentrate alcohol: methanol, ethanol or isopropanol].
Q: What's that extra bright red light on some European cars?
A: That's a "Hinternebelshutslicht" (sp?), or rear-fog anti-crash light. Many
of the newer cars shipped to the US have these incorporated (but not
connected) into the rear lenses [Corrados, Passats, Audis]. Very effective
in fog, snow and heavy rain.
Q: Why does my fog light switch have two positions that do not have any
effect?
A: It's to switch on the rear fog light(s), which is often not connected in
cars shipped to the US & Canada.
Q: Why should I use Dielectric grease, and on what?
A: Dielectric grease is a NON-conducting grease that seals out moisture and
therefore prevents corrosion on electrical connectors. This also happens to
be one of the main problems with older VWs, and currently one of the causes
of bad idle/ecu (connector) failures. The jury is still out on this
grease... some claim it will get hard. Others have suggested to use a
conducting paste as used on aluminum residential wiring. The latter will
aid in conduction, but should not be used in high voltage cables (spark
plugs) or where several wires are adjacent because of potential shorts.
Q: I lost the code for my radio. How can I get it back?
A: The only sure way is to contact the dealer, but you may end up
paying close to 100$ for either the code or a recode.
Some suggest freezing the radio overnight which will reset the
code to 0000, though it may also kill the LCD display.
Hold on that code in a very safe place!
Q: My radio never locks up if I disconnect the battery eventhough
it is claimed to be a coded radio?
A: The code has to be activated before it will lock up the radio.
This is normally done right after you buy the car, but nowadays
with the sad dealer service it is often overlooked.
See the "coding radio" archive on how to do this, but it basically
comes down to entering the code as though the radio had locked up.
Q: How often should I replace my spark plug wires? How can I check them?
A: Many of the performance shops recommend you change them every 30-50k miles.
I am not convinced whether this is really needed.
The general rule of thumb is that the wire's resistance should be
around 12kOhms per foot, and not more than 50kOhms/foot.
Check also for the specific values in the car's manual.
Q: How can I install programmable wiper control in my car like the new
cars have?
A: The programmable wiper control allows you to program the interval time.
Because VW does not like to add new knobs and wires, they have put all
the control in the relay in a type of teach and play back mode.
If your old windshield wiper relay part number is 191 955 531,
then you can swap it with the programmable unit: 357 955 531 or
the new number 1HM 955 531B for under US$40.
Note, APS sells these control units for about 10US$ less. The APS part
number is: 25-955.531
To program is easy: Push down on the w-w lever, have it wipe once, bring
it up and wait until you need to wipe again, then push it down.
It'll use the same wait interval! Very clever, but not obvious.
TRANSMISSION
============
See also the archives G60_Xmission_Mods, faq.vw.perf, Solid_Shifter,
Adjust_Linkages, TrannySwaps, clutch, tranny.lube
Q: What shift mechanisms do VWs use over the years?
A: A1 & A2:
Mechanical linkages
Corrado & Passat:
Cable linkages (The SLC/VR6 uses a SIMILAR mechanism as the G60,
contrary to some "knowledgeable" car mags. The main difference is a
counter weight on the SLC, and a different mounting bracket)
A3:
Mechanical linkages with counter weight, ?Cable linkages on VR6?
Q: What size clutches did VW use over the years?
A: According to Peter Tong:
There are 4 sizes. 190mm early gas rabbit (A1s), 200mm diesel rabbits,
210 mm 83-84 GTI, 85-92 G/J/ (A2s). I think Sachs also sells a 215mm clutch
kit as well - aftermarket.
Many clutches in these sizes come for road and racing applications.
You can also combine clutch discs with different strength pressure plates
as well. 16V clutch is similar but has provision for the AGB tranny's
larger input shaft.
See also the performance FAQ on sport clutches.
Q: How can I improve shift effort/meshing of my gears? First gear feels like
there is something blocking it?
A: First check out the linkage adjustments, regrease where needed, and older
cars, possibly replace the old linkages/bushings. A special spacer tool is
needed for one of the adjustments (A1 & A2) which happens to be exactly the
same size as the skinny side of an audio cassette. Other special tools may
be needed.
The end of the shift lever has a ball on it that fits into a cup.
The cup wears and allows the ball to ride lower and lower. Pretty soon,
the ball, with shifter attatched, is riding so low that you don't need
to push down to bypass the reverse lock out.
All you need to do is replace the ball and cup. While you're in there,
replace theshifter bushings for the feedthrough.
See the Bentley manual for an excellent description.
BTW, you'll most likely have to drop the exhaust to get at the parts.
I have done this operation several times on various models, and can
honestly say that it can be done in about 2 hours or less if you
have a torch to remove the old exhaust clamps.
Also check out whether the motor/transmission mounts are ok, misalignment
will cause shifting problems as will a dragging clutch.
If your shifting effort is hard/stiff on cold days & grinds in 1st & 2nd,
but easier once warmed up you may want to change to a synthetic
transmission fluid (see performance FAQ).
Also see the G60_Xmission_Mods, faq.vw.perf, Solid_Shifter for adding a
counter weight to the shift linkages for a more "solid" feel, and
Adjust_Linkages.
Q: First gear grinds?
A: Shift into third thirst then shift into first.
Q: How can you tell if your synchro is REALLY shot?
A: Let the car idle, and with out depressing the clutch move the gear
shift into the gears you want to test.
If the synchros are more or less ok your idle will dip (or as I found out,
your car will start to move) w/o crunching.,
If however they are shot, you'll hear a big grinding sound.
Don't try it with the reverse gear, it has no synchro an will crunch
majorly.
Q: What's a CV Joint?
A: Constant Velocity Joints (Joint Homokinetique (Fr)) connect the two ends of
your two drives shafts to your differential and the wheels. They allow the
drive axle to move and allows you to transmit power when you turn. The
closest equivalent is a Universal Joint.
Q: How do CV Joints go bad and how can I prevent it from happening?
A: CV Joints wear out over time, like any other moving part. However they wear
out prematurely when the boot that surrounds them cracks and lets in dirt,
or when the CV grease deteriorates.
The boots crack because of age or because of street debris, and therefore
the outer CVJs (esp. with the more exposed CVJs in A1 cars) are most
subject to tearing. To detect a tear in outer CVJ boot is easy: it'll throw
black grease all around your inner rim, around your brake.
Whenever you check your tire pressure, check for those signs.
To detect a rip in an inner CVJ boot, and small cracks in the outer, you
need to manually inspect them. If you detect a ripped boot early, you can
get away by merely repacking the CVJ boot with CVJ grease and a new boot.
NOTE: VW and Loebro sell boot kits, that includes everything you need for
the job (about US$15).
If on the other hand, you did not detect the rip early, or you hear a
knocking sound when you turn, you may have to replace the entire
CVJ, a messy procedure requiring special tools.
Other symptoms of a bad CVJ includes increased & uneven steering effort
while driving.
CVJs also fail because the CVJ grease deteriorates over time because of
heat exposure.
Here too the outer ones get the most beating because of the heat generated
by the brake disks.
Generally, you should repack the outer (& change the boots) every 60k
miles. The inner ones usually last closer to 100k miles. If however you see
pitting and scoring of any of the inner surfaces you may as well replace
them.
Tip: [First heard from WolfSport, reported by [Borowski]) There are many
times when both wheel drive shafts need to be removed (two torn boots,
etc.) This is a perfect opportunity,to switch the CV joints to the opposite
sides. They will then wear on different internal surfaces, extending their
life.
Q: What tool should I use to remove my inner CV Joint (driveshaft-to-drive
axle flange) bolts?
A: Most VWs use an 8mm 12 point internal spline, aka CV Joint tool aka triple
square.
Snap On triple-square CV socket, Part number (3/8" drive) = FTSM8C.
KD #2304, fits in a 5/16" socket.
Also available from other brands/dealer.
According to Greg Moore: It's also the same fitting as is on the teardrop-
style alloy wheel covers. [Verified: Tom Coradeschi]
Q: How do I know my front wheel bearings are shot?
A: They'll make a roaring "wowowowow" sound, and the noise may change
depending whether you are heading straight or turning. Special tools are
needed to remove the bearing (cost ~150US$) though the bearings themselves
are around 30US$/each. Certain performance places listed above will sell
bearings packed with synthetic grease (last much longer, racing
applications).
BRAKES
======
See also the archive files: Repco_MetalMasters, Rear_Brakes_Tool,
Solid_Shifter, Adjust_Linkages, and faq.vw.perf
Q: What brakes do VWs come with?
(Note the dates are +/- 1 yr).
A: Pre-80:
Fronts= (A1) Teves or Girling discs (early Euro had drums as well)
Rears = (A1) drums, non-self adjusting
Post-80:
Fronts= (A1/A2)
Kelsey Hayes ("Banana pads"): Sciroccos 8V, GTIs 8V
Girling: 16V Sciroccos, >90 Passats & Corrados
Non-vented rotors on most initially, vented for higher end cars.
Rotor diameter increased over the years.
ATE: Wolfsburg-built GLIs 8V
Rears = (A1/A2)
self adjusting drums
Teves disc (high end)
Girling: Wolfsburg-built GLIs 8V
General:
Later cars have brake proportioning valves, several types used, some are
with the master cylinder (e.g., 84S) others are in front of the rear
axle beam on the left hand side.
Front Vented Rotor Sizes:
239 mm (9.4") A1/A2 models
256 mm (10.1")
280 mm (11" 4 hole, 6 hole for VR6) Corrados, Passats
Rear Solid Rotor Size:
226 mm (9.0")
For 14" wheels, you can go up to 10.1" rotors (and the matching
calipers). For 13" wheels, 9.4" rotors is your max. If you want the
11" rotors of the corrado, then you need 15" wheels! :-)
See also Brake_Upgrades
Q: I need to change my brake pads, which should I get?
A: This is a tricky question, and depends on what car you drive and whether
you were happy with what you had.
Normal driving, no problem with fade:
Stock VW, or Mintex Silver pads. Repco Semi-Metallic are ok as well. Others
like or prefer Wagner Pads.
Autocross:
Repco Metal Masters. Be aware that many have reported that these pads
require significant more pedal pressure, especially when cold.
Advantages: Fade resistant, less brake dust, no squeal.
Q: Is it easy to change pads/shoes?
A: On most newer VWs, changing front pads is next to trivial. Rear pads
require more work because the piston needs to be screwed in which is either
done with a allen (hex) wrench or a special tool. Rear shoes (drums) are
probably the hardest, but still easy enough. Follow Bentley and/or Muir.
Q: Do I need to turn my rotors each time I change pads?
A: Another religious issue...
In general: NO, unless your rotors are badly scored. If they are warped,
replace (it's cheap and easy to do). Call places like APS & WolfSport.
Note: If you take the rotors off yourself, turning them at a machine shop
costs very little.
Q: How often should I bleed my brakes and change the fluid?
A: Brake fluid should be changed AT LEAST every two years. Bleeding should be
done yearly and after an Autocross. Brake fluid absorbs water which
corrodes the lines. Bleeding regularly will significantly increase safety
and life of your brake components.
DOT 4 fluids have a higher boiling point than DOT 3 fluid but are also more
hydrophilic and therefore must be replaced more frequently than DOT 3.
Q: What brake fluid should I use?
A: Check the manual. Most older VWs use DOT 3. The newer ones use DOT 4 or
Super DOT 4 (higher boiling point). Castrol makes one which is both DOT 3
and 4 compatible with a very high boiling point.
The only place I have found Super DOT 4 in the US is at the VW dealer.
One of the dealerships here also recommends Wagner as an aftermarket DOT 4
oil.
The higher the boiling the better: Brake -> heat -> fluid boils -> bubbles
-> loss in brake pressure -> crash.
Q: How do I remove the screw that holds the front rotor in place?
A: If a screwdriver & liquid wrench does not work, try an impact screwdriver.
It's a screwdriver that makes a 1/4 turn when hit by a hammer.
Tip: When changing the rotors, make sure you put a bundle of anti-seize on
the inside of the new rotors so they do not get stuck to the hub.
Also remove as much rust and gunk so that the rotors seat well.
I had to take mine off the hard way: Heat until red, cool with cold water,
hammer and use a pry bar.
Also make sure you antiseize the screw that holds the rotor in place. If
the head is messed up you can try reslotting, but chances are it won't help
either.
If the screw head is messed up be extremely careful with those easy-offs/
screw or tap extractors.
When they break, you cannot get them out.
Andy's recommendation is to drill out the screw with the right diameter
drill instead, rethread, and put in a new screw of a larger diameter. You
don't want to make the hole too big either, though you could use a thread-
locker to come back to the original size.
Note that that screw is not vital! It only holds the rotor temporarily in
place until the wheel bolts torque the rim/rotor/hub sandwich together.
Q: I hear a "clunk" each time I brake/start?
A: Check whether all the anti-rattle springs are still there (two per
caliper).
Q: How do I prevent my brakes from squealing?
A: Chances are that you have the original semi-metallic VW brakes pads, which
are notorious for this.
First line of defense is to get that "anti-brake-squeal goo" (comes in a
tube or a spray can) and apply it to the BACKS of all your pads. That stuff
is essentially liquid high temp rubber that will dampen vibrations.
The second line of defense is to change to a different brake pad brand.
See the Repco_MetalMasters file on this subject.
(In short, do not get Repco MM's unless you want to race, their Semi-
Metallics are closer to stock in brake feel, while someone else recommends
Wagner pads.)
Q: When standing on the brake pedal, my foot slowly sinks to the floor? What's
wrong?
A: You either have a leak or your master cylinder is shot. Don't bother trying
to rebuild the master cylinder, unless you have access to high precision
tools. Mexican made replacements tend not to last long. Get the German OEM
ones or the VW one (same thing, more $$$$).
Q: Problems with rear drum brake lock up?
A: This can have many causes:
- Out of round drums. Have them turned or replaced (easy, cheap)
- Change shoes
- Out of adjustment or self adjusting mechanism not functioning right
- Handbrake cable out of adjustment
- Proportioning valve out of adjustment or faulty
- Incorrect cylinders installed (17mm vs 14 mm, they look very similar but
make a 40% in brake pressure!)
- Faulty master cylinder.
Q: What grease should I use on the rear axles of my VW.
A: A high quality Lithium based grease with Molibdenum disulfide (MoS2) (all
VW shops have switched to this).
In general you can use "Moly-Slip" grease where you used to use the old
"White Lithium" grease. MoS2 works a bit like graphite in that it doubles
the lubrication properties of the base grease.
Note: Generally do not mix greases of different base, e.g., an Aluminum
based grease with Lithium base. They may react and lose lubrication
properties. Note2: CV Joints use a special grease, less viscous grease.
>>>>VOLUNTEERS>>>>?????
Needed: diagnosing problems
MAINTENANCE
===========
One of the best ways to keep your car alive is to perform periodic
maintenance.
Here is some data that applies mostly to the newer A2 cars.
This data came from the VW manuals, Bosch dealer, and New Dimensions.
New Car
-------
Do not change the oil until after the recommended initial 7500 miles.
Apparently VW uses a special oil to break in the car. Do check the oil
level on new cars frequently.
Oil Change
----------
It's a religious issue. The following seems to work:
Mineral Oils: every 3000 miles or 5000 kms or 6 months
Synthetics: every 7500 miles or 12000 kms or 12 (?) months
Change oilfilter at the same time
Fuel Filter (FI cars)
---------------------
Every 60 k miles (eventhough VW now claims it's not needed)
OxySensor
---------
Older A2s with Non heated sensors: 30k miles
Newer A2s with heated sensors: 60k miles
Do NOT neglect this. You will NOT be saving money because if the
sensor goes bad it will quickly take your catalytic converter with it.
And those are EXPENSIVE!
Plugs
-----
Newer A2s: Every 30 k miles
I often check them (gap) and clean them every 15k miles
Transmission Fluid
------------------
Synthetic Fluid: replace every 90k miles
CVJoints
--------
Repack:
Coolant
-------
Every two years or when it turns murky
Brake Fluid
-----------
Renew every two years
Purge every year
Drive Belt
----------
8V: 100 k miles, but safer at 75k miles
16V/A1 Euro GTI: 50 k miles
Belts
-----
Every 60 k miles. Put old ones in trunk.
Coolant hoses
-------------
Unclear, but they seem to last about 100-200 k miles.
If you see one go, replace them all because you'll never remember
which was changed when.
TIRES/RIMS/SUSPENSION
=====================
NOTE: Most tire/rim/suspension questions have been moved to the performance FAQ.
The reason for this is that buying stock tires/rims/shocks is often
more expensive than buying a better product.
Q: How do I know whether my shocks are worn out?
A: Shocks either lose their damping capability or freeze up. The result is
that your car may not handle well (or safely). When you bounce the front of
the car, a good set of shocks will stop the motion in less than one cycle:
Bounce the car couple times, let go, and it should go up and a small amount
down and then STOP.
Just look at your old mechanics/physics books for damped and undamped
impulse response of a spring and damper combination.
Test for seizing: you press down, and it stays down. Note that Sport Shocks
may be so stiff that it will barely move when you press down.
Note also that this failure mode occurs mostly on A1 cars which put too
much side loads on shocks.
I [Jan] went thru several virtually indestructible Bilstein sport shocks
due to this failure. Hold on that receipt for life time warrantee!!!!
Also suspect your shock if you hear an excessive amount of swishing.
That's cavitation (local boiling of oil) which usually accelerates wear.
"Gas" shocks contain a chamber of pressurized gas that keeps the oil under
pressure and prevents cavitation, increasing damping capabilities and
reducing wear.
For the front "shocks" you have two choices for replacement: You can either
buy an entirely new strut (which is the whole assembly, usually sold in
combination with springs) or replace the shock insert in your existing
strut (cheaper, more work). Most of the time you replace the insert.
The rear shocks are replaced as a whole, and fairly easy to do yourself.
Note that the fronts tend to wear out long before the rears.
Note, if you replace the front shocks you may want to consider replacing
the upper strut bearings.
Q: How do I know upper strut bearings are worn?
A: Those are the black rubber and brass metal that stick out of your shock
towers. They fail in two ways:
- Rubber gets stressed out: They'll stick more than ~1.5 cm above the shock
towers
- Metal bushing worn: Steering will feel loose, you may hear a clunking
noise at times. They are not that expensive (ca 25US$), and easy to
do once you get the strut out of the car.
(Mark Shaw) says something similar: If I can get the tips of my fingers
between the top plate and the housing with the vehicle standing on a level
surface, then the strut bearing has seen enough abuse. This was passed on
to me by a friend who works at the VW Proving Grounds south of Phoenix. He
also recommends that you use the ones with the "A" suffix on the part
number ([jan] note many aftermarket places sell heavy duty versions of
these, probably those with an "A")
I do not change them unless the strut cartridges are also weak. Experience
has shown me that in all cases strut bearings should be replaced when the
strut cartridges are replaced.
Note also that (Norm Heckman): A drop of 3/4" was given as a limit for auto
safety inspection rejection in N.Y. state. (drop = after you jack up the
car).
Q: What is the proper tire inflation for my car?
Should I use the number printed on the side of the car?
A: Probably the best tire pressure to follow for average driving
is the one printed on the door jamb, or listed in your manual
of the car...at least it's a good starting point.
When the tires are new, measure the profile depth on the sides and
in the center of the tire, for all tires.
Measure again after you have driven couple thousand miles/kms.
The wear should be more or less even accross the entire tire width, with
a bit more wear on the front than the rear tires (FWD cars!).
This naturally assumes that your alignment is correct.
If you find that the centers of the tires are wearing more, decrease
pressure, if you find they are wearing less, increase pressure
(radial tires, bias plies behave differently).
If you find that the side of the tires are wearing uneven
(or see other oddities), you may need an alignment.
(See also the alignment archives on this).
Generally if you load up your car with alot of weight, it's recommended
to increase your tire pressures.
Similarly, if you are planning to drive at high speeds for a longer
period of time, increase the pressure.
This will reduce tire flex, and hence will produce less heat build up.
Also keep in mind that underinflation is one of the worst things
you can do to a tire for that very reason.
Higher tire pressures are also recommended to reduce the chance of
rim damage with softer rims (e.g., 1990 Corrados, some 16V rims).
The number printed on the side of the tire is merely the maximum
inflation pressure for that tire, and is not meant to indicate the
inflation pressure for your car.
For performance driving see the performance faq.
Q: What shocks are interchangeable between cars?
A: Here is a list of what is interchangable between the various
VW models in the strut-shock area. [From ND BBS]
A1 Models = 75-88 Scirocco 75-84 Rabbit (Golf 1) 80-92 Cabrio
80-83 Pickup (front only) 80-84 Jetta 1
know as A1 suspension design most US models use
internal threaded struts ( can swap for external)
all other use the same inserts and strut bearings
Springs vary according to models
A2 Models 85-92 Golf and Jetta 2 93- Golf and Jetta 3
slight
mods needed to A3 to use A2 struts as all A3 and some
late A2 have sealed (throw away) struts housings.
Springs vary
Others Corrado G60 models can use A2 shocks in the rear
but front are same dimensions but use a larger shaft
and are designed for higher weight load.
Strut housings are similar Strut bearings look the same
But I believe the Corrado ones are stronger. We now
offer HD strut bearings (VR6 Golf) for all the A2 style
Q: What do all those numbers mean on my tire.
A: See the rec.autos FAQs, the tire FAQ, and also the VW Performance
FAQ for size info.
For the other number:
The last 3 numbers on the DOT code is the build date: 113
means the tire was made in the 11th week of 1993, or 015 = 1st week of 1995.
BODY/INTERIOR
=============
Q: My door sags, how can I straighten it?
A: [From an old WolfSport catalog:] Place a 15 mm socket between the arm and
foot of the lower hinge (to the outside of the hinge anchor bolt). You'll
have to almost close the door to get & keep it in place. Now gently! exert
some force on the door & the check alignment.
[From Jim Macklow] I've had success with my wife's Rabbit by doing the
following: Open door, then jack up door with floor jack, making sure the
door is closed as far as possible.
Q: How do I eliminate all the rattles, squeaks and buzzes in my car?
A: VWs are unfortunately well known for this. Part of the cause is the rather
stiff suspension and hard motor mounts that just rattles the car apart.
Often the fix is easy once you find the cause. The following are a few
tricks that I have used over the year that will help eliminate a good deal
of them.
Tip: Start with cleaning the inside and outside of the car, and remove all
the coins and pens stuck in the seat rails. Then take a screw/nut driver
and fasten all accessible interior screws and bolts. If a particular
screw/bolt loosens frequently, use Loctite (tm). The bolt that holds the
seat back adjustment knob is notorious for loosening and rattling. Have
someone drive around while you go around and isolate where all the noise
comes from.
Another weird one that helps with some rattles and groans is to install a
lower stress bar on A-1 cars that do not have one, and apparently an upper
shock tower stress bar on all others (haven't tried this yet, but Aaron @
APS claims that it helps surprisingly well).
Q: Something in my dash rattles?
A: That's probably the most common and most annoying place for it to happen.
VWs have actually improved over the years and so we can learn from their
attempts to reduce rattles. Most of the rattles are caused by loose wires
and components touching the vent tubes or other solid material. VW often
uses electric tape to hold things together, but over time the tape loosens
and falls off. What you need to do is get a bunch of tie wraps, bundle
everything back, get some "nerf foam" or sheets of black felt and position
it between the wires, vents and other stuff. Using felt or foam between
interior vinyl covered body panels also helps eliminate a lot of squeaks
there.
(Note that Corrados now have strips of black felt glued to the back of
virtually all plastic panels).
Another type of dash squeak is caused by plastic components rubbing against
each other. Usually a dose of ClearGuard will help eliminate that but if
you have the space try glueing some felt between the two.
A tip from (Tim Hogard): Tighten the the two nuts that hold the dash in
that are on the engine side of the firewall.
Q: My doors/hatch/vinyl squeak over bumpy roads, especially when cold?
A: "Lubricate" the door seals with Talcum powder or ClearGuard. "Lubricate"
the rest with ClearGuard or Silicone spray. You may also want to adjust the
doors so they close better by first loosening the strike pin and moving it
either in or out. The rear hatch lock can also be moved a bit, but it's
easier to adjust those black knobs on either side of the hatch. They screw
in and out.
Q: My suspension groans when I go over a speed bump/other bumps?
A: Check for squeaky muffler hangers, and sway bar bushing!
Squeeky Muffler hangers sounds like: eee-eee-eee as you drive along.
Sway bar bushings squeek when you go over a bump slowly, e.g.,
a speed bump. It sounds like: eeee--aaaa, eeee-aaaa.
Start with Si-spray. It usually cures the noise temporarily,
but at least you will be able to identify where the noise is
coming from.
For a more permanent sway-bar bushing noise solution, especially
if you have an aftermarket sway bar with polyurethane bushings:
try the following:
1) Check the alignment of all the components.
2) Relube the bushings with a Silicone-Teflon grease.
APS's sway bars now come with this grease and it works fairly well.
3) Here is a trick that I have not tried as yet: Score the bushings
with coarse sand paper or fine saw. This will leave little
indents where the grease can settle rather than squeezed out when
you reassemble the bushings.
The same tricks can be used for other rubber based suspension components
(e.g., A-arm bushings).
Q: Something in my door rattles?
A: First make sure it's not a screw which is loose (lots hidden away). If
that's not the case then take the door panel off and check all the screws
inside. Tighten, use Loctite, possibly use foam and felt to prevent
components from banging against each other. Some recommend installing a
sound deadening material such as Dynamat (tm).
Before putting the door panel back, you may want to use some foam strips
(like the window air seals) to provide some spacing for the snaps.
While you are at it, clean the drain holes and lube the lock & window
mechanism.
Q: How should I take care of my car's exterior? What products to use?
A: Wash on a regular basis. First, hose down car, don't aim at locks, gas cap,
etc. Also hose down the radiator & underside of the car.
Use one of the available car wash products in a bucket & sponge down car.
(All this to be done in the shade).
I have tried several types of shampoo, like the RainDance, dislike the
Meguire's shampoo, others like Blue Coral. Other suggestions are welcome.
Rinse sponge often to avoid scratching the paint. Generally work from
cleanest areas (roof) to dirtiest (front sides) of car.
Avoid rubbing too hard as you may scratch the surface.
Keep car wet (on a dry day in CA, the car dries almost instantly leaving
water marks).
Hose down soap, and with a fresh bucket of water and a chamois or a
synthetic chamois, dry car.
Again, rinse the rag as often as you can.
Wax at least twice a year, with a good brand of wax. Wax only after the car
has been thoroughly washed. Follow the directions of the product and either
use clean rags or cotton wool to apply wax.
Why wax? It puts a protective layer over your paint, and replenishes lost
oils.
Hard waxes (e.g., Carnuba based waxes) tend to last longer but require a
lot of work.
[Note: Latest word on this is that these waxes contain
hardly any Carnuba any more]
See what the local body shop uses (the one I visit use Meguire's
professional line of products, but it's by no means the only wax. I like it
as well (Hi Tech Yellow Wax #26), used to use RainDance wax but stopped
because it is rumored to be too abrasive, hated Nu-Finish.
The ultimate is Zymol, 800-999-5563, but it costs a lot! Others have
had good results with Mother's.)
Wax horizontal surfaces more frequently (hood, roof).
If rain does not bead up and slide off the car, it's time to rewax.
Polish your car sparingly, e.g., if you want to get rid of swirls,
scratches or an oxidized layer of paint.
Polishes contain fine grit and therefore are rather abrasive.
You can get polishes with different grades of grit #2, e.g., see Meguire's
line of polishers: Swirl Remover #9 (to be used last),
Fine Cut Cleaner #2 (leaves a dull finish, removes small scratches), etc.
The coarsest version of a polish is a rubbing compound.
It will not leave a shine, and works just like a piece of sand paper.
It is mainly used to even out portions that were repainted.
Note that you can buy 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit sandpaper which in some
cases is actually finer than some rubbing compounds.
They may come in handy when you are trying to smooth a repainted scratch.
Note that many "waxes" contain both detergents and polishing compounds.
Some work quite well (e.g., DuPont's Rain Dance) but some find it too
abrasive for frequent use. That's why it's better to use non-abrasive
waxes, and only polish when you need it.
Glazing compounds are a bit like wax:
they replenish lost chemicals in the paint, but the protective layer they
provide does not last very long (e.g., Meguire's Show Car Glaze #7).
For a deep shine I often first use a glaze then
a carnuba wax. I have tried some of the supposed once a year hi-tech
"coverings" but was rather underwhelmed by the result.
To get the wax off the black trim, use some detergent or Simple Green & a
toothbrush. Then apply something like Armor All or ClearGuard. I believe
the latter is the current favorite. Don't hesitate to use this stuff on all
rubber components. It'll slow the ageing process a bit.
Others have reported favorable (better) results with Turtle Wax's Black
Chrome product for black bumpers and Westley's Black Magic.
To get the rims clean is a different matter, especially the alloy rims.
VW's product is supposedly quite good, I would avoid most others as they
contain extremely caustic (i.e., HF) acids. I haven't found the "best"
formula as yet... I use Simple Green, dishwashing detergent and some
polishing compound.
To make your life easier, wax your rims. It'll also reduce pitting (which
is caused by a galvanic action between the hot brake metal particles and
your alloy). BTW, BBS rims are nice but a chore to clean.
On the tires use Armor All or Clear Guard. You can also buy stuff in cans
(Tire Shine), but I find it hard not to overspray all over the place (&
that stuff leaves marks on the floor).
To get windows real clean, wash with a strong detergent, perhaps followed
by some alcohol. Then use Windex or similar product and dry most with
rag/chamois and follow with a piece of newspaper paper. Works amazingly
well.
A product like Rain-X also cleans the windows real well as a side effect.
Some have complained that Rain-X leaves a hazy film (can be buffed out with
a *very* clean rag). Rain-X ("invisible windshield wipers") work quite well
on some windshields but only last a couple 1000 kms, or about a month
and a half.
Inside the car I just use some light detergent and water to clean
things. For the vinyl dash and other vinyl interior components I now
use (again) Meguire's #40 spray. It's similar in function to products
like Clear Guard and Armor All except it's not so greasy, slippery
and smells better.
Carpets and seats you just vacuum. It's not a bad idea to treat cloth
seats and carpets with protective products like Scotch Guard.
This is easy to do yourself and often sold at an enormous cost with
new cars.
Q: How do I clean my rims and get rid of that nasty brake dust?
A: As far as I know, the jury is still out on this one.
Here are a couple of suggestions:
- The hard way: toothbrush, soap, simple green, lost of time, then wax
- High pressure power washer (rumored to be too harsh)
- Chemical products: Be very careful with these as some contain
extremely harsh chemicals (Hydrogen Fluoride compounds) causing
eventual discoloration or paint peeling from the plastic parts.
Some chemicals that do seem safer are (I have no personal experience):
o Meguires Mag wheel cleaner (approved and tested by BBS)
o P21S wheel cleaner (approved by Porsche, BMW & M-B)
Others that work, but I have no idea how harsh they are:
Westley's Wheel Magic, ArmorAll Quicksilver, Busch Wheel Cleaner,
Turtle Wax Wheel Cleaner for Mag Wheels
Q: How do I touch up little nicks and chips?
A: Supplied by (christopher.j.hapeman):
Pat Goss of Motorweek did a spot on this some time back,
there are many variations to this scheme, but the all follow the same
guidelines [Jan]:
Clean off the immediate area with rubbing alcohol. If there is rust
in the chip, glue a small piece of fine sandpaper to a pencil eraser
and rotate this in the chip until all of the rust is sanded off.
[Jan: I just fold either 220 or 400 grit sand paper and use the edge
to scrub the rust off. If I see pitting, I use Naval Jelly (Phosphoric
Acid) to reduce the remaining rust]
I think that he used a primer first and then the touch-up paint but I don't
recall that well.
[Jan: Primer is a good idea because it helps evening out the pit
that you created. I use Galvanizing primer, sold under different brands
such as Rustoleum. It's more rust resistant. After it dries I use
400 or higher grid sandpaper to level the primer out].
He used the end of a match (matchbook type (cardboard))
to apply the paint because the brush was usually too clumsy.
[Jan: Use what ever makes sense. QTips, small brushes, the end of a
bamboo BBQ squewer. For larger areas, I use a spray can directly,
after covering the stuff I don't want to paint.]
Fill the chip as much as possible letting the paint dry between coats
until it is flush with the old paint.
Let it all dry thoroughly and then polish the car (area).
Q: How does paintless dent removal work?
A: From Larry Keys:
They're really, hush, hush, about it. They only describe their method
as "the process". I'm almost certain that no magnets or hammers are
used, since the paint is perfect and so is the smoothness of the metal.
Someone posted on r.a.driving, that the process is actually an old one
that's been around since the 50`s. Anyway, he went on to say that this
process is used on airplanes to remove hail dents. The poster said that
the metal skin of the plane was allowed to heat-up, or was heated, then
dry-ice was applied to the area. Something to do with the expanding and
contracting properties of metals?
Jan: I had them take out a couple dents in my car, and all they did (in
my case) is use a set of blunt tools to massage the dents of the inside
panels out.
Q: I need to repaint part of my car. What should I look for in a body shop?
A: Probably the best you can do is ask several VW dealers where they send
their cars for warrantee work (and ask them why).
Also some of the more popular magazines will have recommendations
but they are usually for the CA area.
The first thing I look for is the type of paint they use.
VWs are painted with a Urethane Paint by Hoechst or Glazurit, which
is about as high quality as you can get [BMW & M-B use the same type].
I usually try to stick close to the factory brand of paint because the
pigment formulation is at least similar eventhough the solvents are not
(the body shop cannot bake the entire car as the factory does).
Paint fades, but having roughly the same pigment formulation will allow
the repainted parts fade in roughly the same way.
All body shops have to mix the paint to match your color, so you will
not find any containers that say Alpine Weiss L90E and expect it to match.
VW buys paint in bulk, and each batch differs slightly in color eventhough
it may have the same color code.
Q: How do I fix rubber components such a bumpers and spoilers?
A: 3M manufactures a material called "Flexible Parts Repair Material".
It is a 2-part putty that is essentially a rubber Bondo. I [Craig] have
used it several times and am quite happy with it. I believe that
the kit costs about $15.00 at your local body shop supply store.
I [Jan] have used Shoe Goo at times to fix portion of my chin spoiler.
Works rather well.
Q: I cracked my windshield, what should I do?
A: If the crack is small (<2 cm in diameter) and either out of your line of
site or away from the wipers, you could have it filled
with an epoxy compound. Some have reported good luck with this, I have
not been very lucky.
If the windshield starts cracking, you could try to drill a hole to
stop the crack with a tungsten carbide drill bit, bit in all likelyhood
it's not going to do much good. You still need a new windshield.
I personally do not like the majority of aftermarket windshields.
They are either weaker (crack much quicker), show distortions, introduce
more wind noise, cause water leakage and therefore
I usually get the windshield at VW or order the OEM windshield
(Securit). They are more but I think they work better and seem to
hold up better to stone chips.
You may have to fight it with your insurance co though. I tell them
that the aftermarket windshields are not E2 certified and therefore
do not meet OEM specs.
The windshield on older VWs are just held in place with the rubber
molding, while the newer VWs have bonded windshields with a substantial
higher installation cost. Look for a reputable place to install the
windshield because in the newer cars the windshield is part of the
structural integrety of the car.
Some of the mass market and cheaper place DO NOT BOND THE WINDSHIELD
ADEQUATELY. All they use is Butyl Tape, which stays soft and will
pop out the windshield in the event of a roll-over. Windshields Of America
lost a multimillion dollar law suit in Colorado because of this
(I mention them because I am EXTREMELY dissatisfied with them as well:
It took them 4 tries to get it right, and I am not even sure they
used anything but butyl tape).
According to the place I now go to (I loose one windshield every couple
years) recommends P255FC Urethane for bonding the windshield.
It becomes very rigid and you cannot prick it with a pin after it cures,
while butil tapes feels soft and goo-y.
Q: My seat material has ripped, how do I fix it? This is mostly dedicated
to those with 85-87 GTIs. :-<
A: Excerpts from the group:
My 87 GTI 16V needed replacement 3 times. The first two were under
warranty, the third time I decided on the DIY route.
I checked the re-uphostery option, but was too much of an unknown
result.
I decided to buy the dealer part and do it myself. Took the seat out
and removed the old bolster. As it turned out, there was a sharp
weld bead right under where the rip always started!
A few wraps of ye ole duct tape fixed that. I then re-installed the
new bolster cover over the old foam bolster itself. This was a pain
in the ass, because there are these sharp upholsterer's clips you
have to re-bend into place (there may be a tool to ease this, but I
used pliers). The whole thing took a couple of hours.
Anyway, it held up after that. I'm convinced it was that sharp weld
in the seat frame that caused it, and if you have a grinder you may
want to grid it down to smooth it for extra insurance.
Ok, here's two different versions of fixit solutions: #1 find a GTI with
the same seats and get the passenger's seat $35 around my parts for a GOOD
one with NO TEARS or Wear. Then disassemble it and re-cover your driver's
seat with its parts. it's a little more complicated than just taking one
out and swapping the other in as things like the seat belt and slider rails
aren't exactly the same. (they are Really close, but not the same when you
consider things like the seat belt mount point...)
#2 Take the entire seat apart and recover it in a BETTER material. I've
been running my butt across a material called Sunbrella (designed for use
as boat cushion/boat top material). At first, it didn't seem as comfy as
the original, but then again the other original wore out and has since
been covered to match. Mine are done in black which ought to absorb as
much of the scorching South Florida sun as anything, yet they are never
hot like vinyl even when I have the glass sunroof removed at noon. I would
hate to think what an upholstery shop would have charged to do the work my
mom did re-covering my 2 fromt seats because this fabric is VERY un forgiving
when you start stretching it over the frame. There were a few stitches that
mom had to dismantle and re-sew to get to fit just right, but everyone who
looks into my interior comments on my seats. (the rear seat is still done
in the original fabric which is now starting to show its age 12+ years)
Q: How do I treat my leather interior?
A: I have so far not found any "miracle" solution.
A variety of suggestions however exist:
- Vacuum all the dust and sand from the seam (it causes the seams to tear)
- Moist rag for occasional cleansing
- Meguire's leather treatment
- Saddle Soap and Mink Oil
- Lexol Cleaner and Conditioner
MISCELLANEA
===========
Q: When my Corrado spoiler retracts, it squeaks. What do I do?
A: "Lubricate" it with Talcum powder. Note that baby powder used to be talcum,
but because of the naturally occurring asbestos with talcum (I know, we are
all doomed), baby powder sometimes contains corn starch instead. Note:
Silicon spray dries out rubber and is not recommended.
Q: Are those ventilation filters sold by APS any good?
A: They are pure CRAP!!! They are too restrictive according to Roc Goolen. [If
you really want to filter your air, go to a hardware store, buy a furnace
filter for a couple $$ and rig it up somehow. Jan...later I tried that,
and wouldn't you know, that too restricted the airflow!
At least I only spent .40 US$ finding this out.]
Note that the filters that APS used to sell were made by Climismann (sp?);
they are now selling units made by Bosch and make the claim that they "work
much better." [Hmmmmm.... Ed.]
>>>> SUGGESTIONS/COMMENTS/CORRECTIONS? send e-mail to above address
Contributors (not exhaustive):
------------------------------
Note: Quoted contributions imply possible conflicting pieces of advise
with other contributors.
jmm2948@zeus.tamu.edu (Jeffrey M. Mayzurk)
mark@wdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
dilmore@techops.cray.com (Robert J. Dilmore)
tgpt_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Tom Guptill)
rgolen@UMASSD.EDU (Ric Golen)
cdg@sei.cmu.edu (Craig Gary)
borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
tomh@wes.on.ca (\tom haapanen)
teek@kingcong.uwaterloo.ca (Prateek Dwivedi)
gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca (ANdy)
eric@quantum.qnx.com (Eric Johnson)
dans@ans.net (Dan Simoes)
dilmore@techops.cray.com (Robert J. Dilmore)
tedcrum@garnet.berkeley.edu (Ted Crum)
crawford@fido.econ.arizona.edu (David Crawford)
sirota@greenwich.com (Mark Sirota)
blu@cellar.org (Dan Reed)
scottz@pangea.Stanford.EDU (Scott Zeller)
christos@wucs1.wustl.edu (Christos Papadopoulos)
neves@anchor.cs.colorado.edu (NEVES RICHARD K)
rkast2+@unixd.cis.pitt.edu (Rajiv K. Agrawala)
wolfsond@cse.fau.edu (Dan)
borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
jjmacklo@infonode.ingr.com (Jim Macklow)
ilh@lcs.mit.edu (Lee Hetherington)
ke05@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (KIRBY ERLANDSEN)
mhembruc@tsegw.tse.com (Mattias Hembruch)
ptong12@ursa.calvin.edu (Peter Tong)
morton@quack.kfu.com (Brent Morton)
chan@seattleu.edu (Anthony)
gjm@macsch.com (Greg Moore)
thogard@wrdis01.robins.af.mil (Cont Tim Hogard)
mshearer@math.ucla.edu (Michael Shearer)
squiec@vccnw04.its.rpi.edu (Craig L. Squier)
jdouglas@mitre.org (Jason Douglas)
jay.mitchell@the-matrix.com (Jay Mitchell)
pk16@frc.ri.cmu.edu (Paul Keller)
keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov (Larry Keys)
scornelius@ws11.iac.honeywell.com (Steve Cornelius)
lito@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Lito Lucena)
cfm@cbnews.cb.att.com (conrad.f.matter)
chneide@world.std.com (Eric G Schneider)
Volney.Spalding@Corp.Sun.COM (Volney Spalding)
rbriber@eng.umd.edu (Robert M. Briber)
frank.sikernitsky@mail.trincoll.edu (The Catt)
tcora@Pica.Army.Mil (Tom Coradeschi)
eschwa@csn.org (Emerson Schwartzkopf)
cremelie@ibmsp.elis.rug.ac.be (Nick Cremelie)
seibed@lamar.ColoState.EDU (Edward Seibert)
lsharkey@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Sharkman)
Eric Lee Green elg@usl.edu
Tom Huppi thuppi@delphi.com
Greg Welch, welchg@cs.unc.edu
scornelius@server2.iac.honeywell.com (Steve Cornelius)
jdr40@juts.ccc.amdahl.com (John Ritter)
Craig D. Gary"
Mark (mbernier@aol.com)
garrick@cfd19.eng.buffalo.edu (Sean)
gsdiseth@efn.org (Gregor)
pmd11@phy.cam.ac.uk (Peter Dickson)
MHC@ussu.Ciba.Com (Michael Chin)
"Daniel J. Stern"
vyeung@bmerha11.bnr.ca (Vincent Yeung)
John Leipsic
gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca (Andy)
Charlie Crutchfield
JBratek@aol.com
jtracey@pts.mot.com (James Tracey)
RHOVNANI@STDNTMAIL.LMU.EDU (RAFFI HOVNANIAN)
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Disclaimer: My employer has nothing to do with this.
Use any info in this posting at your OWN risk.
This is public information and should not be dissiminated
for profit.
--
-----------------
Jan jan@lipari.usc.edu
From: jan@ug.eds.com (Jan Vandenbrande)
Subject: rec.autos.vw [W] PERFORMANCE, FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTION (FAQ)
Date: 1995/06/14
Message-ID: <3roga4$gsh@lipari.usc.edu>
approved: news-answers-request@MIT.EDU
sender: jan@lipari.usc.edu
followup-to: poster
summary: Watercooled VWs Performance Related Q&As
organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
newsgroups: rec.autos.vw,rec.answers,news.answers
Archive-name: autos/vw/performance-faq
Rec-autos-vw-archive-name: performance-faq
Posting-Frequency: bi-monthly
Last-modified: 10 February 1995
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Frequently Asked Questions
for
Water Cooled VWs
-- Performance --
rec.autos.vw
Date:
Version:
1 Feb 94 = Creation and copy from tech faqs.
1 Mar 94 = First posting.
1 Apr 94 = Conversion to MsWord for easier maintenance.
1 May 94 = Solo I & II added. Books to read.
1 Jun 94 = Relocating batteries, shock stiffness table,
lights, alignment
15 Jun 94 =performance updates, Sound insolation.
1 July 94 =Edits, stressbar updates.
12 Oct 94 = Lots of new stuff.
27 Jan 95 = Partially updated
10 Feb 95 = Finally included Mark's additions.
Moderator: Jan Vandenbrande, jan@ug.eds.com
See also the list of contributors at the end.
Please feel free to submit any additional info.
------------------------------------------------------------
---------------
Copyright Notice (c) -- 1994: All Rights Reserved
The information contained here is collectively copyrighted
by the authors. The right to reproduce this is hereby
given, provided it is copied intact, with the copyright
notice inclusive. However, the authors explicitly prohibit
selling this document, any of its parts, or any document
which contains parts of this document.
------------------------------------------------------------
---------------
Index:
======
GENERAL 1
CHEMICALS 9
REFERENCE MATERIAL 10
ENGINE 12
ELECTRICAL 19
TRANSMISSION 20
BRAKES 22
TIRES/RIMS/SUSPENSION 23
GENERAL
Editor's Foreword: This FAQ is geared at improving the
performance of watercooled VWs based on the Golf Chassis (A1-
A3: Golf I/Rabbit, Golf II & III, Sciroccos, Corrados,
Jettas, Ventos, Convertibles) using predominantly the "1600
type" and larger 4 cylinder engine block and the new VR6
2.8/2.9l engine. Because of this FAQ's origine, most
improvements are aimed at the US/Canadian market. The above
cars also share many components with Dashers/Passats/Fox's
(e.g., engines), though they differ in many other aspects
such as suspension and exhaust system. Some of these cars
may actually have more in common with Audis.
Performance improvements encompasses a wide field of
subjects, most commonly referred to in the context of
increasing power and improving handling. This FAQ intends to
go beyond these traditional meanings and include changes
that improve upon the stock design. Performance often is
achieved at the expense of something else often not
mentioned with the advertised component such as fuel
consumption, harsher ride or noise. This FAQ intends to
reveal some of these as well.
One of the things to keep in mind is cost. In some cases the
improvements will costs as much as a new stock part from VW,
but in other cases it costs more. Generally you will never
recover the cost of these improvements. Unlike real estate,
most cars are not investments and therefore the reason for
spending money is for pure pleasure. For that reason, you
need to make a decision on whether it is worth it to you for
the amount of time you want to keep the car. Also, it makes
little sense to buy the most expensive suspension system if
your engine is about to blow. Fix the rest first perhaps
with better components.
Not covered in this FAQ are the engines/fuel systems
available outside North America such as engines less than
1500 cc and carburetors/mono-throttle FI systems.
Another good thing to keep in mind is: "Speed costs money,
how fast can you afford to go?" [?]
Q:I want to go faster? Where should I start?
A:Yourself. Most people only utilizes a small portion of
their car's capabilities, and often do not know how the
car handles under emergency conditions. Almost EVERYONE
can benefit by taking a performance "Driving School" from
one of the local clubs (e.g. SCCA, ~1/2 day, inexpensive,
fun) or from a performance driving school (e.g. Skip
Barber, Bob Bondurant, etc, expensive, fun). It is
probably the biggest single improvement you can make and
it's a skill you take with you no matter what car you are
driving.. In every day driving it may make the difference
between an accident and avoiding one!
The next question you need to ask yourself is *why* you
want to improve your car's performance. Do you want to
impress your friends? Do you want to blow away other cars
on the street? Do you want to compete, and if so, what
type of competition? There are all kinds of car
competitions: Autocross, road racing, rally, concours,
drag race, and so on?
Will you be using this car for your daily commute or will
it be purely used for competitions? Depending on what
you want to do, you may want to follow a very different
path to enhance performance.
What runs well on a track may not be acceptable or barely
drivable for a street car (clearance, noise, hard ride,
rough idle, bent rims, the law...). Additionally, if you
want to race in a club, cars are categorized depending on
their power and handling, and to what extent they have
been modified.
For example, it may be better to leave your car stock
than to make certain modifications. Most classing
structures allow only certain modifications, and if you
do somethign else, you'll be bumped to the next category.
For instance, in SCCA Solo II autocrossing, Stock-
category cars must run on rims that are the same size as
the originals. If you go with a wider rim, you will have
to run in the Street Prepared category. There, you would
also have to lower and stiffen your car and replace your
entire intake system in order to be competitive.
Q:I'm interested in eventually changing from autox to
obtain the SCCA Competition license on and do some
amateur weekend racing?.
A:I'd suggest starting out in a Stock vehicle. An option,
if you really intend to eventually go road racing, is to
look for an inexpensive road racing vehicle like a Vee or
an IT car, and run it as an autocrosser while learning;
then when you're ready for SCCA racing school, you should
already have a reliable, well understood vehicle in your
possession. Note that it's *very* hard to learn to drive
in a formula car. People just starting in driving
competitions should be in two-seat sedan-type cars --
things happen more slowly, and they can take passengers
and ride as passengers with better drivers. Note that
formula racing is also a lot more expensive.
Q:What type of car racing are available (for normal
mortals) in the US?
A:The SCCA defined several types of racing, open to the
"public":
Solo I is a high speed event, using cars prepared to road
racing safety standards; it covers both hill climbs and
race track based events. Solo I (and Solo II) are time
trials; there is no wheel-to-wheel action involved.
Solo II is a moderate speed event; it corresponds roughly
to what other clubs call autocross. Safety equipment is
not mandated, except for roll bars in heavily prepared
convertibles (stock convertibles do not require roll bars
in Solo II.)
Q:What is autocross (Solo II)?
A:Autocrossing (or, Solo II) is timed racing in a
controlled situation where the agility of your car, and
your ability as a driver, are more important than raw
horsepower. Autox courses are usually setup in large
parking lots with orange traffic cones. Unless the course
is pretty long, only one car is allowed on the course at
any time, which means that there's no possibility of
going fender-to-fender with another car. Cars are
classed, either by the local group (if they're
independent) or by the Sports Car Club of America (SCCA),
according to their level of vehicle
preparation/modification called categories (Stock, Street
Prepared, Prepared and Modified, or S, SP, P, M) and by
their performance characteristics, i.e., class. There are
9 stock classes from SS (Super Stock) down to H Stock, SP
and M go from A-E, but P goes A-F.
There is a category that some SCCA regions are using
called SM or Street Modified (aka "Open Street Prepared"
in some regions). This is for cars that do not fit in
Street Prepared but are not competitive for Prepared
class. (Note that this is not a nationally recognized
class).
Stock class was originally intended to be a place for
novice autox-ers to "run what they bring", and many
local clubs have special classes for novice competitors
to compete in for their first year. The current
situation for the Stock Category is that it has become BY
FAR the most intense competition, followed by either
Street Prepared or Modified (depending whether you look
nationally or regionally).
The two other categories are Prepared (mostly race-
prepped production cars) and Modified (open wheel cars
and production cars with major engine transplants, etc.).
The preparation allowances for Stock Category are
somewhat more liberal than one might guess: any front
swaybar may be used, and adjustable suspensions are not
required to be adjusted to factory specs. As an example,
the VW GTI that I run typically is set to 2.25 degrees
negative camber and 3/16" toe out at the front. In
addition, you need autocross tires to be really
competitive, and these tires are worthless for any street
use. Most serious competitors in Stock Category buy a
second set of wheels and mount autocross tires. The above
notwithstanding, autocross competition is amazingly
challenging and fun, as long as you understand that you
won't be winning any trophies until you get some "seat
time". I highly recommend the activity.
At the beginning of the autox season most clubs also hold
novice driver and performance driving schools which teach
you the basics (how to follow the course, how cars are
staged on the grid, how to be a course worker, safety
issues, etc.). All you need to compete in most places is
a street-legal car that can pass a basic safety
inspection and a valid drivers license; you're required
to wear a helmet (Snell 75 or ANSI Z90.1b (1979)
approved) when you race, but there are usually loaner
helmets available for you to borrow when you're first
getting started.
There's an Internet-based group of autox-ers called
"Team.Net" (the "dot" is pronounced) who have a mailing
list and an ftp archive to promote discussion of autox-
related issues.
Send email to "autox-request@autox.team.net" or in case
of failure, use autox-request@triumph.cs.utah.edu (the
former hoosier address has been decommissioned) to be
added to the list. Their URL for WWW access is:
http://triumph.cs.utah.edu/team.net.html. They also have
a fairly extensive set of archives, pictures and mpeg
movies.
Also, call the SCCA ((303) 694-7222) and ask for the Solo
II contact person in your region; they should provide you
this person's phone number, and you can call this person
to find out when events are scheduled.
Contributors:
[Blake Sobiloff ]
[jay.mitchell@the-matrix.com (Jay Mitchell)]
[Jonathan Dove ]
[Mark Sirota ]
Q:What are the allowable mods for each auto-x category?
A:There are four major auto-x categories: Stock, Street
Prepared, Prepared and Modified. It is relatively
important to avoid spreading the misconception that the
four categories are a linear progression -- they're not.
Modified is not for "production based cars that have been
modified beyond Prepared allowances," because that
suggests that Prepared is beyond SP, and Mod is beyond
Prepared. It's not so. It's better to think that there
are two progressions -- Stock -> SP -> Mod, and Stock ->
Prepared -> Mod. I generally phrase the Modified
description as "two for production-based cars that only
barely resemble their original configuration."
Stock:
Cars must run "as specified by the manufacturer," with
the exception of specific allowances. These allowances
include [jay.mitchell]:
1.The use of any front swaybar.
2.Any suspension adjustment IF the manufacturer makes
provision for adjustment for non-competition purposes.
3.Any shock absorber that is does not change suspension
geometry or alter the range of travel (i.e., must use
original mounting position). I [jay.mitchell] use Konis
on my A2 VWs, and the Nationals-winning cars have all
used Konis as well.
4.An aftermarket steering wheel within 1" total diameter of
the stock wheel. Wheels with airbags may not be changed,
and cars made after model year 1990 must retain the stock
steering wheel. .
5.Road wheels of the stock diameter and width with offset
within +/- 1/4" of stock. This means that wheels with 6mm
less offset than stock are allowed, resulting in a track
width increase of 1/2"
For example, it allows wheels with 32mm offset on 8V GTIs
and Jettas (stock is 14x6 with 38mm offset), widening the
track by a total of 1/2".
6.Any brake lining material.
7.Certain engine "blueprinting" practices, although these
are rapidly being phased out. Balancing and blueprinting
is only allowed if done by the parts-bin technique; no
machining is allowed. Cars model year '92 and newer may
not overbore/balance, and all cars starting in 1/1/95
this is not allowed.
8.The use of any DOT-legal "street" tire. The hot setups
are BFG COmp T/A R1s or Yokohama A008RSIIs, and these
tires are stickier than pure racing rain tires were five
years ago! [Jonathan Dove]:
9.Ignition timing must be within factory setting
10Can change the exhaust system behind catalytic converter
(if equipped) or exhaust manifold.
11Allows the use of bolt in roll cages.
Other than the above modifications, you have to leave
your car pretty much as it was manufactured in Stock,
including the original driver's seat, body trim (you
could add non-aerodynamic appearance bits, but you could
NOT remove original trim), battery location and size,
except for loose items, such as the jack and spare tire
which may be removed.
Street Prepared:
================
(Basically the same as stock except for these)
Street Prepared was originally intended as an incremental
step beyond Stock prep levels. As it now stands, a really
competitive Street Prepared car may neither be street legal
nor practical for street use. (Note that older cars are
subject to less stringent EPA/NHTSA regulations and
therefore may be street legal in SP class). Tires must still
be DOT legal. In addition to Stock allowances, Street
Prepared allows the following:
1.Replacement or modification of stock springs. Replacement
springs must be of the same type (coil, leaf, or torsion
bar) and in the same location, as original, but the rate,
free length, and coil diameter may vary from stock.
2.Installation of camber plates in strut suspensions.
3.Installation of body stressbars. There are strict
limitations on the type of "strut brace" that may be
installed, but some of the most common ones (Neuspeed
front bars, for example) are legal.
4.The use of any wheel size and/or offset.
5 The use of any intake and/or exhaust system that will
attach to the original, unmodified engine, i.e., the
cylinder head may not be mcahined or drilled to accept a
non-stock manifold.
6 The alteration or removal of emission control devices.
7 The installation of any fully padded and upholstered
driver and front passenger seat.
8 The installation of any steering wheel.
9 The use of a limited slip differential with the same
factory ratio.
10The use of any flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, etc.,
that will bolt to the stock crankshaft.
11The use of any ignition system, including a crank fire
system on a car not originally so equipped.
12Ignition timing can be set outside factory specs.
Prepared:
========
Prepared Category is structured around SCCA club racing
preparation allowances for Production and GT class race
cars. Prepared cars typically have all interior trim removed
(not allowed in Stock or Street Prepared), roll cages, full
racing suspensions, highly modified engines, and they can
run on racing slicks. A list of allowances would be far too
long to itemize here, and you have to have both a Solo II
rulebook and the General Competition Rules to determine the
legality of any particular modification to a car.
The following was supplied by Richard Welty:
Production is a road race class; although stagnant for
many years, there is now change occuring here. the cars
in production are substantially
different from their road-going cousins.
GT: these are generally tube framed cars with sheet metal
that resembles a road going car; there are 5 classes, GT-
1 through GT-5. GT-1 contains corvettes, camaros, etc.,
and GT-5 contains things like Minis, and there are
various cars in between.
Sports Racers: these are single-seat, closed fendered,
special purpose race cars. there are a number of
subclasses which are quite different from each other:
Sports 2000, C Sports Racer, D Sports Racer, Spec Racer,
Shelby Can Am, and so forth...
Formula Cars: these are the single seat, open fendered,
special purpose race cars. like sports racers, there is a
lot of variation in the subclasses, which include:
Formula V (based on air cooled VW parts), Formula 440
(based on 2 stroke motors and CVTs), Formula Ford (based
on 1600cc Ford motors), Formula Continental (a
conglomeration of various older winged Formula cars), and
Formula Atlantic.
Showroom Stock: a class where theoretically stock
vehicles of recent vintage come together and do
experiments in clever, difficult to detect cheating.
Supposed to be cheap, but ends up being expensive.
A more elaborate entry by Bob April: SCCA has a form of
racing, Showroom Stock, that purports to be exactly that.
Outside of a roll cage, fire extinguisher, and
competition harness, the car is supposed to be dead
stock. Even the adjustments (such as front wheel camber)
must be set to factory specs. Cars must be relatively
new. In my experience (some years back) 1/3 of the cars
were legal, 1/3 had fudges which probably didn't matter,
and 1/3 cheated like hell. You can be in the first third
(I was) and still have fun. You get to race at places
you see on TV (Watkins Glen, Road America, etc.) I drove
the car to the track, put numbers on with contact paper,
and had a ball. In circa 50 races I had to get the car
towed from the track three times (one head gasket, one
destroyed clutch, one large hole in engine block with rod
sticking out), although I also once drove an X1/9 back
400 miles in 3rd gear (only), towing a small trailer with
race tires and tools. The driver must join SCCA, have a
routine physical, and have a helmet, firesuit, and
gloves. Figure $1000-$2000 to prepare car and driver.
Major maintenance costs are tires and bodywork, and you
have some control over the latter. Totalling the car is
rare, but it happens. Getting hurt is much rarer, but it
happens. You go through two weekends (schools) of
supervised practice and mock races and get to enter
Regional races. Successfully complete these and you get
to enter National races. Once you have the license, you
can show up in a Formula Atlantic (the worst safety flaw
in the whole thing).
Improved Touring: a class where battered, rusty sedans
built between 1968 and about 5 years ago come to trade
paint. Everybody is sure that the guy who just beat him
is cheating, but nobody can afford to post the tear down
bond. loads of fun, actually, but watch out for Volvos
from Hell.
Improved Touring allows for typical (wheels, bars, etc.)
mods. The drawback is you'll work on the car, and not
learn racing nearly as fast. Be like a Formula 1 driver;
just show up and drive. For more info, call SCCA. If
you can't find the number, you don't have the proper
attitude to do this; it takes a _lot_ of perseverance.
American Sedan: Big bore version of Improved Touring;
Five liter Mustangs, Camaros, and Firebirds trade paint.
Modified
=======
Modified Category has five classes, including three intended
primarily for open wheel race cars and two for production
based cars that have been modified beyond Prepared
allowances. In this class, the sky is the limit (almost). In
my region, we have two Datsun Z cars with Chevy V8s and a
heavily turbocharged Miata in Modified, as well as a
fiberglass GT-40 lookalike kit car. Popular Modified cars
include Formula Fords, Formula Vees, and F440s.
The SCCA publishes the Solo I and II Rules in a book that
costs about $10 (for nonmembers, less if you are a member).
The rules are updated annually and the current year's rules
are available beginning in January. The above descriptions
are general and NOT comprehensive: if you are contemplating
modifications to your car for Solo competition, I strongly
recommend that you buy a rulebook. Happy conehunting!
Q:What are the Solo II Classifications for VWs?
A:Here is a list of popular VWs, along with their Solo II
Classifications:
Car Stock Street P Prepared
Rabbit/Jetta, GTI (A1) ES DSP EP
Rab PU/Fox HS DSP EP
8V Golf/Jetta, GTI(A2) ES DSP EP
All 16V ES CSP EP
Corrado G60 DS ASP EP
Corrado SLC CS ASP EP
Passat GL HS DSP EP
Passat VR6/GLX GS DSP EP
Golf/Jetta III, HS N/A N/A
Note: Prepared is currently being massively restructured.
Q:What are the addresses for some of the performance
related clubs?
A:
Sports Car Club of America, SCCA, (General Car Club),
USA, (800) 255 5550
SCCA Cal Club, LA/OC area, Hotline (818) 988-RACE, or
contact:
Lin Jensen (818) 309 95 91
Renee Angel (909) 947 06 44
Ric (310) 496 39 50
Solo (714) 539 22 57
SCCA Cal Club, San Diego, Hotline (619) 441 13 33
Q:What are the some of the performance driving schools?
A:Some testimonials from Ed Priest:
If you can afford it go to a Track Time driving school.
Cost approx $500 for two days of instruction and time on
the racing track of your choice. You learn a lot and it's
a hell of a good time. I've gone twice at Road America
and am going to take the class at Laguna Saca this fall.
The cost is a lot less expensive then Skip Barber and the
rest because you drive your own car - which is what I
wanted anyway. It's really good to find out what your own
car feels like and does at the limit. The good news is
that most of the insurance companies cover you during the
class for no extra charge.
Comment from Mark Sirota:
I've taken both TrackTime and the BMW/Skip Barber
Advanced Driving School. I took TrackTime in 1988 and
Skippy in 1987, so things may have changed -- but I think
the two-day BMW/Skippy street-driving school is probably
the best for anyone who has never done any real racing.
It's currently $975, but worth every penny (and if it
saves you from one accident, it paid itself off). Next
time you buy a car, spend a thousand less on the car and
a thousand more on the driver. And you can take the
gains with you into every car you drive.
TrackTime and similar schools are great fun, and you can
learn things, but not the sort of things that Skippy
teaches. Skippy is much more applicable knowledge, and
just as much fun. Courses taught on real racetracks are
a blast, but are really only relevant if you're gonna be
racing on real racetracks.
Bondurant
Phoenix, AZ, (602) 796 1111
(800) 842 72 23
Russel Racing School
Laguna Seca, Monterey CA
(408) 372 72 23
Skip Barber Racing School
(203) 435 1300
Q:Will performance equipment void my car warrantee?
A:It depends on what and how extensive you modify your car
and whether the parts are street legal. It also depends
on what country/province/state you live in. In the USA,
car warrantees are not automatically voided if you use
street legal (i.e., approved by the applicable
authorities such as the EPA/CARB/NHTSA) components. For
example, changing to Bilstein shocks will not void your
warrantee and neither will changing your muffler to a
Leistritz or Gillette muffler. Things become a bit more
difficult with engine modifications.Your warranty is not
voided unless the dealer can prove that your modification
caused whatever damage your car has. However, it may be
extremely difficult to convince them to do so, and more
than likely they will not want to help you.
CHEMICALS
Q:What is Rain-X? Does it work?
A:It's a chemical to treat your windshield to repell water.
Above certain speeds raindrops will just slide off the
windshield making wipers almost redundant. This product
is used on airplanes. Peoples experiences vary with this
product. It works well on some windshields or types of
glass (most VWs seem ok) not too well on others (for
example, it will have no effect on headlights). In all
situations, it will only last for a couple of thousand
miles. Some have reported that it forms a haze on the
wildshield. I believe that part of the trick to apply
this product right is to start with a very clean
windshield (use alcohol as a final degreaser), at
temperature (18C or 70F) and use extremely clean soft non
greasy cotton cloth.
Q:Can and should I use synthetic motor oils?
A:First have a look at the archive on this. In short,
synthetic motor oils are superior in all respect to
mineral based oils. However, with regular oils being very
good already, the chances of you experiencing engine
failure because of oil viscosity breakdown or other
factors have become extremely rare under normal driving
conditions. Usually, the rest of the cars wears out
first.
However, under higher stress conditions, synthetic oils
will provide you with better protection. Because of
their better flow properties, synthetics are also better
at start up, better in colder climates, and consequently
provide a bit more power (measurable, possibly not
noticable).
If you use a transverse engined car at a track for speed
events (as opposed to a parking lot autocross), you may
actually be in a corner long enough to slosh oil clean
away from the pickup, with possible bad results (please
don't ask how I know: [Editor: I did ask Bob April, and
he managed to push a rod through his engine block. The
failure was traced to inadequate lubrication due to hard
acceleration. He was using Castrol 20W50 in his race
prepped Scirocco]). The real solution is to get a
baffled oil pan, but synthetic oils will do better than
dino oils in this situation.
One of the major concerns with synthetic oils is
compatibility with seals. The newer cars definitely have
seals which are compatible, with older cars this is less
certain. The general recommendation with oil change
intervals is to remain with the car's recommendations.
With current VWs this is every 7500 miles or 12 000 km.
The extra cost of synthetic oils is negligable when
compared to other vehicle operating costs including fuel,
insurance, maintenance, and depreciation. Mobil claims
that the superior engine protection, and reduced strain
on batteries and starters, synthetic oils will easily
pay for itself over the life of the car.
Q:Is synthetic oil compatible with other oils.
A:Here is a blurb from Mobil, and it is probably true for
most other synthetic oil.
Compatibility With Other Oils
Mobil 1 is fully compatible with conventional oils. The
two types can be mixed with no adverse effects. Mixing,
however, will reduce the level of benefits Mobil 1
offers.
Precautions for Mixing with other Sythetic Oils
Mobil 1 should not be mixed with any other synthetic
products or oil concentrates. The chemistries could be
incompatible which can lead to a dangerous reduction in
lubricant performance. When switching from other
synthetics to Mobil 1, it is recommmended to flush the
engine first with a conventional oil prior to the change.
REFERENCE MATERIAL
A nice contribution by Bob April [Edited]:
The following books have been worthwhile to me. In general,
they are like a college education; after you have read them
you will be better positioned to make specific decisions.
"Volkswagen Water-Cooled, Front-Drive Performance Book" Greg
Raven, Available from US mailorder houses. Probably the most
relevant book for Water Cooled VWs.
"How to Make Your Car Handle", Fred Puhn. Explains the
basics of car dynamics, why you would want to make certain
modifications, and how to do some of them. [Ed: This book is
pretty old by now and except for the "theoretical" issues,
which are very good, may be a bit outdated. There is however
another book available by the same name but different author
that is more up to date. I have seen copies at better
bookstores and Auto parts "supermarkets"].
"Prepare to Win", "Tune to Win", Carroll Smith. After
reading "Prepare to Win" you will know how to modify your
chassis safely, i.e. why banging bolts in place with a
hammer is bad, and what to do instead. You will also learn
to recognize quality performance parts as compared to cheap
junk. "Tune to Win" is the postgraduate follow up to the
Puhn book. I never would have considered accelerating a
rear wheel drive car to get out of an oversteer situation.
Learn why a Formula V race car has a rear roll bar where
your car has an _anti_roll bar.
"Racing Engine Preparation", Waddell Wilson and Steve Smith.
Old, and discusses V-8s, but there's a lot of stuff you can
use. Waddell's engines have been around Daytona many
thousands of times.
"Bosch Fuel Injection & Engine Management", Charles Probst.
Incredibly clear descriptions of the systems, way too
conservative in describing and valuing modifications.
"Brake Handbook", Fred Puhn. If you're going to do more
than change fluid and pads.
"Clutch and Flywheel Handbook", Tom Monroe. In conjunction
with the shop manual, explained why it was a really bad idea
to speed shift my X1/9 at autocrosses.
"Secrets of Autocrossing", Watts.
"The Front-Wheel Drive High-Performance Advantage", by Jack
Doo, ISBN # 0-87938-298-8, Motorbooks International,
Osceola, Wisconsion
Monthly/Quaterly Publications:
European Car (formerly VW Porsche): Argus Publishers Corp,
P.O. Box 452, Mt. Morris, IL 61054-0452 800-877-5602. Most
relevant mag in US, [W-VWs & other European cars] Addressed
from here on as [EC].
EuroSport Car, McMullen Publishing, 774 S. Placentia Ave,
Placentia, CA 92670, (714) 572 22 55, fax (714) 572 1864.
New magazine. First issue published in fall 93, published
quarterly. A direct, though less refined (busty babes),
competitor of [EC]. Many articles are almost direct
duplicates of what appeared in [EC]. Addressed from here on
as [ESC].
ENGINE
Q:How can I get more power out my VW?
A:Buy a VW with a VR6 engine :->. It's an FAQ that's worthy
of a book, and that's probably where you should start.
After you go through this FAQ to give you some general
idea, look at the following archives:
A1_Audi_Tbody = Upgrading A1 cars with Audi Tbodies
G60_Power_Upgrades = Summary of available (Corrado) G60
Power Upgrades
GTI_Power_Upgrades = Summary of available GTI Power
Upgrades
VR6_Power_Upgrades = Summary of available VR6 Power
Upgrades
Fox_Performance = Fox performance upgrades.
Passat_restrictor = Remove air intake restrictor for more
power (G60/SLC)
Repco_MetalMasters = Experiences with these brake pads
Suspension_Mods = Experiences & explanations.
Synthetic_Oils = Technical papers on oils
VR6_Variable_Intake = Description of the VR6 variable
intake manifold.
VR6_Variable_Intake_MH = Driving impressions from M.H.
Wired_Hotrod = Article from Wired on Chip mods.
collins_1 = R.Collins (ex Drake employee) on VW
performance
collins_2 (mostly A1 & A2 GTIs)
collins_3
collins_4
collins_5
collins_misc1 = Misc. R.Collins communications.
collins_misc2
faq.radar = You'll need it.
faq.tires.sizes = General info on tires (sizes mostly)
faq.tires.survey = General info on tires (net survey &
summary)
Following are a couple of old known modification which are
easy & relatively inexpensive that will increase the power
of the car. In general, the older the car the more room for
improvement. Newer VWs have much less room for easy
improvements because many of the components are already
near optimal.
One easy upgrade path for older VWs is therefore to look at
newer VW (Audi) models, see what they did, and see if you
can swap parts. For example, older VWs have the restrictive
exhaust systems, swapping it with a large diameter one from
a newer model (if possible) or using the catalytic converter
from an SLC will help.
Also be aware when buying "performance" components on their
true benefit. Usually the top horse power gain is quoted
while ignoring the rest of the power band. Your car may
have more top end (high RPMs) while sacrificing power at the
low end (low rpms) which is where most street driving
occurs. The over all effect may therefore be that the car
may actually feel slower off the line, but be great when
passing another car.
So first decide where you want to improve, then research
whether the component in question really achieves that. Also
select performance parts that fit in the stock position over
those that do not. This is probably more true for suspension
components than engine components, but is a good general
rule to follow. Parts that deviate too much may require
extensive modifications, sacrifice reliability, make more
noise, or may even render you car unsafe.
In general: Reduce the exhaust backpressure (performance
exhaust) Advance the timing (recurved distributors,
chips...) Improve breathability (K&N Filter, head port,
throttle body, compressor) Add a hotter cam Enlarge the
engine (change head, pistons, crank) Replace the engine with
a more powerful one.
All cars: Use a K&N Filtercharger air filter element (some
will argue whether this makes any difference). High end
improves a bit. Corrados: 3 HP gain at top. Replacing the
airbox with a filter at the end of the air intake also
provides some additional gain (but you'll also hear more
engine noise...).
Use synthetic oils (motor and transmission).
83-84 GTI:
Change throttle body with a bigger one (Audi?).
[From Peter Tong]: You can get one from a later Audi 5000
of the aerodynamic body style. I think 82 and up.
Another good donor car is the '85 Golf or a Golf that had
CIS-lambda. You have to seal/cap off a vacuum line
coming off it, and in almost all cases transfer your
throttle linkage from your '84 TB to the new TB. Just
make sure that the newer throttle body has a screw
adjustment for the idle speed. You also want to purchase
a really small l screw driver/flat bladed screwdriver bit
to adjust the idle. On the 84s the idle adjustment was a
hex that was easily adjusted on the newer TBs its a screw
and with the TB mounted on your current manifold its
harder to adjust the idle. You also want to make a plate
to put between the new TB and your old manifold to smooth
airflow (your 84 manifold has a TB opening that doesn't
match the newer larger TB). Buy an old style TB gasket,
and a newer style gasket, perhaps new 6mm allen bucket
bolts to attach it, and make the plate to go between it.
If you want a plate cheap just send me $5 and I'll send
you my old one (I had my intake manifold ported and the
opening opened up).
BTW, even with a Fox manifold the TB is good for at most
4hp.
84-87 Scirocco (US):
For the JH 1.8 big-valve engine, use a dual-outlet
exhaust manifold from any early car up to '81, get the
short TT's downpipe (retain cat) for 10 HP, with a 17%
gain at 4200 rpm and more torque Optionally: replace
exhaust system from the cat back (US$150) & factory VW g-
grind camshaft (Autotech, $99)
[From Peter Tong]: What is the difference between the TT
downpipe and the downpipe that come stock with the dual
outlet manifold on earlier cars?
The length is different. The diameter is smaller. The
bends are slightly more abrupt in most cases (some
aftermarket replacement downpipes aren't mandrel bent
even with inner side radius' slightly pinched in). On
most of the earlier cars with cats the stock downpipes
mated before the cat with a flexpipe. The flexpipe
doesn't hurt flow much but is of smaller diameter. Also
the position of the collector on the stock pipe is such
that it would help at higher rpm - the problem is the dp
diameter is too small to support the flow at that rpm
(this is from my experience). In the end count on the
stock dp getting really restrictive around 115hp. When I
first put my 2.0 in and was really revving it - the back
pressure from the stock dp combo was so much that I blew
a nickel sized hole it it! This happened even though I
was running a 2" exhaust and supertrapp rear of the cat.
Kind of funny but it happened to seak out the weakest pt
on my stock dp and took it out. The stock dps also
have two welding methods that I've seen holding the
exhaust manifold flange mating surface. One uses a small
metal "brace" the other type is just welded to the pipe.
The TT downpipe is nicely made and has worked well on my
car. It is stiff in many ways compared with the stock
system, and tends to transmit more vibrations than the
stock system (perhaps due to the stiffness). The
collector joins about 2.5-3" before the cat and is 2"
diameter pipe. Tubing is mandrel bent and the angles
aren't quite as severe as on the stock dp. Also you
eliminate the flexpipe with the TT cat dp. What did it
do? When I installed it - the midrange really improved.
Top end also to a lesser degree.
As for actual #s for what they did on my car:
40-60 in 3rd gear: 4.6s before and 4.3 after. This
tests 3k to 4.5k rpm.
50-70 in 4th gear: 7.9s before and 7.5 after. 3rd
is 1.29 and 4th is .91.
r&p is 3.89.
So you can see it improved the midrange by about a 6%
average. Is it worth $115? It is I guess - it depends on
if you are a geek like I am at trying to extract as much
out of your engine as possible. As it is that pipe, the
G-grind and the TT adjust cam sprocket are the only
aftermarket items that were necessary for me to purchase.
Oh BTW, fuel economy should improve slightly as well.
Fox:
Remove exhaust restrictor (see also further and EuroCar:
April 89, Aug. 89, Dec. 89, Apr. 90, Aug. 90)
90-92 Passat (4 Cyl):
Remove air-intake restrictor, APS Chip, cam. APS chip for
automatics that is supposed to do wonders for low end and
shift points. Applicable to all cars with 9A engine (inc.
16V GLI).
85-92 8VGolfs/Jettas:
The biggest gain can be had with a better down pipe and
exhaust system.
85 GTI:
Change ignition map by cutting wire #11?? on the ignition
control unit and grounding #3 (which was connected to
#11). Yields 2 HP additional, torque peak occurring at a
lower rpm. See also 85-87 GTI for additional power.
85-87 GTI: KE-Jetronics:
Advance ignition idle timing to 12 degrees BTDC or until
knock. (factory specifies 6 degrees +/- 2). Gains 5-8 HP
with >= 92 octane fuel, very noticeable at the low end.
Note, it may reduce the life of your catalytic converter.
90-92 16V GTI/GLI:
Motronic Power chips from Autothority & APS.
Corrado G60:
Stage 1, 2 & 3 chips/packages from APS & Autothority (&
others).
Stage 1/P-Chip: Chip swap, improves low end by torque
18%, high end by ~5%. Gas consumption
improves but you do need Super Unleaded. One of
the BEST improvements you can make to this car.
Stage 2: Pulley change, chip & fuel pressur regulator
(AT) or exhaust (APS) => Power boosted to 180 (APS)
or 200 (AT).
Noisy, too powerful for the car, APS is more
drivable,
AT's not CARB approved. Gas consumption near stock.
Stage 3: Like Stage 2 but with a cam, affects mostly high
end.
Remove cold air snorkel (too restrictive) => 1-2 HP gain
at the top end (Note: WAY too noisy).
See also archive Cor_Power_Upgrades or something.
VR6 2.8l & 2.9l Models (Corrado SLC/VR6, Passat GLX, Golf
III, Jetta/Vento):
Power chips available from both APS & AutoThority &
others.
Stage I/P-chip: Gain of 7-10 HP at the top end. Most
people reported little or no gain. Some have
complained that AT's chip seems to produce knock.
Replace throttle body w/o internal air ramp (10% more
airflow). This is nothing more than the European
progressive TBody. It does make the low end a tad
weaker, which, combined with other enhancements
will make the car less jumpy.
K&N P-Flow filter. APS recommends the above 3 combined to
produce the best effect to produce an additional
30 HP.
Remove cold air snorkels (too restrictive). Their
technical name is "Helmholtz resonator", and it's
indeed a sort of muffler.
Get a new set of cams, such as those from Schrick. Note:
Mostly improves the top end.
Use VW Motorsport's Variable Inlet Manifold (VSR). See
archive on this. An alleged gain of 30-50 HP at
3000 rpm! Expensive (2300US$), but chances are that
certain shops may produce a low cost immitation.
Buy a turbo charger kit. VW is about to release a Van
called the Sharan that uses a 250Bhp Turbo VR6.
Other turbos on the Vr6 have produced around 300Bhp
making the car virtually unmanagable.
>>>Probably LOTS MORE...
Caveat: Most of the above are merely small fixes that do not
require replacement of a major engine component such as the
cam or the exhaust system, which is usually the next step
towards major engine improvements. Those enhancements
require a lot more work and expertise to install.
Caveat II: Most of the above improvements are approved by
the air resource boards for street legal use, but some are
not (Stage II, Corrado). Before you install any equipment,
make sure that you understand the full implications.
Tampering with pollution control equipment is a serious
crime, punishable with a 20 000 US$ fine in many states of
the USA.
Q:What's a K&N air filter?
A:It's a washable (i.e., reusable) air filter made out of
an oiled cloth like material over a wire mesh matrix. It
is supposed to let through more air while retaining the
same filtering capabilities. More air => more power,
especially at higher rpms.
In practice however, the reviews have been mixed. Hot VWs
(Dec 92) reported a 3-5 HP gain on the high end in a
Jetta. Others have reported no difference or even a
slight degrade in performance. My *speculation* is that
some cars require to see some vacuum to get the right
amount of fuel, kind-a like a choke (e.g., carbureted
cars). The same is true with some FI cars (measure
vacuum) while other FI cars measure air flow. By the way,
a 3-5 HP difference is within normal daily variance of an
engine because of external factors such as gas quality,
viscosity of the oil, ambient temp, etc. You can probably
gain as much from pumping up your tires harder to reduce
rolling resistance (but increase wear).
From Mark Sirota: I put a used K&N on a flowbench against
a couple of other filters, including both types of Bosch
filters. The used K&N flowed FAR better than anything
else I tried -- by a very significant difference. So the
K&N filter alone is definitely an improvement, *if* the
air filter is the most restrictive element in the system.
I have no idea if that's true.
Q:How do I service a K&N air filter?
A:You can buy the K&N chemicals (cleaner and reoiler) or
you can use a detergent called Formula 409 (used for
cleaning kitchens in the US) to save some money (the K&N
cleaner is rumored to be the same as Formula 409). You
should always use their oil though. Also do not rinse the
filter in hot water. It'll shrink the cloth.
Q:How do I keep my engine cool?
A:Keeping your engine sufficiently cool is needed for all
the obvious reasons. VW engines like to run hot, and are
more efficient that way. However, under high stress or
race conditions, the factory system may not be
sufficient. If you run too hot your power is reduced due
to engine knock.
There are several ways to aleviate this problem: 1)
Increase heat transfer with a different cooling fluid or
wetting agent. 2) Increase the cooling capicity of your
car with a larger radiator.
The reason why I do not mention changing the thermostat
to a lower temp one is because it merely reduces the
average operating temp (which may be too high), but does
not change cooling capacity. In extreme conditions the
temp rating on the thermostat is not going to matter
because they will all be fully open. It is however a good
idea to make sure that your thermostat still is capable
of opening fully at the intended temp.
Q:How can I improve heat transfer/what are alternative
coolant fluids?
A:Redline sells a "wetting" agent calleed "Water Wetter" as
an additive that improves heat transfer. It comes in two
forms solid (discontinued), which contains phosphates,
and liquid w/o phosphates (OK). People who have used it
can't tell any difference under normal driving
conditions, but it does make a difference if the problem
is that hot spots in the cooling system are causing
localized boiling
Under normal street use you will not see any change
because the thermostat is regulating the temp. It's only
when you exceed the capacity of your system and the
thermostat is all the way open that the wetting agent
will have an effect. The wetting agent is supposed to
improve heat transfer by reducing surface tension. This
is important near the head where the coolant my locally
boil. The little gas bubbles however impede heat
transfer, which in turn may lead to knocking and reduced
engine performance. Redline claims it can reduce engine
temp by as much as 30F (depending on the anti-
freeze/water ratio, for a 50% mix it's closer to 10F I
think). The performance shop I bought it from said that
its good insurance when your car is put under heavy duty
(stuck in traffic on a hot day, making a desert run,
autocross).
Another issue is that glycol raises the boiling point,
but reduces heat capacity. With Water Wetter, you can
hopefully use less glycol, resulting in higher heat
capacity. You want to use as little glycol as you can
while still avoiding boiling (and still getting enough
lubrication for the water pump, which glycol provides).
Note: In certain old high mileage cars, the Water Wetter
scavenges out some of the contamination in the cooling
passages and holds them in suspension in a way that
resembles motor oil. The stuff even "feels" like oil.
Redline said this was quite harmless otherwise, and I
shouldn't have any problems with hoses or the like. They
said because it only happens in a few cars, they didn't
feel justified in putting out a warning notice
(especially if it causes owners of cars with REAL
problems to ignore it).
An other alternative described in European Car (Oct 91)
is to use !pure! propylene glycol that has a higher
boiling point than ethylene glycol though worse heat
transfer properties. [borowski@hpspkla.spk.HP.com] The
higher power VW engines have a problem with pinging under
heavy load. This is due to the coolant boiling inside the
head. Coolant vapor is a very poor heat conductor. This
loss of cooling causes hot spots to form on the
combustion chamber side of the head, causing pinging. The
propylene glycol does not boil, and this cools the hot
spots better. Thus, pinging is avoided, and more power is
available if the timing is set to take advantage of the
reduced chance for pinging. The cooling system is NOT
pressurized, but vented to boil residual moisture away
(which lowers the boiling pt). A kit to make the switch
is available from: MECA Cooling Company [See the first
general FAQ for address]
Q:Do "Split Fire" (= name of a plug sold in the US, not a
type of plug) plugs live up to their advertised claims?
A:Responses from the net & tests by TT indicate: NO, they
are actually worse than the recommended Bosch plugs. Note
that VW recommends the use of tri- cathode Bosch plugs
for some of their cars...so this split-fire idea is
rather "old". Apparently it's covered with Techtonics
"Amazing Dyno Stories: Parts to get and parts to forget".
There's an article in the August 1994 issue of EC where
they talk about ignition systems and specialty spark
plugs. They interviewed Dr. Chris Jacobs of Jacobs
Electronics. The gist of the article is that, cars with
weak ignition systems get the most benifit form these
special spark plugs (SplitFire, V-groove, etc.) However,
the same cars perform better with stock plugs and an
improved ignition system than with the specialty plugs
and the stock system. [Ed's Note] Most newer VWs have a
pretty efficient ignition system, and may see little or
no benefit from such plugs or an enhanced ignition system
by Jacobs.
Q:What net wisdom exists on exhaust systems?
A:Gilette: Good balance for street and autocross & last
LONG. Some will debate that this is the best (stainless).
OEM supplier to VW. Leistritz: Good balance for street
and autocross. Galvanized. Note: Stock on VR6 Corrado &
Passats. Supertrapps: GREAT for road racing and
autocrossing but way too loud for everyday life
(rgolen@UMASSD.EDU) OEM: More recent VW mufflers have
improved to the point that little can be done to improve
them in street legal performance or durability. Also keep
in mind that VW now offers lifetime warrantee on their
replacement mufflers. Avoid Midas, contrary to their
commercials.
See also the archives on this!
Q:Removing the restrictor in a VW Fox to get more power?
A:There is a steel doughnut going right before the cat.
This stock doughnut has a two inch (approx) hole in the
center for the exhaust to flow thru. It can be replaced
with a doughnut with a 2 1/2" (approx) hole to make the
exhaust breathe a bit easier. Not a significant power
increase, mind you. [mgm@royko.Chicago.COM (Marty
Masters)]
Q:What is the relationship between torque and horsepower?
A:
RPM * torque(ft-lb)
HP= ----------------------
5252
Anyone have the metric version? I am too lazy (i.e., kW =
Nm * RPM / 60?)
Q:Should I remove the catalytic converter?
A:Not if you want to remain street legal, and unlike in the
early 70's, these devices have improved so much that the
loss because of it has become minimal. Note: The
Catalytic converter on the SLC is rumored to be one of
the most free flowing of any VW, and will provide gains
when used on a Passat (or possibly other cars). New
Dimensions is toying around with this.
Note: In the US there is 20 000 US$ fine for messing
around with emmissions control equipment. Of course the
chance of being caught is rather minimal.
Q:Are the performance chips interchangeable between cars
with similar engines, e.g., VR6 Corrado and Passat?
A:NO Almost all the chips are different. They are ordered
by the box number on the CPU and are not interchangable.
Q:Which performance chips are recommended for VWs?
A:See the archives on Performance improvements as well as
the Wired article. The two most trusted companies for VWs
chip makers are APS and AutoThority. There are some
disputes that one is better than the other, but it's
mostly a matter of compromises. In regards to SuperChips,
their reputation has been tainted by some questionable
claims and 300$ improvements that had nothing to do with
reprogramming the chip (you get back the stock chip!).
ELECTRICAL
Q:How can I improve night visibility/increase light output?
A:It all depends what you are starting from, and in what
country you live. USA: Sealed beam units till 84
required, "aerodynamic" allowed thereafter but must still
conform to a rather pointed spread. 3 DOT nipples for
alignment required. Canada: Same as USA. Northern Canada
has slightly different regulations. Europe: Sealed beams
forbidden. Light is more evenly distributed. Some
countries require yellow lights, and different settings
for city, highway and hi-beam lights.
Beware that whatever you do, you must NOT blind on coming
traffic. Some of the suggestions below are actually
illegal for street use in the US. However, judging from
the large number of misaligned lights in the US, your
"illegal" mods will be less blinding than a normal but
badly aligned set of lights. However, oncoming traffic
may automatically assume that you are blinding when they
see more than 2 lights on at once (+ it may be illegal in
some states/driving conditions). EuroCar had several
articles on lighting in 91/92.
To improve visibility, try the following:
- Align your headlights. See Bentley or your local code
for specs. I usually go a tad higher than the specs w/o
blinding.
- Change to halogen lights (yes, some of the sealed beam
units are not even halogen).
- Clean the inside of your non-sealed beam units with
some alcohol on some cotton/rag at the end of a
wire/stick. (Pretty tricky.)
- Add fog lights (very wide, low, but not far reaching).
Set up correctly, fog lights DO NOT blind, per
definition. Don't buy generic brands, but minimally go
for Bosch, Hella, Cibie and others.
- Add driving lights (narrow and far reaching). Set up
according to specs these DO blind, however, they can
often be set up lower so that blinding can be almost
entirely eliminated. - Change to one of the non-sealed
aftermarket units, which are usually the European style
lamps.
- Change to the equivalent European "aero-style" units
(e.g., A2 Jetta). These are available from a number of
sources and have much better beam characteristics than
DOT approved lamps provide. Your ability to use them
will be a function of the level of detail your state
motor vehicle inspection requires. In NJ, they have to
come out to pass inspection [Tom Coradeschi].
- Change to poly ellipsoidal, high-energy, "DE" lights.
This is the newest technology in lighting technology,
more commonly found on newer BMWs (though BMW uses an
arc lamp rather than halogen). EuroCar had several
articles about these in 91/92.
- Change the wattage of your bulbs. This is actually not
always a good solution because your lenses may crack
because of heat build-up, moisture accumulates faster,
wiring may not be able to carry the load, may blind, may
not fit in all non-sealed units [According to Andy, you
cannot not put higher wattage lightbulbs into the stock
North American light lenses.
[Unverified...jan] The 70/90 Watt versions of the H4
can be bought at off-road places such as Competition
Limited, (313) 464-1458 according to Dilmore. There are
also 45/100W versions of the standard 45/65W lamps. Some
lamps require you to trim a metal tab that would normally
prevent their use for street cars.
From Michael R. Kim: I've got 80W low beams on H4, and
haven't had any problems being pulled over. I drive with
friends a lot, and ever since installing the lights, I've
asked them about glare, for fear of getting a ticket.
They told me that since I've angled them down just a tad,
they don't notice any more glare than a car with factory
lighting. Mind you, if you've ever seen one of those
Ford F150 trucks, with their lighting, you'd question
about proper light angling. I've had the lights in now
for almost 5 months now, and have yet to even get a flick
of the high beams from someone else for blinding them
with 80 W beams. I would definetly recommend upgrading
lights, it can do wonders for your driving, but PLEASE
double check your alignment and light pattern before
going off to test how well they work.
TRANSMISSION
Q:Should I change to a racing clutch?
A:In most cases a racing clutch ("4 puck") is really not
needed for street or Autocross uses. VW clutches can
easily handle well above stock power. For example, a 16V
210 mm GTi clutch is good to 160 bhp. Furthermore, racing
clutches are very harsh (like, all or nothing) and much
stiffer to depress. One of the more agreeable changes is
to use a stronger pressure plate with a stock clutch
disc.
Q:What transmission fluid should I use (manual cars)? Why
is it important for racing?
A:If you use a transverse engined car at a track for speed
events (as opposed to a parking lot autocross), you may
actually be in a corner long enough to slosh oil clean
away from the pickup, with possible bad results (please
don't ask how I know). The real solution is to get a
baffled oil pan, but synthetic oils will do better than
dino oils in this situation.
As far as I know, most/all water cooled VW transmissions
require gear fluid with an API rating of GL-4 (MIL-2105).
The recommended GEAR viscosity hovers around 80W, 75W-80
or 75W-90 Note that 75W-80 GEAR oil is equivalent to
10W30 MOTOR oil, but it is NOT recommended to use motor
oil in gear boxes, even though some Japanese cars do so
any way (has to do with shear strength). GL-5 oil is made
to lubricate gears (like in a differential) and may cause
premature wear on brass synchros.
NOTE that GL-5 is recommended for the *differential* on
some AUTOMATIC VWs and on some manual transmissions.
However most VW *Manual* transmissions need GL-4. Check
your user manual or VW.
Quality of the gear oil makes a HUGE difference in
shifting. I have personally tried Castrol (HORRIBLE),
SWEPCO (Better), VW gear oil (good, I suspect that they
use a synthetic in some cars), and Redline MTL (best so
far). Others seem happy with Mobil 1, Synthoil, Spectro,
etc. How these oil affect transmission life is unknown to
me. Note that MTL is rated 75W80, while their newer
product MT90 has a rating of 75W90 which may be closer to
the required viscosity of your transmission.
VW also sells synthetic transmission oil (at US$20/liter)
which is rumored to be very good as well.
Most VW transmissions use somewhere around 2-2.5 liters
of oil. Before you drain, make sure you have something to
catch the oil (an old jumbo coffee can is perfect). Open
the side fill hole first, because you'll have to fill it
up to either the fill hole or BEYOND. You'll therefore
either have a little bit leak out or 1/2 liter gush out.
To drain (the rest), unscrew 17 mm allen plug at the
bottom of transmission. To fill, either unscrew
speedometer cable or use the fill hole on the side. Some
VWs require the level of the oil to be just so that some
drips out of the fill hole, others (some A2 Golfs/Jettas)
require an additional 1/2 liter on top of that. That's
why it's a good idea to catch the old stuff and check the
fill hole first.
[NOTE: Some VW User's Manuals apparently do recommend GL-
5 in some transmissions, so check first! blu@cellar.org
seems to be doing ok with Redline GL-5 after 100kmiles in
his car.]
[NOTE: One recent posting by (Paul Keller) blames his
transmission failure on MTL, and claims that Redline
recommends MT90 only for VWs. At this point it is unclear
to me whether MTL is to blame, and whether using MT90
would have made much of a difference. Keep in mind that
he is one of two so far which blame Redline out of many
who have had no problems so far.]
TIP: Glue a small round magnet on the outside of the
drain plug. They can be bought cheaply at electronics
stores, and it will attract metal particles that may
damage the transmission. Older VWs used to have magnetic
drain plugs, but VW stopped using them for some reason.
Some newer VW trannys now have this magnet BUILT in
permanently.
Q:What's the difference between the normal wheel bearing
grease and Spectro SPL grease?
A:The front bearings on VW's tend to take a lot more abuse
than on other makes, so many people recommend that you
use a synthetic like Spectro to help them last longer.
However, there also seems to be some confusion on the
matter: most normal drivers are easily able to get 100K
mi. out of their front bearings. This is in contrast to
racers, who may have to change bearings every race or
two, and to GM products, which are supposed to have new
bearings every 50K mi. (according to a sign on the wall
of a local dealership). [sobiloff@lap.umd.edu (Blake
Sobiloff)]
BRAKES
How to improve/vented/cross drilled/pads
Q:What and why vented rotors?
A:Braking converts motion into heat. Heat needs to be
dissipated. The faster you can dissipate heat the better
you can stop, and less fade. Vented rotors essentially
have two parallel "discs" with an airspace in between to
increase cooling. Many of the Kesley-Hayes non-vented
front rotors can be replaced with vented ones and thinner
pads without replacing calipers for a slight gain in
braking power.
Q:Why cross drilled rotors?
A:Braking produces gasses, and cross drilling give the
gasses a way to escape, thereby increasing contact
pressure. In addition, a cross-drilled rotor now has more
surface area, and thus cools down more quickly.
Personally [Jan] I do not advice cross drilled rotors
because of the increased likelihood of cracking. DO NOT
CROSS DRILL ROTORS YOURSELF. It's usually done on an NC
machine at calculated positions followed by stress
relieving.
The comments from people on driller rotors are that they
improve braking under competitive situations, but only
provide a marginal benefit under normal street use. The
also feel more uneven when you brake (esp. the slotted
ones) and are also noisier (they "humm"). Note that cross
drilling is actually banned for certain competitive
events, so check before you invest.
Another alternative to x-drilling rotors is to buy
slotted or grooved rotors and pads.
Q:Is it worthwhile changing my rear drums to disc brakes?
A:For normal purposes: NO. For racing and other purposes,
maybe. Considering the high cost of this swap and
considering that only 30% of all braking power comes from
the rear, it is usually not worth the effort. Concentrate
on the fronts instead.
Q:What are the benefits of steel braided brake lines?
A:The reports I have received is that it improves brake
feel marginally (less expansion of the tubes) but that
the steel is also subject to more corrosion.
[According to Volney.Spalding@Corp.Sun.COM]: They are not
recommended for street use. Reason: Lines are rigid and
will not flex with the body as it turns and reacts to
road imperfections--rubber hoses will. As a result, the
lines can often get pinched and fail. Stainless lines are
OK in racing applications because race cars are subject
to constant inspections/bleeding/maintenance. If there is
an alignment problem it will likely be discovered. Most
people probably are not as disciplined in street
applications making the this mod impractical.
Q:What pads should I use?
A:See the discussion in the technical FAQ and also in the
archives. It is important to realize that "race pads"
(e.g., Ferrodo, to some degree, REPCO Metal Masters) only
work well when HOT, and are therefore not well suited for
calm city driving. You WILL slide through your first
intersection in the morning with these pads.
>>>>VOLUNTEERS>>>>????? Needed: diagnosing problems
TIRES/RIMS/SUSPENSION
Q:I want to improve the handling of my VW? Where should I
start?
A:Start reading back issues of EuroCar & VW Performance
books. It all depends what you want and for what purpose
(street, autocross, etc). In general people follow the
following road to better handling: Tires and rims,
shocks, sway bars,stress bars.
Tires & Rims:
-------------
Probably the biggest single improvement you can make is
by changing the stock tires, and in some cases the stock
rims. It all depends how much money you have, and what
you have as stock equipment. If you want to keep your
original rims go to a stickier tire in the stock size.
Next step up is a wider tire with a lower aspect ratio
for the same rim, e.g., 165/80-13 to 175/70-13 (this is
called plus ZERO).
To make a more significant impact, you will have to
change rims (but be aware that it may put you into a
different auto-x category). Generally, you go with larger
rims (in diameter) with lower profile tires (=> less tire
flex => better handling) and also with wider rims (=>
more sidewall rigidity) and wider tires (=> larger
contact patch on dry roads, more hydroplaning on wet).
Most FWD VWs are made to be run with tires around 1816 mm
circumference, so each time you go to another combination
you try to stay within a few percent of this
circumference so that your gear ratios and speedometer
readings remain the same. Odd as it may seem, rims are
still measured in inches eventhough the rest of the car
is metric...
The upgrade gategories are called PLUS ONE, PLUS TWO,
PLUS THREE, and so on, with each "+" referring to an
additional inch in rim diameter starting from a 13" rim
as a base. Note therefore that many of the VWs you buy
nowadays are already at +1 or +2.
Here's M. Sirota's extensive list of NOMINAL sizes.
Actual sizes vary (note the c-program to generate these
are in the archives):
Spec. Side Radius Diam. Circumf.Revs/Mile Difference
wall
BASE:
155/80-13 124mm 289mm 578mm 1816mm 886 0.0%
165/80-13 132mm 297mm 594mm 1867mm 862 2.8%
PLUS ZERO:
175/70-13 122mm 288mm 575mm 1807mm 891 -0.5%
PLUS ONE:
185/60-14 111mm 289mm 578mm 1815mm 887 -0.1%
195/60-14 117mm 295mm 590mm 1852mm 869 2.0%
205/55-14 113mm 291mm 581mm 1826mm 882 0.5%
PLUS TWO:
195/50-15 98mm 288mm 576mm 1810mm 889 -0.4%
205/50-15 102mm 293mm 586mm 1841mm 874 1.3%
PLUS TWO (MUD AND SNOW):
185/55-15 102mm 292mm 584mm 1836mm 876 1.1%
PLUS THREE:
225/40-16 90mm 293mm 586mm 1842mm 874 0.0%
Going from 165/80-13 to 205/50-15 will make an enormous
difference, however going from 195/50-15 to 205/50-15
will provide less of an improvement (see other FAQ).
There are also additional factors to take into account.
The first is that tires can only be fitted on rims with
certain rim width limts and secondly, there is a limit on
how wide a rim AND tire will fit on your car to avoid
rubbing with the struts/shocks and fenders. The last is
that you also need to get a rim with the correct offset.
These are all explained further below:
TIP: [From Roy Kao] DON'T SKIMP OUT ON CHEAPER TIRES!! An
investment
in good mags is useless with cheap tires.
Q:What are the rim width ranges per tire size?
A:The rim ranges per tire width (from a Euro-Tire's
Catalog) are:
TIRE RIM RANGE Diameter
185/55-15 5"-7" 23.03"
195/55-15 5.5-7 23.43
195/50-15 5.5-7 22.72
205/50-15 5.5-7.5 23.11
Q:What is the largest rim/tire sizes that will fit on my
VW?
A:It depends from model to model. Also, make sure you get
the right rim offset or your handling may degrade.
Scirocco I:
Front: 185 or 195 mm wide depending on model Rear: 205
mm (?) Max Rim: 15"x6"
Scirocco II: 205?
Rabbit I:
205/60R13 will fit fine.
Rabbits/Jetta: Usually > Scirocco!
GTI I:
15x7.5 will probably work, depending on what tire
you choose.
Golf/Jetta II:
215/45R15 fits, at least on a GTI with flared fenders.
15 x 6 & 195/50/15 fit also, =? GTI/GLI GTI/GLI: 215?
Corrado:
Lower rim limit are 15" rims due to brake calipers,
16x7.5" rims with 205/45/ZR16 work fine.
Tire limit =? 225
EuroTire sells 15" steel rims for mounting snow tires.
17" rims may rub and require to roll the fenders
Passat: ?
A3 Golf (EC March 1994):
7x15, 195/50 or 205/50, 35mm or better, 38 mm
offset.
16" rims: 16x7.5 with 205/45-16 or 215/40 R16. 225
are TOO large.
17" rims: too easy to bend a wheel
Remember, offset is very important in determining tire
fit!
>>>ADD MORE ENTRIES>>>This needs to be improved [jan]
Q:What is rim offset? [D="EinpressTiefe" or "ET" Value]
A:The distance between the rim's center line and its
mounting surface. From the picture below it should be
obvious why it's important to retain proper offset when
you change rims: tire not centered properly affecting
drivability (negative roll radius changes), bearing load,
rubbing on the struts or wheel arches, etc.
The standard rim offsets are:
A1 & A2 = 14" rims are all 38mm
A3 = 6"x14" rims require 45mm (?)
Cross sectional view of a rim:
Center Plane
|\____+____/|
|_____.____ | Street Side of Rim
. //
. //
. || Mounting Face
. ||
>--< Rim Offset
NOTE: Apparently a deviation of a 5-8 mm does not seem to
be too critical according to [Nick Cremelie].
Q:What are the "standard" VW wheel offsets (the amount the
rim is offset from the hub)?
A:Rim Offset [From TomH, unverified but probably correct]
13x5 45 mm
13x5.5 38 mm
14x6 38 mm
15x6 35 mm (BBS 1-piece, # 165 601 026 091)
15x6.5 33 mm (BBS 2-piece)
Q:What is the proper tire inflation for my car for
performance driving?
A:For performance driving things are a bit differently from
normal inflation pressures because there the aim is to
reduce tire flex and to adjust the over all handling
characteristics of the car. Generally, in an autocross or
a ralley you will be running at a much higher pressure
than normal. One of the old tests is to put chalk marks
on the side of the tires, go around the track, and check
how much the tire has "rolled" under (i.e., how much flex
caused you to scuff the sides of the tires).Note -- this
only works on "street" tires. The sidewalls on
competition tires are just too stiff for the chalk
technique to work -- you need to use a pyrometer and a
stopwatch.
where@maple.circa.ufl.edu on chalk:
Typically speaking, If you run street tires when you
autoX, you'll want to bump the pressures up from what you
run on the street, but ONLY for the time you're racing.
When your racing day is done, bleed the pressures back
down to reasonable street pressures, and drive home.
Many of the autoXers I've talked with run "race tires"
while they race. They bring them in the trunk and take
them home in the trunk, and only run them around the
track. WHY? because these guys run racing slicks, and
everyone knows that racing slicks will KILL you if you
run them on the street and it decides to rain. If that is
not enough, you can be written a citation by the police
for running "bald
tires" if you are caught running slicks on the road...
Ok, now if you're still not sure how much pressure to run
in your street tires, ask someone who has a nice
(professional looking) AutoX car out at the track.
There's some sort of formula relating to a set of chalk
marks that you make on your tires. You "chalk the tires,
make a run, and analyze the chalk marks". If you find
someone who has raced several times, they'll usually be
nice enough to explain it to you, and help you out.
Contrary to what some may think, If you are just starting
out autoXing, the veterans are actually VERY willing to
help you out and explain things like tire pressures and
driving techniques. Most of them would talk your head off
if you wanted to listen that long, they're a really
friendly bunch from what i've found. The rationale for
explaining things to novices is to shorten the time that
it takes to get the car tweaked, so that you can spend
more time behind the wheel perfecting your driving
technique. Afterall, it's driving technique that really
makes the difference, They'll tell you that. :)
fisk@cvdv99.mayo.edu (Tom Fisk | 751 Siebens | 6-4261):
OK...there are several ways to determine proper tire
pressures for autocross. The scientific way says that you
run a few circuits and then check your tire temperatures.
The temperatures should be even from the outside, middle,
and inside of the tires. If the tire is warmer in the
middle, then your tires are OVER-inflated. Warmer on the
edges means that they are UNDER-inflated. If you get
variation from one side to the other, than that means you
could adjust your camber (+ camber if the inside is
warmer than the outside) and visa-versa.
For novice drivers in FWD cars on street tires, I would
recommend starting at 40-45psi in the front and 30 in the
rear. With experience, this will change. Novices need a
little more up front than experienced drivers, because
they always turn the wheel too far and never unwind
properly on the way out of a corner.
On the '87 GTI 16V with 218 or 206-compound BFG Comp T/A
R1's, I ran 36 in front and 22 in back. Note that these
tires require MUCH lower pressure than street tires.
Q:What are examples of proper tire inflation autoX?
A:Examples of pressures used:
[Jeffrey M. Mayzurk] On my DSP Scirocco (2300 lb, 55/45
distribution), I usually run with the fronts at around 38
and the rears at 30. This is plenty of pressure to keep
the tires from rolling over, and I like theway it
handles.
jstulen@eis.dofasco.ca (James Stulen):
I run an 84 Rabbit GTI (ok, it's not quite an SLC) with
some mods, on 185/60/14 RE71S tires. I use 36-38 in the
front, some time as high as 40 if they're scrubbing to
much. I use 26-30 in the back, any more and they just
don't 'work', very tail happy then.
Q:How can adjust over/under-steer behavior of my car?
A:From Jeffrey M. Mayzurk and also the APS catalog:
More Understeer More Oversteer
(less oversteer) (less understeer)
decrease front tire pressure increase front tire
pressure
raise rear tire pressure lower rear tire pressure
increase front swaybar diameter increase rear swaybar
diameter
decrease rear swaybar diameter decrease front swaybar
diameter
less front camber more front camber
increase rear camber decrease rear camber
increase front shock stiffness increase rear shock
stiffness
decrease rear shock stiffness decrease front shock
stiffness
(Note: 'camber' above refers to NEGATIVE camber.)
BIG NOTE: The above refers to conventional wisdom.
HOWEVER, A1 & A2 VWs benefit tremendously from a thicker
front sway bar to reduce understeer due to camber
changes. See the section on sway bars!
Q:My VW lifts its rear inner wheel in sharp turns. Is this
normal?
A:Yes, all VWs do this. [From drbob27@aol.com (Drbob27)]
The reason VWs do this is that VW minimizes front wheel
drive understeer by making the rear roll stiffness much
greater than the front. When the car rolls, the back is
so resistant it picks up the inside rear. The sway bars
(actually the ratio of front/rear roll stiffness from
bars and springs) CAUSES the wheel to lift. Porsche 911s
used to lift the inside front for the same reason
(reversed). It's one of the reasons people hold VWs in
high esteem as responsive, while similar cars are cited
for understeer. I used to race a Scirocco Showroom Stock.
In a corner, the mark of a truly excellent turn was to
pick up the inside rear smoothly to 4-6 inches and hold
it there steadily through the turn. Less competence
showed if the wheel bobbed up and down.
Q:Are VW rims interchangeable?
A:Most VW rims are interchangeable, and it may provide for
an inexpensive upgrade from you stock steel rims to used
stock alloy rims of an other VW. The exception are the
Corrado G60 and the SLC which both require a rim with
minimum 15" diameter; the Jetta GLI/GTX 16V (and I think
Passat) require a minimum 14" rim, while all other VWs
will take 13" rims.
VW uses five distinct bolt patterns:
5/180mm (?) Early air-cooled
4/130mmLate air-cooled
5/130mm (?) Transporter/Vanagon
4/100mmWater-cooled
4/100mmWater-cooled
5/100mmVR6 models
The standard rims will also work on any car with a 4-bolt
100mm hub. These include Honda (some models), BMW (3-
series, 2002...), Omni GLH, Mazda (Miata and possibly
others), and any Audi 4-bolts before they switched to
108mm.
NOTE: Check OFFSET and center opening before attempting
swaps! VW hubs *MUST*BE*HUB-CENTRIC*. This means that the
hub opening of the wheel must fit the wheel hub snugly
enough to center the wheel. THIS IS IMPORTANT!
Note: The center hole of a Honda rim is too small to fit
on some VWs, and the offset is wrong.
Q:What are the current preferred tire choices for VWs?
A:It depends on what you want from a tire...Performance?
Long Life? Good dry cornering? Wet weather handling? Snow
Tires? Race? There is no single tire that will give you
everything.
This list is not intended to be an exhaustive list, but
just a very brief summary of people's top choices. It's
primarily geared towards watercooled FWD VWs, and
therefore may not be applicable to other types of cars.
For more info see the very lengthy faq.tires.survey.
Normal
------
Definition: A mix of city/highway driving on dry & wet
roads. Desired Characteristics: All round predictable
handling & braking, long life.
Bridgestone
Comp T/A HR4 M&S (?)
Snow
----
Definition: Used for driving on snow and ice covered roads.
Nokia Hakkapelitas (sp?)
Gislaved Frost
Perfomance
---------
Definition: Higher speed driving, high cornering forces,
summer tires
Dry Only:
Yokahama A008
Dry & Some Wet:
Dunlop SP8000 (replacement of the D40/M2) - Good but take
a while to wear in
Bridgestone RE 71
Yokohama AVS Intermediary
Bridgestone Comp T/A 3
Michelin MXX3, XGT-Z or XGT-V
Uniroyal RTT1's (radical tread)
Race
----
Definition: Special purpose race tires (i.e., shaven,
slicks, mud, ...)
Hoosiers
BF Goodrich Comp TA R1 - 230 compound
Call (800) RACE BFG for info and
purchases
Bridgestone RE71R or RE71RAZ (autox, call Blackburn Racing,
Indianapolis (800))
Yokohama A008 RSII (autox)
Toyo Proxy RA-1 (autox, call GT Int'l, West LA)
Michelin ?Ralley? (the *only* real mud tire).
Comment from Mark Sirota:
>From: chrub@CAM.ORG (Chuck Rubin)
> Looking for some advice on tires for use in Autocross
(Solo2) in Canada
> competition on my 1990 Corrado. My friends are using
Toyos, Yokos and
> RE71s on their CRX's and Civics but noone is racing a
Corrado. My car's
> got Eibach springs and a Neuspeed rear antisway so
it's quite stiff.
The short answer is that what works well for one
car generally seems to work well for other similar
cars -- so since your friends are driving other
front-drive sedan-type cars and their tires work
well, they'll probably work well on your car too.
Out here, the BFGoodrich Comp T/A R1 230-compound
seems to be the tire to have. That's officially
the road racing compound, but this past week at
the National Championships in Salina, I pretty
much decided that they're all around better than
the 226 autocross compound, except perhaps on very
short courses or in very cold weather. The next
choices are the BFG 226-compound, or the Yoko
A008RSII. I know that the Toyo is a very popular
tire in Canada, but almost nobody uses it here.
It just can't hold a candle to the BFG and Yoko.
I don't know if you get a different version of it,
or a different version of the Yoko and BFG, or
what...
Since your car is stiff, another possibility is
the Hoosier Autocrosser. This is a very
lightweight bias-ply tire, which has tread and is
DOT- approved. However, don't even think about
using it on the street. It is not very puncture-
resistant (not much better than a slick), and
won't last long. It only works well on cars with
good camber control (stiffening a production car
is often good enough), and with wide wheels. It
drives *very* differently, being bias-ply -- you
need large slip angles, but the thing really
sticks in sweepers. It's not as hot in
transients. You need much more steering lock and
a lot more faith in the car, as well as the
aforementioned stiff suspension and wide wheels.
The incredibly light weight also helps in the
power department and on bumps. I don't know if it
is available in Canada, but you can try calling
Tom Reichel at Mid-Atlantic Motorsport in
Maryland. Tell him I sent you. His number is +1
410 825 6003.
I used to run my GTI and 914 on BFG's, and now run
the Formula Ford on Hoosier slicks.
Note from Ed: Check with the club's regulations on
which tire sizes are acceptable for the group you
want to run in. Often, to run in an auto-x stock
class you need to stick with the stock sized rims,
however you may change the tire sizes. In that
case you want to get the widest and least tall
tire (i.e., lowest aspect ratio) that fits. If you
are allowed to change rims, then you want to get
the rims with the smallest diameter but widest
that will fit (top speed is not important in auto-
x) with the widest and least tall tire. This will
lower your center of gravity but also provide you
with a better acceleration. Naturally, for street
use and other types of racing you other wheel and
tire combinations may be needed.
It's also a good idea to have your tires shaven a bit to
smooth out the outer shoulder.
Another issue to consider with racing tires is what rim
and tire size to get. For example, in stock auto-x class
you have to use the same rim size as OEM, but you are
free to use any size tire that will fit. For auto-x it is
therefore recommended to get the smallest diameter tire
that you can find. This will lower he car and provides a
bit more low end torque on the road, tires that heat up
quicker, less wheel/tire weight because top speed is not
an issue. If you are racing in SP class, then the
smallest (but widest rim) that will fit with the
appropriate tires is what you want.
Q:What are "standard" (factory) tire sizes for my VW?
A:The following tires sizes (see the r.a FAQ for how to
read these) result in equivalent circumferences and
standard on most passenger VWs over the years. The
implication of this list is that in principle (if you
have clearance!) you could upgrade your tire/rims by
traversing this list! The whole aim with changing to
different tire sizes is to stay within a reasonable
margin of the original tire diameter.
155/80-13 => Rabbit (1975-1978), Golf Diesel, maybe other
A2's
165/70-13 => Rabbit (1979-1984)
175/70-13 => Scirocco, Jetta, Rabbit GTI, optional for
Rabbit, most non- performance A2s, A3 Golf
185/55-15 => GTX (16V Jettas in Canada), 16V GLI
185/60-14 => Golf GTI, Jetta GLI (85-87) Carat (86-89),
Jetta (90-93), Scirocco 16V, A3 Golf
195/60-14 => Quantum, Passat, A3 Golf
205/55-14 => Golf GTI 16V (1987-1989)
195/50-15 => Golf GTI 16V (1990-), Jetta GLI/GTX 16V, Passat
GL (1991-)
195/50-15 => Corrado G60 (1991-1992)
205/50-15 => Passat Syncros G60 (1991 +), Canadian 1991
Passat GL
205/50-15 => All VR6 models; 5-bolt rim
215/50-15 => All Passat VR6 models; 5-bolt rim; 6" rim
Some non-factory combinations are:
205/60-13
215/45-15
Q:Will wider tires help my performance?
A:There is no straight answer! There are really three main
factors that determine handling (disregarding suspension
changes for now): 1) Frictional coefficient between the
tire and the road, 2) Contact patch size and geometry, 3)
Tire sidewall stiffness. If you keep the frictional
coefficient constant as well, you have two parameters to
play with: Width and Sidewall stiffness. Wider tires will
change the contact patch from an oval to a more elongated
oval, which generally improves handling, but increases
steering effort, and makes the car more prone to
aquaplaning (hydroplaning) in wet weather and in snow it
never gets to through the snow. In snow conditions the
best way to go is small rims (13" for A1 & A2) with a 165-
175/70/13 tire on it.>>>ADD MORE PROPERTIES??? However,
another, perhaps more important factor is sidewall
stiffness. The stiffer the sidewall, the less the tire
will flex sideways which improves turning, transients,
steering accuracy >>>OTHERS? Therefore going from a
175/70-13 tire to a "plus 1" 185/60-14 or a "plus 2"
195/50-15 tire will elongate the contact patch, reduce
the sidewall height ==> increase side wall stiffness and
therefore improve handling. However changing from 185/60
to a 195/60 may or may not do much good: The contact
patch is more favorable but the sidewall is also
increased in height ==> more flex. Test by VW and EuroCar
have shown that a GTI with 185/60 tires handles about the
same as one with 205/55. But there is more to it as well!
Tires, even within one type & size, may have different
sidewall stiffness (e.g. HR vs VR), and compound! A
softer compound will grip better, but wear faster.. Wider
rims make a big difference due to a better lateral
support, effectively increasing sidewall stiffness. NEVER
use 5.5" on a 185/60 or wider tire; the wider the better,
at least within reason. A 7" rim would probably be ideal
for a 195/50R15 tire for the street.
From Roy Kao: wider tires may make a marginal improvement
in transient cornering responses, but how often do you
make radicalattitude changes on the street?
In summary [From Mark S]:
Cost: worse
Ride quality: worse
Tramlining: worse
Handling quickness: better
Handling limits: better
Safety in standing water, mud, or snow: worse
Looks: better (imho)
Steering feel: probably worse
Braking: can't say for sure
Power application: probably worse
A lot of the above depend on tire choice, too. Note that
choice of tire will have a much much larger effect than
changing wheel size on handling. Alignment also has a
huge effect, as does tire pressure.
Q:What is a performance alignment?
A:A performance alignment means a little more toe out than
stock, for better turn in, and more negative camber than
stock, for obvious reasons. I wouldn't recommend it.
Unless you plan to devote you life to autocross (and
people do) you will not notice the difference.
This will however result in much quicker street tire wear
so you will have to balance this with your desire for
autocross. I would suggest getting everything else right
before you start worrying about alignment though.
However, call Eurotire for details about having a car
aligned to Andy King's specs. The mild neg. camber does
not show up much on the tire edges.
Note from Jan: this needs work. A performance set up can
be achieved w/o sacrificing tire wear by increasing
caster angle, which unfortunately is not adjustable on
most VWs.
See also the archives on alignment.
Q:What does toe-in, caster and camber mean and how do they
affect the car's handling?
A:This is borrowed from the "alignment" archive:
CAMBER:
The camber angle is the angle a tire makes with respect
to a vertical line.
Positive Camber = Tops of tires point outward. If you
look at the front of the car you'd see:
V
FRONTAL VIEW __ ( ) W ( ) __
Tire \ \ ---------- / / Tire
-- --
Too much positive camber ==> Tires wear on the OUTside
(away from the car) more than the inside.
Negative Camber = Tops of tires point inward.
Too much negative camber ==> Tires wear on the INside
more than the outside.
Camber affects directional stability and tire wear. A
difference between the front wheel camber settings will
cause your car to pull to one side. I also believe it
will cause torque steering to become more noticable. It
is therefore very important to keep camber for BOTH tires
as close as possible.
Your car will also perform differently with different
camber settings. For street use, follow manufacturer's
setting, for race use, use more negative camber
(basically so that the inboard tire will be flat on the
road in sharp curves). Naturally, more negative camber
will wear the insides of the tires quicker.
Note however that the terminology used is often very
confusing, here is a sample (for either a GTI or Scirocco
I think):
>--<
[Jan]
> Camber = -.17 to 0.83 Degrees; which seems to imply
that they want > positive camber (tops pointing AWAY).
That doesn't sound right.
> To make matter worse, in Greg Raven's book, when he
talks about
> 2.5 Degree Camber he means NEGATIVE camber = / \. Can
someone please help
> me out with this one?
[Mark]
Right. Negative camber helps cornering power and turn-
in. The reason that they recommend positive camber is to
ensure understeer for the "average" driver. At the end
of last season, I had settled on about 2.2 degrees
negative camber while I was autocrossing.
>--<
The rear camber is not normally adjustable on most FWD
VWs.
TOE:
Toe = distance between the front of the tires and their
rears.
Sometimes express by an angle instead.
(Negative Toe) = Toe OUT = distance between the front of
the tires > rears If you were to look from the TOP:
Front
================== Bumper
TOP VIEW __ __
Tire \ \ / / Tire
-- --
(Positive Toe) = Toe IN = distance between the front of
the tires < rears
Unlike the camber settings, the individual toe of each
front wheel is not as critical (because of the steering
mechanism), but the TOTAL toe is (Toe = distance rear -
distance front of tire). Usually only one side is
adjustable, which then results in the "crooked" steering
wheel problem.
For the rear wheels the individual toes are however
important. If that's off, your car will be driving "side
ways". But you do not have to worry about it because the
rear toe is not adjustable on most watercooled FWD VWs
(w/o special equipment).
Too much toe in or toe out will also wear your tires
prematurely. The wear pattern is called "feathering" and
it will show up as a slanted wear or zig-zag accross the
tread of your tires. If you were to take a cross section,
you'd see something like (a bit exagerated due to the
limitations of this format):
_ _ _ _ _
TIRE CROSS SECTION / |_/ |_/ |_/ |_/ |
| |
Also here things get a bit confusing:
>--<
[Jan]
> The specs for Toe are even more confusing: -15'+10' = -
.25 + .17 Degrees.
> I assume the "+" is used instead of a "+/-" which
results in:
> -.25 to -.08 degrees, a slight toe in, which is more
what I'd
> expect. (Greg Raven however recommends 1/8 inch [yes,
inch] of toe OUT).
[Mark]
Right. So negative is toe-in. The only car on the
market today that comes from the factory with toe-out is
the Acura NSX. Toe-out also helps turn-in, but does
increase tire wear and gives the car a little bump steer.
It may also wander a bit on the highway. I was running
1/8" (yes, inch) of toe-out during the autocross season,
but now I'm running zero toe.
The reason that toe is often given in inches is because
it's much easier to measure that way.
>--<
CASTER:
Caster = The angle your wheels pivot about wrt to the
vertical when you steer (= the angle of front
struts/shocks wrt to the vertical?).
__
/ \ SHOCK TOWER
SIDE VIEW //|
// | angle
STRUT //
O Wheel axle
Affects of caster: It keeps the wheels running in a
straight line and causes them to straighten when coming
out of a turn. Increasing caster also provides better
handling w/o the tire wear.
Too much caster causes hard steering, too little causes
your car to wander. Caster settings do not affect tire
wear.
If you look at a car from the side, caster is the angle
the front strut makes with a vertical line, similar to
the fork on a bicycle. When you turn, the axis of
rotation of the wheels is not perpendicular to the road,
but rather at an angle:
V
FRONTAL VIEW __ ( ) W ( ) __
TURNING LEFT Tire / / ---------- / / Tire
-- --
The result is that the tires "brace" themselves against
the cars sideways movement ==> better cornering! I
believe this is one of the reasons why a Corrado SLC
(with > 3 degrees of caster) feels more stable in a
straight line, and corners better than a G60 (with ~1
degree of caster) if you ignore the softer springs and
shocks of the SLC.
Caster angles are not easily adjustable on most A1-A3
VWs. So if some shop tells you they did, question their
abilities... Note: Still under investigation! By changing
the subframe to that used on an SLC, a greater caster
angle can be achieved. More drastic changes involves
moving the shock towers.
Shocks:
-------
VW shocks don't last very long (30-50k miles). The OEM
shocks are from Sachs or Boge (note: they merged in 1994)
and similar to the Boge ProGas shocks. Stiffer shocks reduce
roll, improve handling but also make the ride harsher. Most
competition & longer lasting shocks are called "gas shocks"
because they contain a gas filled chamber that keeps the
shock oil under pressure. This pressurization prevents
cavitation and foaming which increase wear and reduces the
shock's effectiveness.
A compromise to using stuff shocks is to use adjustable
shocks. Most popular competition oriented shock brands are:
Koni & Bilstein (debatable which is better), then Tokico.
From M.SirotA: For non-competition, I'd rank them Bilstein,
Sachs, Boge, Koni, KYB (initial quality problems), Tokico
(harsh).
A note from ND's BBS: We have had many problems with Tokico
and do not sell them anymore except for some of the jap
cars. They use to have the worst warranty claim problems.
They had a plating problem on the shafts and would turn down
warranties saying customers were using vise grips on the
shafts. Now I have seen what vice grip marks look like as we
do get idiots who do that but these were a manufacturer
defect. So we decided not to sell them anymore. Koni,
Bilstein, Sachs and Boge have very good warranty procedures
and we will continue to offer them to our customers.
[Note: Tokico Illuminas have reliability problems and a
particularly painful failure mode, but the non-adjustables
are probably fine.]
From M.SirotA: Koni makes three types of shocks: Red,
Sport Yellow, and Sport/SS. The Reds are the softest,
Yellow are next, and Sport/SS is the stiffest. The "SS"
stands for "Showroom Stock", as in the racing category. The
Sport/SS shocks are usually also yellow. Bilstein makes at
least two: The HD (Heavy Duty), the Sport and the Race.
The Sport is the stiffer one. To complicate matters
further, not all versions are available for all
applications, at least not off the shelf. And old shocks
can be revalved, or new custom ones can be made.
As with engine modifications that can be measured on a dyno,
suspension is very subjective as what may give you the best
lap time at the race track may make you VW slower on a bumpy
mountain road. That is why each persons driving habits and
location of most of their driving is so important to a
proper selection. Many VW owners autocross in addition to
regular street use and they may sacrafice comfort to have a
better handling car on the track.
From the AutoTech Catalog:
Shock valving comparison chart
OE Soft Race
Stiff
------------------------------------------------------------
-
[]
[< Tokico HP >]
[< Tokico Illumina Adj >]
[< Bilstein Sport >]
[Bilstein Ralley/Race]
[< Bilstein Race
>]
See also the archives on Suspension_Mods
Sway bars: (Anti-roll bars)
---------------------------
Reduce side to side roll. Essentially they increase the
spring rate when you turn, but leave the bilateral
compression rates unchanged. This also means that ride
comfort is hardly affected, in general a win-win situation.
Most newer VW have sway bars, but aftermarket ones are
stiffer (thicker) and are attached better. I personally
prefer sway bars that mount in almost stock positions (e.g.,
VW, Neuspeed, AutoTech) because they are easy to install and
do not require major modifications. There are other bars
made by H&H and Suspension techniques that have gained some
following. The general recommendation is to change the rear
sway bar first to reduce oversteer, or to replace them both
simultaneously. More recent sentiment has shown that for
certain cars (Corrados) the front camber changes are
significant and a front roll bar is the first to change
rather then the rear. Always keep in mind the racing
regulations in this regards.
From M. Sirota:
Conventional wisdom says that this is a good thing. A
bigger rear sway bar will move the handling more towards
oversteer, and will also help in putting the power down
on the way out of corners because it will help to keep
the inside front tire planted. However, empirical
evidence for A1 & A2 VWs shows that a big front sway bar
helps quite a bit, probably because it pays big dividends
in limiting camber change. A big rear bar might do the
same, but I've never tried it since I only raced my VW in
Stock category, and it wasn't legal to change the rear
bar. In short, on an A1 or A2 VW in Stock-category
autocrossing (where you are not allowed to change the
rear bar), run as big a front bar as you can find.
[At a later date he adds]: Talk with any SCCA Solo II
autocrosser who runs a VW successfully in the Stock
category. In Stock, you can play with the front bar but
not with the rear -- and the secret is to run as much
front bar as you can. Makes the car MUCH MUCH MUCH
faster, *and* easier to drive. It's a big win. This is
a well-known fact. If you're not racing, or you're racing
someplace where it's also okay to change the rear bar,
then I can't offer any particular advice -- except that
you need more roll stiffness than VW provides, for sure.
In an ideal world, we'd only have one sway bar, and it
would be in the rear for a FWD car. However, in reality,
we almost always use two. If you could change everything
else (suspension type, pickup points, spring rates,
damper rates, geometry, corner weights, ackerman, roll
centers, CG positions, and a host of other things) you
might be able to design a perfect system where a rear bar
only would be a good thing. However, this is generally
impossible on production cars, and so we end up using two
bars just so that we can reduce roll without completely
screwing up the handling balance. As a side note, I use
both bars on my Formula Ford, too. I find that even
though I can tune it to be neutral with just one bar, it
feels much better in transients with two, probably
because the roll *rate* is more similar at both ends that
way. And I think they use bars at both ends even on
Formula One cars.
Stress bars:
------------
Stress bars reduce body flex by connecting either the top of
the free standing shock towers, or by connecting the
mounting points of the "A" arms. A1 VWs are in most need of
a lower front stress bar, while all A1 & A2 VWs could
benefit from an upper strut tower stress bar. (A2 cars have
a lower subframe and therefore do not need a lower stress
bar).
The advantage in installation of Neuspeed stress bars over
the Autotech bars is that you are not required to work on
the inside of the wheel well. The Neuspeed bar comes with
these "nutserts" that essentially create a thread in the
shock tower to bolt the bar to. The Autotech bars, as I
recall, require you to put nuts on the bolts from the inside
of the wheel well (they do claim to be a more positive
structural connection, which may be so). The Neuspeed bars
have also been superb quality and finish-wise.
Sporttuning tip from AutoTech: One warning sign of excessive
chassis flex is stress cracking of paint around the upper
front strut towers. This may eventually lead to the shock
towers breaking through. Stressbars can eliviate this
problem while also reducing chassis movement.
The rear upper shock tower stress bar is mostly for
*extreme* race purposes. Robert Collins (see archives)
argues that the rear stress bar is pure hype.
The effect of a stress bar is somewhat subtle, and does not
always translate in a significant performance gains. Both
the lower and upper front sway bar have subtle effects. The
cars feels "calmer" there seem to be fewer vibration
transmitted, and the car feels more confident in turns.
Springs:
--------
Springs don't normally wear out. However, there are
competition oriented springs that usually also lower the car
or progressive rate springs that offer a soft ride for
normal cruizing but non-linearly stiffen up as they are
compressed.
One of the things to keep in mind is that springs and shocks
need to be matched to some degree or ride may suffer. Most
engineers are probably familiar with the equations of a
spring and damper combination. Depending on the selected
spring and damping constant (and mass) the combination will
either be underdamped, overdamped, or oscilatory. Using
sport shocks with stock springs may not always be the best
combination, nor may sport springs with soft shocks.
Sporttuning Tip from AutoTech: Do not cut or heat sag
springs to reduce ride height because it does not increase
spring rate increasing the chance of bottoming out and the
chance to damage the chassis. The problems associated with
these modifications include broken strut housings,
misalignments, and broken windshield due to body twist. Heat
sagging also causes the spring material to become brittle
reducing the life of the spring. Stayaway from bargain
springs that use substandard wires.
**WARNING**: Suspension changes will affect the way your
car handles, especially under emergency maneuvers. Therefore
it is highly advised that you familiarize yourself with your
car before you use it in normal traffic conditions. Taking a
performance oriented driving class sponsored by one of the
car clubs is therefore highly advised.
>>>THIS NEEDS TO BE IMPROVED/REWRITTEN A BIT. SUGGESTIONS?
KEEP it short....
BODY/INTERIOR
=============
Q:How can I make my car quieter? What kind of sound
insulation is available?
A:There are a variety of products available on the market
that you either glue on the car's inner body panells or
spray into cavities. These products are available from
either car audio stores, or electronic stores. Do shop
around because price varies alot.
The effects of this insulation varies with the type of
material used and how and where it was installed.
Generally, the more you cover up, sometimes even doubling
up in certain areas, the greater reduction in noise. It
will also improve the sound quality of your car due to
the fact you have lowered the resonance frequency.
VWs generally produce most of their noise in the engine
compartment, followed by the entire exhaust system, the
wheel wells (rear), and after that it's probably a toss
up whether your doors or your roof makes the most noise.
For the more recent models, VW actually did a fairly good
job at insulating the car, however, there is always room
for improvement.
Start with the easily accessible areas that have bare
sheet metal, and that sound "tinny" when struck. Most
people start by insulating the trunk floor, rear wheel
wells, the spare wheel well, and underneath the rear
seat. Those areas are right above the muffler or the
wheels with little or no insulation. In my Corrado G60, I
noticed a reduction in buzzing coming from the rear. The
car is now noticeably quieter in the rear versus the
front, while previously it was about the same. Some have
reported results up to 10 dBa reduction, which is rather
significant (a 3dB reduction = 1/2 the noise).
If you are more ambitious, go underneath the carpets as
well. However, depending on the model of the car, VW
probably beat you to it already and it's unclear whether
it'll make much of a difference.
The next areas to treat are harder. If your car does not
have foam underneath the hood, add it. Next try
insulating the fire wall, but be aware that that area
gets very hot and you need suitable materials for that
area.
The top is like a bloody drum, in some respects, and
anything done here to deaden it or change the harmonic
frequency helps. Note that the foam insulation that vw
uses deteriorates after a period of time, especially the
headliner.
Cut the mats to size, than pull of the adhesive cover and
stick it to the body panel. Some products require a heat
gun (hair dryer works too) to establish a firm bond, or
to get the material sufficiently pliable. Some apply
additional glue, such as 3M "Spray 99 adhesive" to get a
good bond.
Probably the most popular product in the USA is that made
by Dynamatª. Other brand names are AccuMatª by Scoshe
Industries, and Damping Putty which you squeeze into
cavities that buzz. Both Dynamat and AccuMat sell a
variety of types, the thin sheets are generally for
covering body panels, the thicker for under carpets, and
a high temp mat/foam sheet that can be used in the engine
compartment. Other brand names are: Kentamat, Sonex, a
foam padding, designed much like the walls of an
anechoic chamber, available in various thicknesses and
densities, and used to deaden or absorb sound in rooms,
chambers, or instrument areas.
Dynamat is some kind of asphalt sheet with glue on one
side, while AccuMat is made out of latex and the thicker
ones out of foam. Some speculate that Dynamat is nothing
more than Bitumen roofing paper, and therefore any dense
material would work. Some have had limited success with
using asphalt roofing material such as "Elastophene Flam"
which is an SBF membrane roofing material (it's black,
heavy, fireproof, 1/8" thick and relatively cheap) or
simple vinyl floor tyles which the AccuMat thin product
resembles.
I have used the thin sheets from both Dynamat and
Accumat, and they both have pros and cons. Accumat costs
more, adheres better but does not dampen as well. Dynamat
does not adhere well at all (unless you use a heat gun or
spray on adhesive), dampen better than Accumat
(subjective opinion) but out of the box, Dynamat STINKS
majorly. Applying this fresh dynamat over a surface that
get hot (i.e., above the exhaust system) will noticeable
smell up your car. The problem goes away over time, but
it's better if you leave the sheets to bake and air out
in the sun for a couple of weeks. Dynamat does sell a low
oder version, but that's even more expensive and smaller
than their regular sheets.
Q: Is moving my battery to the trunk a good idea? What
effect will it have?
A:[From Jeff Mayzurk]: Yeah, it's a great idea. I did it in
my Scirocco and was very pleased with the results. Before
you do it, though, take your car to a local truck stop
(or any other certified scale) and get the weight for
both axles, and then compare afterwards so you can figure
out how much of a difference it made.
In Greg Raven's "Water-Cooled, Front-Drive Performance
Handbook," he discusses the effects of moving the
battery on weight distribution. In his example, moving
the forty pound battery (mine weighs 38 lbs.) to the rear
moves the center of gravity back only 1.9 inches, but has
a much larger effect on weight distribution.
In my car, I bought a $10 plastic battery box, about 20
feet of 2-ga wire, and a few battery terminals. It's
mounted right behind the rear seat on the passenger side,
and is grounded at the right-rear seatbelt mount
(underneath the cushion). I ran the positive cable along
the doorsill, underneath the carpet, through a grommet in
the firewall, and to the alternator. After adding
additional engine-chassis ground cables, I've had
absolutely no problems with charging.
Holes can be drilled through the floor of the trunk
inside of the battery box between the battery box wall
and the battery. Make sure nothing is in the way below
the floor of the trunk when you drill the holes.
If you know your car extremely well, you will notice the
difference right away -- I did. You have the be really
sensitive to your car's behavior in transitions, but the
difference is there. My car rides better and dives less
under braking. Handling feels just slightly more neutral
overall, but traction under full throttle in low gears is
more of a problem now. (This is the only drawback I can
think of, and is definitely something to consider if you
have a very light car with a strong motor.)
By the way, make sure you have some provision for holding
the battery down in the event of a rollover. If your car
ever gets upside down (god forbid), you don't want that
forty-pound weight flying around in the cockpit.
NOTE: Relocating the battery may put you in a different
auto-x category!
MISCELLANEA
===========
>>>> SUGGESTIONS/COMMENTS/CORRECTIONS? send e-mail to above
address
Contributors (not exhaustive):
------------------------------
Note: Quoted contributions imply possible conflicting pieces
of advise with other contributors.
See the lists in the other FAQs.
mgm@royko.Chicago.COM (Marty Masters)
Blake Sobiloff
jay.mitchell@the-matrix.com (Jay Mitchell)
Jonathan Dove
jstulen@eis.dofasco.ca (James Stulen)
Jeffrey M. Mayzurk
drbob27@aol.com (Bob April)
welty@balltown.cma.com (richard welty)
e0ewqbwu@tuzo.erin.utoronto.ca (Roy Kao)
(Bob April)
Michael R. Kim
priest@flame.engr.sgi.com (Ed Priest)
rchambers@aol.com (RChambers)
ptong12@ursa.calvin.edu (Peter Tong) '82 2.0 8v cabby --
highly modified
TURBOTIM at ND's BBS (Tim Hildebrand)
lindi@monk.bose.com (Matt Lindi)
cmhewitt@mtu.edu (Chad Hewitt)
harry@alsys.com (Harry Kimura @ignite)
donald@sq.sq.com (Donald Teed)
mbernier@aol.com (MBernier)
Bryan D. Boyle bdboyle@erenj.com
whong@ida.org (William Hong)
Michael R. Kim mrkim@uci.edu
a-mikem@ac.tandem.com (Michael McKay)
soo@bmerh989.bnr.ca (Wei Soo)
chrub@CAM.ORG (Chuck Rubin)
cocw@hk.super.net (Mr Chun Wong)
monster16v@aol.com (MONSTER16V)
MICHAEL H. CHIN"
------------------------------------------------------------
--------
Disclaimer: My employer has nothing to do with this. Use any
info in this posting at your OWN risk. This is public
information and should not be dissiminated for profit.
--
-----------------
Jan jan@lipari.usc.edu
