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Oil Changing & Maintenance Discussion
| Question: |
"I would like to know what's involved in fixing up my oil system, without getting too technical." |
| Answer: |
"Kick back, and let's discuss." |
| Level of Difficulty: |
Easy, but patience is required. |
Intro:
Just so I know we're all on the same page when it comes to changing oil, here's a list of how it should be done. Lord help us if you don't already know this.
Precautions:
- Car should be cool and turned off.
Items needed:
- Socket set or metric wrenches with sizes between 17mm & 21mm
- clean rag
- New drain plug bolt (p/n:)
- New drain plug gasket (p/n: N 13 849 2)
- 2 x New oil cap gaskets (p/n: 059 103 487)
- oil filler cap (p/n: 026 103 485A)
- oil filter wrench (bring along oil filter to size at parts store)
- oil catch pan (get one with a top on it. Oil splashes)
- oil filter (p/n: 056 115 561G, Mann brand, or equivalent)
- 5 quarts/liters oil (synthetic)
Discussion:
If you are first attacking your oil system, or you are unsure of what's been used in the past, etc., then you may want to follow the procedure outlined below. It should clear up any unknown issues with oil changes of the past and keep you moving in the right direction. New gaskets should be used everywhere, even going so far as to "double up" on the oil filler cap gasket, preventing leakage from the cap. While you're at it, you may as well grab a new drain bolt and bolt gasket for the oil pan, as these get funky over time. Take the time to get yourself a nice oil filter wrench, so you aren't looking for sandpaper at midnight when you can't get the old filter off with your oily hand. The oil used should be the best synthetic you can find (Mobil 1 or Redline come to mind) in the grade that you think you need. Some people use 20w50 in the summertime, as this gives more protection, but is thick as molasses in cold weather. Others (like me) use 15w50, as it gives the best protection over the widest range of temperatures, and keeps those lifters from clacking. Still others use 10w30, as this heats up quickly, and protects when you are driving around town. Each grade has downsides. Check out this picture to identify what temperature range you fall into. Do not use oil additives, as they are crap, no matter what you hear. But, do what you want.
Procedure:
Take off oil cap on cam cover
Position oil catch pan under oil pan drain plug
Unbolt drain plug
Go grab a beer and wait 20 minutes for complete drain
Wipe away excess old oil from around hole
Move catch pan under the old oil filter
Loosen oil filter with oil filter wrench
Go grab another beer and wait 10 minutes for complete drain
"Prime" new filter by pouring a few oz of oil into filter and rubbing oil around gasket
Screw on new oil filter, hand tight
Put new drain plug & new gasket back in (Torque to 12 ft/lbs, if possible. "Tight, but not too tight" if you cannot.)
Clean oil cap, while installing new gaskets
Insert funnel into oil filler hole
Pour in required amount of oil (4 quarts), put 5th quart in trunk for oil burned/leaked over next 3k miles
Screw on cap tight
Start car and let it run for 5 minutes
Check ground and cam cover for leaks
Drive for 30 minutes around town, re-check for leaks
Moving Forward/Wrap-up:
From now on, it's recommended by Audi to change your oil drain bolt gasket every time. Those things take a lot of abuse and you should care whether they function or not.
You should check your oil level every few hundred miles (remember, this is an older car) and do a complete change (including filter) every 3000 miles. The synthetic oil manufacturers say that you can stretch this to 24,000, but why take chances?
Following this procedure should enable you to say "I've done it right" when you are finished, and as long as you continue putting high-quality synthetic and an OEM filter in your car, it should last forever.
