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The "Real" Window Regulator Fix

Question:	"When I push the button for the window to go up, it just makes a grinding noise."
Answer:	"Break out your ratchet, and grab a friend, because it's time fer a window fixin'!"

Level of Difficulty:

Medium

Time:

1-2 hours

Pictures:

Picture of window regulator

Another picture of window regulator

2 rear and 1 front regulator

ETKA picture of front regulator

ETKA picture of rear regulator

Admit it, the thought of being able to do your own car work is exciting. The knowledge that you can save yourself some cash, all the while learning how to screw, align, bolt and lube everything in sight, makes you randy as hell. Well, it does for me too, but this fix is pretty boring and takes awhile.

Parts Needed:

Ratchet with full metric socket set.
universal "twist" joint, to get around obstructions.
extra extension for universal joint.
Phillips' head screwdriver
Contact oil
Dielectric grease
Bearing/Heavy grease
Flashlight
Duct tape

Problem:

Window regulators need lube. Repeat this to yourself, "Window Regulators need lube." Good, very good. Now, as this applies to you. There are a few different signs that your window regulator is dead or dying, and they all need different fixes:

Window is slow in rising or lowering.
Window grinds while going up or down.
Window stops completely in its' path.

Fixes:

First of all, the first thing to do is to give the window a break. Get some duct tape (green is good) and get the window back to its' original "closed" position. I don't care how you do it, as long as you don't pull too hard on the window. If you feel you're hurting the window, you can wait until we unbolt the window while we're fixing this thing. In any case, keep some duct tape handy.

Window is slow in rising or lowering

(Fix) You still have time! You'll need to pull apart the door panel as described below, unbolt everything, pull the window regulator out, and lube the hell out of the track that the cable slides on. Then you can just put the regulator in, and bolt everything back up. Don't worry, this will make sense when you see it.

Window grinds while going up or down.

(Fix) A real crap-shoot on this one, how loud it grinds, and why it grinds are pretty much unknown at this point, but I don't think you'd be out of line by either ordering a used regulator from a reputable junkyard, or even a new one from the dealer. Do NOT order an aftermarket one unless it has been absolutely confirmed to work.

Window stops completely in its' path.

(Fix) There are two real possibilities on this one:
        A.) The switches sending the signal are dirty or non-functional.
        B.) The window regulator cable is mangled.

        - Either way, you're looking at some work.

Go down to the switch section to see how to fix your switches.
If the cable is mangled, call the junkyard or dealer, that puppy is toast (unless you follow this guy) and you'll have to cut in a new regulator.

Switches:

Switches get dirty and corroded, not quite as bad as something outside, but just from age. So, as with any switch that gets corroded, you'll need to clean it and lube it.

Remove switch by jabbing firmly with stick, or mop handle. Do not break.
Remove wire pig-tail from back of switch.
Clean all contacts with contact cleaner, and then lube with Dielectric grease.
Replace switch.

If this doesn't work for you, begin looking for broken wires behind switch and follow them as best you can to the door jamb. Check at door hinge by prying off rubber boot and checking for anything loose or worn. If you still see no problem, you'll have to go inside the door.

Taking Things Apart:

Pay attention to where everything goes. You can even go so far as to have a box with multiple slots for the tons of different sized nuts, bolts and screws you'll be pulling out of this door. Best I can figure, there's upwards of 21 little pieces you'll be yanking off, so follow this process carefully and use common sense:

Unscrew door lock/unlock knob. 1 piece.
Unscrew black plate covering side mirror mount. 1 screw.
Unscrew armrest. Screws go up at weird 30 degree angle. 2 BIG screws.
Swing armrest upwards toward door jamb 'til you reach 160 degrees from your starting point. Pull off.
Unscrew door basket at edge. 5 or more screws.
Pry out ruil you reach 160 degrees from your starting point. Pull off.
Unscrew door basket at edge. 5 or more screws.
Pry out rubber dongle in cup of door handle. Be gentle.
Unscrew door handle. 1 screw.
Pull door panel away from door, plastic no-thread "bolts" are the only things holding it in.
Have friend hold window steady while you unbolt top of regulator from bottom of window. 2 bolts.
Unbolt bottom bolt, goes through bottom of regulator. Hard to do. 1 bolt.
Unbolt regulator motor from sheet metal. 3 bolts.
Pull regulator out of panel. It's possible, just don't crimp the cable. Should look like this.
Cut wires close to motor if replacing with new or new-used regulator.
Lube regulator going back into door with heavy grease. I used bearing grease. Apply as much as possible.
Splice and solder wires if necessary. Heat shrink to protect.
Reinstallation is the reverse of removal.

Discussions:

The following is a email correspondence with Tom Chudzinski about this very same problem:

Brendan: Yes: I've fixed three out of the four regulators and all the switches on my type 44. All with different problems and different fixes.

I bought a replacement cable from a bike shop to replace the one cable that broke. After rewrapping it (real pita the first time) it seems to be working fine. I used the heavy duty cables that are for tandem bikes. There are several different gages of cables.

Another regulator broke the plastic spring loaded sleeve that holds the cable/spring in tension against the winch(2 locations). The cable came off the winch and off the pulleys, then the regulator locked up. To fix it I bought a 1/4" fuel line (galvanized steel) 12 inches long with flare nuts on each end. Cut the line to length and remove the nuts. It fits perfectly into winch mechanism and is much stronger than the plastic sleeve it will replace. When you cut the fuel line to the length of the smaller diameter(about 2" long) on the plastic sleeve(broken), the flare will hold the tension spring and the larger nipple that holds the outer sleeve (usually still intact) for the cable can rest under tension only against the flare on the fuel line. It provides a little flex in the cable right where you need it. It's been working fine for several years.

I also found a screw drive regulator from a 91 100 (updated design) for my drivers door window. With a few easy mods, it bolts right in.

It also helps to pull the armature out of the motors, clean the commutator, clean and grease the bushings. I use cv joint grease. Water can drip down from the windows inside the doors and it looks like it sometimes drips through the motors. I had one armature that was burnt black that I replaced. I think the PO had a kid who sat in the back seat and loved to roll the window down and hold the switch in the down position after the window reached its travel limit. I pulled the rear switch apart and it looked like it was marinated in Pepsi/Coke Someone needs a dope slap! There is a thermal breaker in the system but it acts too slow to outwit persistent brats.

Tom Chudzinski

Brendan: on my type 44 window regulators, I found the grinding noise comes from the cable being off the correct alignment track inside the spool mechanism of the winch. When this happens the cable gets wrapped incorrectly and doesn't feed smoothly in and out of the winch(grinding and creaking). I think this happens because one of the strands in the cable breaks(from wear) and bunches up inside the winch or the tension on the cables gets too high because the cable and tracks lack lubrication. Or the tension gets too low because the plastic spring loaded sleeves that direct the cable into the winch break(lack of lubrication). The cable will also creak if it comes off the upper or lower pulleys at the ends of the window track on the regulator assembly.

This is what I've found, but I didn't want to put that down as the only possible cause because it's extremely hard to visualize without pictures, which will be going up soon. I HAVE found that once this happened to me, it was nearly impossible to fix, as the weakened cable broke soon thereafter from increased stress. I bought a used one and it worked like a charm...

In any case, if you hear grinding, the regulator needs to come out and the winch drum needs to be taken apart,(the sooner the better) lubed, and the cable needs to be properly rewrapped and tensioned to get the unit to work reliably again.

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Page last updated: April 28, 2003